Post by NCCR 2580 on Dec 25, 2008 3:46:55 GMT -5
I have started another P2K switcher build using a SW8. I picked up a Chessie painted unit in a sweet deal. It had a few things like some hand rails and such broken, But nothing major. It can be fixed! Here it is out of the box before stripping. New radiator grills and cab will be added among other after market parts to bring this early EMD switcher into a more modern setting. This project is on going, More to come.
After stripping the paint, I noticed a seem line in the body towards the top of the shell. It runs around the entire top section of the long hood where the yellow line is. Using a sharp #11 blade. I scribed this line off then finish it off with a little sanding.
Next is removing parts from the shell that will be replaced with after market detail parts. The head light/number board housing will be replaced with a Details Associates part due to the fact the number boards in the P2K section are very recessed and not flush. The lift tabs also will be replaced as they do not have the correct shape nor have a hole for lifting. The bell will be replaced with a after market part as well. The hand rail along side the hood will be removed as it will not be need for this unit. This unit will feature side sill mounted hand rails common to switchers that have been updated.
I got impenitent while the shell was soaking during the stripping process and decided to start work on the pilots. For this unit, I chose to cut square holes in the kick plates which is a place for storing the MU hoses when not in use by tucking them inside. To do this, I drilled six pilot holes then using a sharp #11 blade. I cut out the un needed section. Then use the same blade and a jewelers file to clean up and square off. The first opening doas not need to be perfect. It is so that the pilot will have the opening available and it needs to be larger than the cut out that will be in the front kick plate so that you do not see the thickness of the cast pilot. You want to keep the rest of the stock pilot for strength.
Next, To get the pilot plate done. I use artist paper which is see through. Hold it onto the pilot of the unit you are working on. Use a pencil to out line the section you will replace then cut your template out. Once that is done, Take a peace of 0.025" sheet plastic, Place your template on top and trace around the edges. Once your new pilot kick plate is cut out, You will want to test fit it to the model while sitting the unit is sitting on a section of track. This will be able to guide you so that it is not to low.
I will hold off on adding MU hoses to this unit for now as it will have pilot stripes added once painting starts.
After stripping the paint, I noticed a seem line in the body towards the top of the shell. It runs around the entire top section of the long hood where the yellow line is. Using a sharp #11 blade. I scribed this line off then finish it off with a little sanding.
Next is removing parts from the shell that will be replaced with after market detail parts. The head light/number board housing will be replaced with a Details Associates part due to the fact the number boards in the P2K section are very recessed and not flush. The lift tabs also will be replaced as they do not have the correct shape nor have a hole for lifting. The bell will be replaced with a after market part as well. The hand rail along side the hood will be removed as it will not be need for this unit. This unit will feature side sill mounted hand rails common to switchers that have been updated.
I got impenitent while the shell was soaking during the stripping process and decided to start work on the pilots. For this unit, I chose to cut square holes in the kick plates which is a place for storing the MU hoses when not in use by tucking them inside. To do this, I drilled six pilot holes then using a sharp #11 blade. I cut out the un needed section. Then use the same blade and a jewelers file to clean up and square off. The first opening doas not need to be perfect. It is so that the pilot will have the opening available and it needs to be larger than the cut out that will be in the front kick plate so that you do not see the thickness of the cast pilot. You want to keep the rest of the stock pilot for strength.
Next, To get the pilot plate done. I use artist paper which is see through. Hold it onto the pilot of the unit you are working on. Use a pencil to out line the section you will replace then cut your template out. Once that is done, Take a peace of 0.025" sheet plastic, Place your template on top and trace around the edges. Once your new pilot kick plate is cut out, You will want to test fit it to the model while sitting the unit is sitting on a section of track. This will be able to guide you so that it is not to low.
I will hold off on adding MU hoses to this unit for now as it will have pilot stripes added once painting starts.
