SCL
Engineer
Pulling for you!
Posts: 49
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Post by SCL on Jan 6, 2009 17:15:21 GMT -5
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Smoke
Chairman
The Ski Train!!!!
Posts: 753
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Post by Smoke on Jan 6, 2009 17:42:25 GMT -5
I have not done this either but am planning on doing the same thing on my next project. I have asked around and this is how people have gone about it. You mark the top and bottom of where you want the light to be. Then take a file and file away the flat notch in the nose. Once that is doen you can either file away the angles part of you can cut it with an X-acto. Filing seems much easier and a better way to keep yourself from screwing up.
Good luck!! -Andrew
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SCL
Engineer
Pulling for you!
Posts: 49
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Post by SCL on Jan 6, 2009 18:34:14 GMT -5
I have not done this either but am planning on doing the same thing on my next project. I have asked around and this is how people have gone about it. You mark the top and bottom of where you want the light to be. Then take a file and file away the flat notch in the nose. Once that is doen you can either file away the angles part of you can cut it with an X-acto. Filing seems much easier and a better way to keep yourself from screwing up. Good luck!! -Andrew Wow! That simple eh? I can't believe I didn't think of that.. Well, as soon as my order of Details West parts arrives I'll put it to the test! ;D
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liengineerbob
Chairman
Sitting at my workbench trying to figure out what to do next!
Posts: 335
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Post by liengineerbob on Jan 7, 2009 17:10:21 GMT -5
I myself found it easier to cut the angle portion of the nose cut-out with a brand new single edge razor blade. When I try and use a file or #11 knife, it always comes out crooked (especially with a file). I slice off a little bit at a time until it is the right size.
Just another idea for you to try.
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Post by stillbre on Jan 9, 2009 15:36:59 GMT -5
Frank, As an L&N modeler, I've had to put dozens of these in. Its not difficult, just takes a little time and patience. I use the same method as already mentioned, and just file the notch. I mask off the location where the light will be to keep from marring the surrounding plastic. I have a set of jeweler's files that has a flat file almost exactly the same size as the light housing. Take your time when filing. File a little and test fit the light. Keep doing this until you're happy with the results. Since I use Cannon noses and cabs on most everything, I used the old noses that are being replaced as practice.
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Post by stillbre on Jan 16, 2009 14:03:00 GMT -5
Stephen, Directly related to this topic, I have a pair of ex-L&N SD40s and an ex-L&N GP40 on the bench right now. I haven't started putting the headlights in the nose yet. I haven't had much time to work on them lately. I can take some photos when I get to that step.
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Post by stillbre on Jan 20, 2009 9:15:51 GMT -5
Took a couple in-progress photos of my L&N SD40 last night. This is my second of two SD40s that I'm working on right now. Originally it was to become L&N 1225, the first order for the railroad, but will now become a CSX 4600-series unit. It started as a Kato factory painted GM&O model. This image is just to show where I started removing the small casting nubs on the bottom of the walkways. First attempt at embedding photos so hopefully this will work.
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Post by stillbre on Jan 20, 2009 9:33:25 GMT -5
Next step was to remove the step wells and pilots to be replaced with Railflyer parts. Then added the frame rails to strengthen the walkways.
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Post by stillbre on Jan 20, 2009 9:36:44 GMT -5
I'm using the Atlas GP40 long hood for the basis for my SD40 long hood. This is the Atlas long hood roughed out. So far I have cut the long hood end off but still need to be cleaned up to install the Cannon long hood end. I have also removed the inertial filter/clean air room to later kitbash it with Cannon parts.
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Post by stillbre on Jan 20, 2009 9:39:29 GMT -5
And a couple images of the dynamic brake blister. Still need to add lift rights and clean up some glue joints. Started with an Atlas SDP35 blister; added Cannon fans exhaust stack and extended range doors; then filled the cut out at the rear with styrene. Its a snowy day here in North Carolina today so I'll probably try to get the cab and nose built tonight for this unit. I'll post pix when I can.
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Post by stillbre on Jan 20, 2009 10:51:28 GMT -5
Thanks Stephen. What did I do wrong on the links?
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Post by stillbre on Jan 20, 2009 14:27:44 GMT -5
Think I figured it out now. I was pasting the wrong link.
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Post by Randy Earle on Jan 20, 2009 14:47:58 GMT -5
Looks good so far Josh.
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Post by stillbre on Jan 21, 2009 14:01:19 GMT -5
Since I've kinda hi-jacked this thread I figured I'd get it back on topic. Since we had a little snow on the ground yesterday, shutting down the city, I made a little progress on my SD40 after work. I cut the headlights into the nose and took some photos to share. Just as a disclaimer, I don't have a good place for model photography so some of the color is off. Also, these are in-progress shots. The nose still needs a little clean up. I forgot to take pictures in the beginning so some of the photos are going in reverse. That being said, here we go. I like to mask off the area before filing to help protect any details on the nose. The bottom of the headlight notch should be at approximately the same level as the grab iron locations. The first piece of masking tape should just cover the lugs on the Cannon nose.
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Post by stillbre on Jan 21, 2009 14:04:00 GMT -5
The top strip of tape should split the class light openings down the middle. Its a little hard to see in this photo. Also, if I had my druthers, I'd much rather use blue "painter's tape" as the masking tape I used left residue after removal. Its just all I had yesterday.
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Post by stillbre on Jan 21, 2009 14:06:47 GMT -5
Next, using the headlight casting as a guide, position the vertical strips so they leave just enough room for the headlight. I also used the masking tape to hold the nose to my work place so it didn't move while filing.
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Post by stillbre on Jan 21, 2009 14:10:41 GMT -5
Luckily, I have a file that is the same width as the height of the headlights. Makes things a lot easier. Carefully file down the tip of the nose until your headlight fits. Test fit as you go. Looking back at the finished model, I should've filed the spot on the nose a little wider. There should be a slight lip on either side.
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Post by stillbre on Jan 21, 2009 14:12:31 GMT -5
I use a straight razor to cut the angled portions above and below the headlight before installing the headlight.
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Post by stillbre on Jan 21, 2009 14:14:54 GMT -5
The finished nose. The right side of the nose should be plain since the L&N SD40s didn't have hand brakes.
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sarge
Chairman
Posts: 1,132
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Post by sarge on Jan 21, 2009 16:44:44 GMT -5
Nice work Josh
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