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Post by NS91 on Mar 17, 2013 12:30:00 GMT -5
I've got some work done on my new kit, knowing my luck my old kit will turn up when I finish this one. I installed the grab irons on the ends, and the curved grab irons at the ends of the body. Mr. Harpe if you see this where exactly are the flag holders located on the photo etched sprue?   |
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Post by hotshot3305 on Mar 17, 2013 19:15:18 GMT -5
William, the flag holders are on the same side of the fret with the door handles and there are ten (10) of them on the fret. Also, please allow me to give you some instruction before you advance any further.
You need to add a section of .040" styrene, the same width and length as the end piece, between the end of the cab floor and the end piece. The roofs of these resin kits were molded about .040" too long and if this piece is not added, your end railings will not sit under the roof as they should. Also, be sure to mark the new section of styrene using the end piece found in the kit as a guide and then drill the holes in it so that your end railings will simply fall into place when it comes time to complete that step. You will also need to carve out for the coupler and brake clevis.
I can scan the end of my cab and show you if it will make it any clearer to you.
Bob
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Post by NS91 on Mar 17, 2013 19:21:34 GMT -5
William, the flag holders are on the same side of the fret with the door handles and there are ten (10) of them on the fret. Also, please allow me to give you some instruction before you advance any further. You need to add a section of .040" styrene, the same width and length as the end piece, between the end of the cab floor and the end piece. The roofs of these resin kits were molded about .040" too long and if this piece is not added, your end railings will not sit under the roof as they should. Also, be sure to mark the new section of styrene using the end piece found in the kit as a guide and then drill the holes in it so that your end railings will simply fall into place when it comes time to complete that step. You will also need to carve out for the coupler and brake clevis. I can scan the end of my cab and show you if it will make it any clearer to you. Bob Mr. Harpe, The scan would be a great help. I think I confused myself reading that. William |
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Post by hotshot3305 on Mar 17, 2013 21:37:03 GMT -5
William, here is a scan of the end and side of my caboose showing where I added the .040" styrene section.  |
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Post by analogbeatmaker on Mar 18, 2013 1:09:03 GMT -5
That's a great tip Bob...wish I had known that but it is far too late for me now. I made mine go straight up and the horizontal strip at the top of the railing piece is not flush with the inside end of the roof. I just thought that was how it was supposed to go. Oh well.
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Post by NS91 on Mar 18, 2013 4:36:19 GMT -5
Thank you Mr. Harpe. Do I need to drill the handrail holes in the platform or in the styrene?
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Post by hotshot3305 on Mar 18, 2013 11:24:51 GMT -5
Thank you Mr. Harpe. Do I need to drill the handrail holes in the platform or in the styrene? Drill them in the styrene piece that you're adding and use the end section supplied in the kit as a guide for the new holes. |
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Post by hotshot3305 on Mar 18, 2013 11:26:42 GMT -5
That's a great tip Bob...wish I had known that but it is far too late for me now. I made mine go straight up and the horizontal strip at the top of the railing piece is not flush with the inside end of the roof. I just thought that was how it was supposed to go. Oh well. Nick, I saw that you had progressed past the point where you could add the .040" section onto your model is why I didn't mention it to you. |
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Post by NS91 on Mar 18, 2013 15:30:59 GMT -5
Thank you Mr. Harpe. Do I need to drill the handrail holes in the platform or in the styrene? Drill them in the styrene piece that you're adding and use the end section supplied in the kit as a guide for the new holes. Thank you Mr. Harpe. Is the styrene .040 thick and wide? I will use the end from the kit to cut the styrene for the coupler and air line cut outs? Thank you for all of your help. William |
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Post by hotshot3305 on Mar 18, 2013 18:26:58 GMT -5
Drill them in the styrene piece that you're adding and use the end section supplied in the kit as a guide for the new holes. Thank you Mr. Harpe. Is the styrene .040 thick and wide? I will use the end from the kit to cut the styrene for the coupler and air line cut outs? Thank you for all of your help. William William, Find a section of styrene that is .040" thick and as wide as the end piece itself. As you can see in my photo scan, I did not use a full width piece of styrene and why I didn't, I do not know. Probably one of my senior moments I suspect. |
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Post by NS91 on Mar 19, 2013 18:51:12 GMT -5
Thank you Mr. Harpe. I don't have any .040 on hand so it will be this weekend before I can progress. I will get more #80 bits also.
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Post by hotshot3305 on Mar 20, 2013 8:35:56 GMT -5
Thank you Mr. Harpe. I don't have any .040 on hand so it will be this weekend before I can progress. I will get more #80 bits also. William, drill your original holes with a #80 or #79 drill bit, but I suggest that you go as far as drilling them with a #72 or #73 bit simply when it comes time to install your end railings, you'll want the railing fall into place rather than having to push them into place. One other item to remember, when completing your model, you will be handling it for a good bit of time to get the railings into place so keep in mind all of the details that are on the underside and also the windows and window shades on both sides. You'll also be surprised just how heavy, delicate and cumbersome this model becomes when it comes time to add the final details. Good luck!! |
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Post by NS91 on Mar 20, 2013 19:22:30 GMT -5
Thank you Mr. Harpe. I don't have any .040 on hand so it will be this weekend before I can progress. I will get more #80 bits also. William, drill your original holes with a #80 or #79 drill bit, but I suggest that you go as far as drilling them with a #72 or #73 bit simply when it comes time to install your end railings, you'll want the railing fall into place rather than having to push them into place. One other item to remember, when completing your model, you will be handling it for a good bit of time to get the railings into place so keep in mind all of the details that are on the underside and also the windows and window shades on both sides. You'll also be surprised just how heavy, delicate and cumbersome this model becomes when it comes time to add the final details. Good luck!! Mr. Harpe, so I need to drill a pilot hole with a #80 or #79 then drill a #72 or #73 for the end railings and the brake gear since I'm building a rebuilt caboose? |
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Post by hotshot3305 on Mar 21, 2013 8:32:04 GMT -5
Mr. Harpe, so I need to drill a pilot hole with a #80 or #79 then drill a #72 or #73 for the end railings and the brake gear since I'm building a rebuilt caboose? Yes, that's correct. The #80 and #79 holes will be too small for the end railings after the model has been painted and when it comes time to install the railings you do not want to have to force the bottoms of the railings into their respective holes. If you'll go ahead and drill the slightly larger holes to begin with, the railings should slip in place without any problems. |
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Post by NS91 on Apr 14, 2013 12:18:28 GMT -5
I got the toilet hatch installed and the flag holders installed. I'm waiting for the styrene for the end extensions to come in. I know the toilet hatch isn't exactly square.  |
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Post by sd45longhoodfoward on May 10, 2013 11:59:20 GMT -5
William looks good so far bud
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