UP SD40X 3046

[Deleted]

Mark (udername deez) has in his signature line a photo of UP SD40X 3046. Question about this unit.

Is this an SD35 chassis, nose, sub base and cab with a GP40 clean air room and long hood and SD40 DB hatch? Is that basically what makes up this locomotive?

[Deleted]

OK, I think I got it now.

UP SD40X #3046

AN SD35 locomotive with a GP40 radiator core which means GP40 Grills and fan hatch. Also GP40 raised dust bin and inertial filter intake screens.

So take an SD35 and replace the radiator fan hatch and grill with GP40 style. Replace flat dust bin with raised GP40 dust bin and replace inertial intake screens with GP40 screens. Seems pretty basic.

I need to build one in N-Scale to sell so I can generate some cash flow for the GP35m builds. I have everything I need to build it. I am thinking pan top DB and radiator fan grills.

[deez]

Brian I'm actually building 3046 & 3047 right now. They are pretty much SD35's wit a 40 series radiator hatch and grills. Please take note though of the dynamic hatch it is different at the end that points to the radiator. These two units are unique in this area as it is more pointed than broad like the SD35's. Also, when UP took delivery of these 40X's, like allot of their standard SD40's they were fitted with FARR type radiator grills. I took the Cannon & Co SD39 FARR grills and lengthened them. This works for 3047 quite well. 3046 however has FARR grills that are slightly different. The clean air room, cab, nose & all doors are the same as an SD35. These are the easiest SD40X's to build I think. Ill post my units when I get home soon.

[Deleted]

Unfortunately for N-Scale, there is no substitute for FARR grills. I will use the corrugated grills from a GP40-2 to get them as close as I can.

Brian

[Deleted]

I've got the fan hatch on. Next up is to remove the SD35 radiator grills and install the new grills. Then I only need to install the fans and 40 series turbo hatch.

When did the UP 40X's get repainted to the large lettering on the side. I want to model thus unit as early 1970's. I would like it to have foot boards. I have some really cool photo etched ones.

[deez]

I have alot of UP motive power books. Ill check on that paint scheme when I get back home. Early 70's should be the smaller letters with the "Dependable Transportation" on the cab.

[deez]

Brian, in 1978 3046 was changed to large lettering with the UP shield on the cab. Durring the 70's up to 78 it had the smaller lettering with "we can handle it" on the cab.

[redneckwes]

Watching this with interest, I'm planning on building a "Retro" version in HO based on a 70's vintage SD35 and GP40. Wont be to modern day standards obviously.

[Deleted]

redneckwes,forget the GP40. I thought I would go that route also. No need. FOr HO, just get yourself a Plano GP/SD40 fan hatch, some Cannon fans and a set of Cannon FARR grills. At least for a UP version that is about it for a quick build.

[deez]

Here's the main modified section of UP 3047.

Notice the rear of the dynamic blister is more pointed. I had to custom carve & shape this from the original form. It's not too hard. Both 3046 and 3047 are pointed like this on their dynamics.
Also the Cannon & Co. SD39 Farr grills extended to the size of a standard SD40 rad. grill. I used the late style SD35 shells also with the high dust bin and late intake grills.

[Deleted]

Mark,

What I find interesting is the Atlas N-Scale rear DB taper is as you explain. It is a sharper angle than what is on the HO model. I did not have to make that modification.

For HO, I am pretty sure you want to use the Atlas SDP35 DB hatch. I just looked it up and it does have a shorter and sharper angle on the rear DB hatch. I am convinced it is the SDP35 hatch you want to use for the SD40X. Also the Atlas SDP35 DB hatch has the notch in it for the radiator fan hatch. The rad fan hatch WILL slighlty overlap the DB hatch.

[deez]

Brian, if you use an SDP35 db hatch the taper would end at the last engine door. If you look at 3046/47 the taper clearly ends past the last engine door. You need a modified SD35 db hatch to make that taper. Just like I did on my HO model. An SDP35 hatch would be too short.

[Deleted]

OK, I see. Yes, I have been corrected. Thanks. I guess nothing is really ever that easy.

[deez]

Hey it would be as much fun if you didn't have to carve something up knowing if you screw up you need a new one also lol. I don't always like some parts of kit bashing but it excites me to know that I have to do it. Btw I'm taking your idea of building to generate cash. I have two extra phase 1b Kato GP35 which I will whip into 2 ICG GP28's. These are easy to build having no dynamics also. Fun builds and easy to make. The 2 rebuilt GP35 you are doing for the CSR have me the idea also. Thanks!

[redneckwes]

Brian,

Thanks, I plan to do that eventually, but as a W&LE 3046.

As a side project, I'm planning on building a small roster of "Retro" U.P. builds to run on one of the local club layouts.

I know it sounds a little odd, and severely limiting, but by my self imposed rules all the shells and detail parts have to have an origin that predates 1980. (I.E., no cannon parts, no narrow hood Athearn's, etc) It's as much a history project as anything.

I have what I need to build a pair of SD40X's Atlas(Roco)SD35's a spare GP40 shell and a junk Athearn SD45 to give up it's flairs.

[deez]

Wow Redneckwes, those limitations are painfull and seemingly unnecessary. Why you would want to torture yourself with inferior parts & shells is beyond me bud. I wish you lots of luck on your build but for me accuracy is a key element in building good models. I guess if they are just the "club runner" type you could use anything on hand. To me Cannon & Co is a blessing to HO scale modeling and should be taken full advantage of whenever possible lol. I do have admiration for those who built good models from fat bodies back in the days though. I've seen em on eBay and some are really good!

[redneckwes]

deez,

We live in a golden age for diesel detailing, (or at least it would be if local train shops were more common.) And I enjoy enjoy detailing as much as anyone does, If it's NKP or W&LE I'd never consider an Athearn fat body as a base.

I'm not a UP modeler, but I got to see the "Old" UP driving across Nebraska, I grew up like a lot of kids not being able to afford even Athearn locomotives, I'd read every diesel detailing article I could get my hands on. (Loved the .25 back issue at train shows!)

I've been collecting blue box Athearn stuff here and there, just looking for a reason to tie it all together. I guess It's as much of a living history project as anything. No layout, just an equipment set for club running, Union Pacific in Nebraska ca 1970-75. I'm setting the detail clock to December 1980. (I've got the Walthers catalogs for reference.)

I think I'm good enough to build the models to convey the era, and the whole thing won't cost as much as one or two new full out projects. (Minus all the decoders I'm gonna need!) Plus most of it I either have, or I can get inexpensively.

It's got a "Tinplate" aspect to it I guess, filling that club layout with old Atlas and Athearn power, Switching the yard with a set of TR5's while an ABBA of GP9's slides by with a local. F9M's, SD24's SD40X's & SD45's. etc.

[sgoti]

Nov 1, 2013 13:15:59 GMT -5 redneckwes said:

I have what I need to build a pair of SD40X's Atlas(Roco)SD35's a spare GP40 shell and a junk Athearn SD45 to give up it's flairs.

Not to rain on your parade, but the old Atlas/Roco SD35 locos had some dimensional errors that cause some difficulties...

However- It's always fun to see what others are able to do when they set their minds to it.

Please keep us up to date on your progress and post photos!