Suggestions for Smokey Valley Handrail Installatio

[bbrunell]

All,

I'm finishing up a Reading and Northern SD50 and bought some Smokey Valley handrails.  I've never installed these and it looks like a bag of brass wire to me, lol.  Any suggestions or tips from anyone who has used these kits before?  Any help to avoid a major mistake would be appreciated.

Thanks,

-bill

[bbrunell]

After fighting with silly short sections of brass wire, I now see two things clearly - 1. the reason the stanchions are sold separately, and 2. why a poster said to throw the wire away and bend your own from the proper gauge wire!

Still open to suggestions though -

thanks,

-bill

[Packer]

Personally I re-bend the brass wire and have had good luck with that. I've bent a few bits from bras swire for my own too.

I soldered mine, using a regular weller 30w iron. But others seem to have luck CAing them to steel wire, or Caing then soldering. (I soldered them while they were attached to the model) What's funny is I soldered these really well, but I can't solder electrical wires for crap...

[bbrunell]

Thanks, I considered solder, but didn't want to chance it. I need to pick up some wire tomorrow and give it another go...

[stevef45]

what size wire is used in place of the ones from smokey valley?

[antlorch]

I have done many of my engines with SV stanchions and I always solder mine. Here is how I have done all them.

1) I cut each stanchion off the sprue and clean them up with a dremel tool and grinding disk (takes a little time and be careful not to over do it) or you can use a jewelers file. There are little tabs sticking off the back towards the bottom of the stanchion (side stanchions only) which I remove so the stanchion will rest flat against the sill.

2) I use a drill bit the same size as the pin on the stanchion and drill the holes larger in the body as most of the pre-drilled holes are smaller.

3) Glue the stanchions on straight with CA and let dry over night. You can do all of them or just one side at a time.

4) I use 0.012" brass wire for my handrails. I used to use 0.015" brass wire but after seeing Tony Scissons explain the size differences and how thick the handrail gets after paint is added I changed the size I use. Some actually use 0.010" brass wire but this is up to you individually.

I do my handrails in small sections as for me I can do my bends better and once the railings are soldered on they are just as strong as if it was one piece. I start with the railings closest to the cab and work my way towards the rear. There is no set length each section is just what I feel like doing at the time. Of course on the straightest part I try to use the longest piece of wire I can.

Once I have my bends like I want, I use drawings or the old handrail as a templete, I hold the wire to the stanchion with a little clip,




I use Tix Flux and Solder, I got these at my local hobby shop, put a clip on either side of the stanchion you are going to solder and put a little flux on the joint.




Then I add a tiny amount of solder to a hot iron and CAREFULLY touch the iron to the stachion for a split second and the solder should flow where the flux is. This takes a couple of tries to get the hang of it but once you do it goes pretty fast. Just again be careful to not touch the iron to the shell or get it to close for to long. I learned this the hard way.. Once

5) Once that section is complete I cut the wire off so that it sits on the next stanchion just half way. This allows me to but up the next section to it and the joint is soldered together and you cant tell it is not one piece.When one side is done I move to the other and then I do the ends last.

6)This is the end result...



I will add this. When I have bent one of the end corner handrails (front and back top pieces) I use that piece as a templete for the other three corners so they match. For some reason I am not good at getting them to match if I do one at a time and solder each as I go along. If you have any questions about what I have explained please feel free to ask. This is the way I do it, many others do it differently but this is best for me.

[brgp302300]

Speaking of Smokey Valley......I`ve sent an E mail twice in the past three weeks trying to find out the difference in some of their handrail sets and did not get a response.

[antlorch]

Larry will respond you just have to give him time. He does Smokey Valley out of his house and he does lots of other stuff but he will get to it.

[bbrunell]

These were helpful tips. I picked up some wire today and was able to get things moving. I have not soldered, but will definitely do that on the next set of these I put on. Even with CA, they are very strong and should hold up well. I love the hairclip idea. I was using some clothespins I have for making trees, but they are way too big. Like all things, you do a better job when you have the right tools and take your time...

[stevef45]

Ant, great quick write up. This will make my installs on those SD60's so much easier.

[stevef45]

where can you get those clips? having the opening in the middle seems to make it alot easier to dab the soldering iron to it.

[antlorch]

Well I actually got mine from my wife but I would think any place that sales hair stuff for women should have something that would work.

[c415rock]

Hi guys,

Antlorch'S method works like a charm. I have done it that way ever since I ask him about it. Like he said with time it will become easy. I got my clips from a friend who is a hair dresser. I looked all over for the clips and could not find them. So I would look to a hair supply shop or ask the wife and or grilfreind to ask there stylist for some.

Erik

[c415rock]

Hi Guys,

Here is a link to the soldering iron use. It is only 12 watts and heats up in 45 seconds and has a pencil point. It is made by Antex it is a industrial solder iron designed for small electronics. I use it for all my DCC installs as well as handrail installs. I also use this iron to solder magnet wires to 603 & 805 smt led's. It is a great light weight iron. If you buy one you won't be disappointed. I use the TIX flux and Kester electronic silver solder.

I have no affilation with any of these compaines. Just a very satifed customer. Plus Ngineering customer service is second to none.

www.ngineering.com/soldering.htm

Erik

[dR. T. dAmAgE PhD]

This is FANTASTIC info in this tutorial!...I'll definitely be in contact with you when I approach another EMD second generation project.

3:30 in the morning okay with you for a phone call Anthony?.........Psych!.....just kidding!

Really good stuff in this "how to" Mister!



GaRy

[bbrunell]

Gary, I'm honored to have someone from the Weathering Shop post on a thread I started, lol...

[dR. T. dAmAgE PhD]

Sept 2, 2013 0:32:04 GMT -5 bbrunell said:

Gary, I'm honored to have someone from the Weathering Shop post on a thread I started, lol...

Well @#$%^&*(&%$*!!!...Where's my manners?...

My apology is extended....Nice thread Bill!...thanks for igniting a great topic!


GaRY

[antlorch]

Gary if I was single it wouldn't be a big deal but my wife wouldn't like you at all if you where to call that early in the morning unless you where dying!!!!!

But if I ain't on the train I will be up by 7:30 in the morning most of the time. Between then and 4 in the afternoon is the BEST time for me.

Well gotta run getting on a hotshot to Houston.

[bbrunell]

No apologies needed. The DD is a great place to exchange ideas and get to chat with folks that are setting the pace, Gary...

-bill