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Post by iomalley on Sept 13, 2013 22:13:57 GMT -5
Well, this is a weird one... I bought this Bachmann SD45 years ago, but the cab looked horrible, so it was a permanent resident in my "go to the swap meet" bin and has been out on the table for the last 3 or so years...no takers. Anyway, Brian Banna was recently looking for an Atlas GP40 longhood, so I sent him the one I had, but lopped off the NW hinose for future use. On Wednesday night, Mother Nature dumped 25mm of rain in a couple hours and my back porch sprung a small leak, which just so happened to funnel into the swap meet bin in the closet underneath. The water wrecked a couple boxes of junk, and the SD45 as well. The model was dry, but the foam and box needed drying out. Anyway, I placed the model on the desk, eyed the recently removed hinose, grabbed a Kato cab and subbase from the parts box and voila! The start of SOU 3141!!!   With some applique parts, and the new cab, the Bachmann should make a good stand in...I'll keep ya posted!! Now to get some CanSeal and tackle that back porch!! |
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Post by icghogger on Sept 14, 2013 9:29:30 GMT -5
Good Start, Sean!!
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sgoti
Chairman
Posts: 459 
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Post by sgoti on Sept 14, 2013 15:56:41 GMT -5
Ha ha! Funny how things work out- That's great!
Looking forward to seeing in-progress and finished photos!
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Post by iomalley on Sept 16, 2013 21:47:22 GMT -5
Well, some progress... This model is not that bad, if I had a mill, I would correct it by shaving 0.050" off the deck height. It sits too high, maybe 3 scale inches above an Athearn newer RTR SD45, and 8" above a Kato SD40. There are errors in the longhood, like too thick batten strips and a weird air room door, but me'h...it was only $30. The trucks look really good, but the brake cyl's aren't 'connected' to anything. I had to fill the right side holes for the long hood end grabs, and added various SOUesque details. The long side handrails are very good and I'm going to use them...they don't even have the shrinkage problems that cause some stanchions to lean. The rest of the handrails will be bent from 0.019" brass wire. It's ready for paint! I have to get some flex black for the handrails tho...    |
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Post by bbrunell on Sept 17, 2013 4:18:52 GMT -5
Sean, who makes the walkway lights you are using? Cannon makes under frame lights, but they are plastic. Those you have chosen seem to have some type of mount as well. This is a great project. I'm only sorry it took your porch leak to get started!
thanks,
-bill
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Post by iomalley on Sept 17, 2013 10:00:36 GMT -5
The plastic ones over the rad are precision scale, the pair by the dyn brake are Rsaza custom finishing, and the one on the short hood is a details west one I skewered with some 015 wire into the side.
The Rsaza's are ridiculously priced at $8 a pair, but these were clearance for $4....still steep...
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dtinut
Chairman
Modeling the DT&I of the 60's & 70's
Posts: 661
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Post by dtinut on Sept 17, 2013 16:30:39 GMT -5
Sean,
I built a southern SD45 using one of the older Bachmann models sometime back.
I used the high hood from an old Atlas/Roco GP38 for my hi-hood, and made a dynamic brake from some extra Atlas master series GP38 dynamics I had. I also lowered the frame so it sat at height I liked.
OMI used to have the walkway lights, soetimes these can be found on ebay.
Wrighttrak sells the MU stands.
Be sure to add the lifting tabs (not rings) on the long hood end.
I put Cannon fans on mine - what a difference!
I need to finish decaling the thing.....
Brian
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Post by iomalley on Sept 17, 2013 18:59:13 GMT -5
Wrighttrak eh, thanx for the tip, but I might try scratching a pair...
Too bad I wasn't in your neck-o-the-woods, I could use your mill expertise. My milling guy is a hack!
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Post by markj on Sept 21, 2013 19:57:44 GMT -5
Sean,
Your model looks great! When you talk about milling 0.050” of the deck height, exactly what do you mean? Would you mill the metal frame or the plastic shell? I own several SD45s from Athearn, Kato, and Bachmann, but they are in storage so I’ve never placed them side-by-side to notice the height difference.
Not to misdirect your post, but I’ve heard (and read on this forum) that the Proto SD45 shells are the most accurate in both detail placement and dimensions. I’ve also read that the Kato shell has inaccurate ends (grab iron placement is off?) and you need to replace both the short hood and long hood ends with Canon parts to correct the problem. I’m not sure if there is anything incorrect on the Athearn/RPP shell, but I’m assuming the new tooling by Walther’s would be more accurate. What’s your opinion? Since Walther’s recently announced a new run of SD45s, I’ve been contemplating getting one.
Thanks, Mark
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Post by iomalley on Sept 21, 2013 21:50:53 GMT -5
The deck sits too high compared to the Kato SD40 I have for reference. I would mill it off the frame. The deck is max thinnest. It is a Bachmann, and a cheap build so I'm not too concern of uber accuracy...it was just something kicking around, that floated to the top for some attention.  I would probably agree with your opinions on the Proto versions, but I never liked their flat looking sideframes, so I steered clear. I'm by no means an authority on SD45s, especially SOU ones, I just like to add this to my NW high hood collection. Update! Some tuxedo black! Can't wait to snap the cumberbund on it!  |
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Post by iomalley on Sept 25, 2013 21:31:50 GMT -5
Quick question, does anybody have a cab shot of 3141 that shows the suffix letter? I picked 3141 cuz it had a NW style horn, but neglected to get good side phots of it before decalling one side. D'Oh!!!  Any help would be appreciated! |
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Post by hotshot3305 on Sept 26, 2013 12:44:14 GMT -5
Quick question, does anybody have a cab shot of 3141 that shows the suffix letter? I picked 3141 cuz it had a NW style horn, but neglected to get good side phots of it before decalling one side. D'Oh!!! Any help would be appreciated! The computer check letter should be "X". Bob |
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Post by iomalley on Sept 26, 2013 18:18:43 GMT -5
Perfect, thanks Bob!
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dtinut
Chairman
Modeling the DT&I of the 60's & 70's
Posts: 661
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Post by dtinut on Oct 1, 2013 21:42:49 GMT -5
Sean,
I got your email about wanting to mill the frame, but when I reply, it bounces after a couple days.
(maybe your in box is full, dunno?)
Anyways, how thick is the frame where the shell sits?
You said something about .050" needing to be removed...
If the frame is at least .080" than it should be doable.
Let me know - eh?
How's the bathroom project coming?
Brian
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Post by iomalley on Nov 10, 2013 14:45:06 GMT -5
Well big thanks to Brian (dtinut) for doing the millwork for me...closer to end game!  |
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Post by iomalley on Nov 24, 2013 14:29:27 GMT -5
A little closer to the weeds...thanks Bri!  |
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Post by NS91 on Nov 24, 2013 17:44:59 GMT -5
Looks great. This post reminded me I need to send dtinut my GP38 frame to have it milled.
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Post by hlcx4300 on Mar 13, 2014 21:58:39 GMT -5
This goes to show you, Even a Bachmann unit can look good if you are willing to put a little hard work into it. Great Job! ~ Daniel
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