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Post by twinstar on Jan 23, 2013 20:19:39 GMT -5
Group:
I'm a 1960's Rock Island modeler and I have a pair of P2K GP18's I'd like to add to the mix. Two questions:
1. Does anyone make plastic or photo etch grills to replace the rather large factory models?
2. Is there a readily available way to to re-motor these old units? The axles have been replaced but these seem to need a lot more current to get moving. They speed match in the mid to high speed step regime well but seem to act as boat anchors in the low speed schedules.
Thanks.
Jacob Damron
Ft. Worth
Republic of Texas
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Post by robdawg on Jan 23, 2013 21:11:36 GMT -5
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Post by twinstar on Jan 23, 2013 23:09:09 GMT -5
Robdawg: Thanks. I knew Keith was doing GP20 grilles as we talked about it some time ago but my memory was saying they weren't correct for the RI units. Whatever the case they're spot on now but out of stock. Maybe I can get some coming soon. The motor looks great. Got one on they way now! I'll have to post some pics as work progresses. Thanks again. Jacob |
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Post by CP_8530 on Jan 24, 2013 16:21:00 GMT -5
Jacob, unless you have a faulty motor (unlikely) you shouldn't need to remotor them. Most P2K locos run a bit slower because of the directional lighting diode circuit. Pull that out and hardwire the loco (and replace the 1.5v bulbs with 12v) and you'll find it runs about as quick as any Athearn or Atlas loco. This is as-is on DC, if you're installing DCC you'll be chucking the diode circuits anyway.
I've done this to all of my FA's, GP7, GP9, GP18 and GP30 units and have no complaints about speed after.
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Post by tpwillie on Jan 25, 2013 15:44:32 GMT -5
Jacob, The older P2K units used a very sticky grease that got worse over time. Take out the trucks and soak them in 91% Isopropyl alcohol. Then take the trucks apart and clean off all the old grease. Be sure to get the grease out of the worm bearings. Rebuild the units using Aero Car lubricants in very small quantities. To make them really run nice run them for a while with Pearl Drops toothpaste to polish the gears. Then start the alcohol soak.
Lou
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Post by twinstar on Feb 19, 2013 12:56:36 GMT -5
Jacob, unless you have a faulty motor (unlikely) you shouldn't need to remotor them. Most P2K locos run a bit slower because of the directional lighting diode circuit. Pull that out and hardwire the loco (and replace the 1.5v bulbs with 12v) and you'll find it runs about as quick as any Athearn or Atlas loco. This is as-is on DC, if you're installing DCC you'll be chucking the diode circuits anyway. I've done this to all of my FA's, GP7, GP9, GP18 and GP30 units and have no complaints about speed after. I've removed the diode, installed a TCS decoder, and replaced the lights with LEDs. I've also replaced the gears and the "peanut butter" with an actual plastic grease. This motor, in my estimation, is faulty. I have a replacement and will have to see how it goes. |
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Post by twinstar on Feb 19, 2013 12:58:03 GMT -5
Jacob, The older P2K units used a very sticky grease that got worse over time. Take out the trucks and soak them in 91% Isopropyl alcohol. Then take the trucks apart and clean off all the old grease. Be sure to get the grease out of the worm bearings. Rebuild the units using Aero Car lubricants in very small quantities. To make them really run nice run them for a while with Pearl Drops toothpaste to polish the gears. Then start the alcohol soak. Lou Yeah, that grease is nasty. I disassemble all my older P2K's, replace the gears, and lube them after cleaning. So far everything but this one GP18 has worked very well. As I posted above, I'll remotor this one and see how it goes. Thanks. |
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Post by iomalley on Feb 19, 2013 16:17:02 GMT -5
I'll admit, I don't pay GP18s the proper attention (cuz CN and CP didn't have any) but aren't the P2K GP18 grilles ok looking?
I mean, once you remove those gawd aweful shutters and flush fit the grilles themselves, would that not suffice? Adding the plano shutters in behind should yield a decent setup?
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Post by lyled1117 on Feb 19, 2013 23:26:58 GMT -5
I concur that the original GRILLS are actually quite respectful looking. They do seem to made of the 'slippery' plastic which complicates (but doesn't make impossible) bonding them to the hood side. The Plano pieces seem to be identical in outside dimensions to the Lifelike pieces, tho' I haven't put calipers on them to prove it. On the Plano small radiator there are six equally spaced vertical ribs. Those ribs are wider spaced on the LL part, making the two near the middle closer together. The Plano piece has a center vertical stiffener on the back that isn't present on the LL piece. The horizontal ribs don't quite align put they seem to be equally spaced on both. The frames of the two pieces seem to match quite well. On the larger part, both have nine equally spaced vertical ribs that very nearly align on both parts. There are two rear stiffeners on the Plano part that don't exist on the LL part. The frame of the LL part is a bit fatter than the Plano part. The rivet detail stands out much better on the Plano part, but is present on the LL part. The Plano piece has drainage holes in the lower frame piece that don't exist on the LL piece. In any case, the LL part would be quite acceptable.  Lyle |
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Post by ChadLRyan on Mar 31, 2013 21:23:16 GMT -5
Hello, I am working on a freelanced GP18-uh, M, I guess, until someone says some other abbreviations, hah ha ha.. I milled it's weights out so I could add sound, so the Shutters had to go, I used a corregated sheet, some black Veil fabric screening, & the stock outside grilles on it, & it actually looks good,(to me), & has a slim interior. My Model has the top side black, so the Grilles are relatively disguised. Here is a poor picture of the unit in it's initial scheme (pilots not done), with it's (former owner's packing issues), -the handrails... Those handrails & making LED's for the Ditch lights, & among other projects, stalled this one, for the moment... Thanks,  |
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