4 step conversion for P2K GPs

[gnsteve]

The subject of converting P2K GP steps from 3 to 4 has come up so here's the way I've done it. A little while back I asked GNRHS modeling editor Duane Buck how he's done it and was surprised that I did it similarly to him.

Working from a prototype photo, determine where the bottom step is in relationship to the pilot, plow, truck or some other prominent item. That sets the total distance from walkway to bottom step. The middle of the 3 remaining steps goes halfway between top and bottom. The last 2 steps fill in halfway between the top and middle and between the middle and bottom.

Rather than try to get 8 individual cleats in each stepwell to support the brass steps, I cut risers from styrene sheet and made a subassembly. Since I have several Geeps on the bench, I made a master from aluminum. I used .010 styrene for the risers.


When I did these the first time, I used A-Line steps for Front Range GPs and I still have a few to work through. Here is the bottom step on the risers.

Here is a completed subassembly

Here are a couple a shots of an installed subassembly.



I've picked up a set of the Cannon steps and they are a little deeper than A-Lines. I'm going to have to adjust the risers and I'll be back in business.

I hope this helps.

Steve

[danraitz]

gnsteve,

Thanks for this technique!
I'll have to remember this when I get to my BN GP10/GP7u's, as some of them also had 4-steps.

Dan

[m636]

Wow. Very nice.
Well done.

[Packer]

Thanks for posting this Steve.

Are you cutting the step wells to fit the risers, or are the risers glued into the step wells? Also would you happen to have the dimensions for the styrene bits and pieces that are added to the pilots and step wells?

[gnsteve]

Vincent,

Generally speaking, I just flush cut the molded steps and glue in the subassembly. Depending on tolerences of the shell and subassembly, you may have to either use a styrene shim or sand the stepwell a bit for a good fit. As to the bits and pieces, on the first batch of shells I used I thought the pilot (and plow) was too far up off the rails so I added a scale foot piece of styrene to the bottom of the pilot. It's the thickness of the pilot with a stiffener piece added in the center. For the inboard side of the stepwell, I used the same thickness as the shell and extended them down to the new bottom. You should check your shells before you get too far into your conversion. For all I know, Lifelike and/or Walthers could have changed the molds and your shells could scale out differently than mine.

Steve

[mrlfan]

I am glad to see this post as I am needing to do this to several P2K GP9's for my Montana Rail Link engines. Again thanks for posting this.

Glenn

[Packer]

I had a bracket for doing this cut for me by someone on another forum. They work great, and the best part is they are actually from blueprints.

My brackets are designed for cannon steps though, and require frame milling on some locos.