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Post by bbrunell on Feb 25, 2012 22:52:08 GMT -5
I'm hoping this doesn't get wiped off the board. I was at the "Spring Thaw" today in Allentown and had the opportunity to pick up 2 LifeLike Proto 2000 diesels for 50 each. Both were estate sales and they looked brand new. We tested them on a short straight section of test track and they ran. When I got them home, I was introduced to the Proto 2000 Hoppy McFly dance, as the broken drive axles made these pair sound like they had flat drive wheels.
I was in for a party, as I took apart the older diesel - purchased 3/94 from the warranty card in the box. When I took the weight off, the small wires broke off the trucks. This was my first tinker session with a Proto, so I had to learn quickly how these were put together.
Three hours later, my spare Athearn trucks I had are missing drive axles! And I have several spares on order to get the other loco running. This sure feels like a rescue!!!
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Post by bikingmike on Feb 26, 2012 1:17:05 GMT -5
That sounds a lot like my introduction to P2K locos. While I was visiting Australia my friend took me to a hobby shop where I found a GP30 on special. When I got it back home it behaved exactly as you described. A couple of emails later to lifelike resulted in a new set of wheels.
It runs smooth as a baby's bum now.
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Post by poweredby251 on Feb 27, 2012 2:35:04 GMT -5
On a lot of the Proto's, the weight is held on in the front, back, and middle. An easy way to make maintanance easier in the future is to cut the weight into 3 pieces. That way you can access a truck without removing the full weight and all the wires on top.
John
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Post by bbrunell on Mar 2, 2012 22:18:31 GMT -5
Thanks for the tip, John. I guess I'm a sucker for these now, I just picked up another GP off of eBay this week...
I'll remember that when I go to replace these drive axles, lol...
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Post by poweredby251 on Mar 2, 2012 22:27:39 GMT -5
Just double check each before you cut - Proto liked to make changes too..... John Thanks for the tip, John. I guess I'm a sucker for these now, I just picked up another GP off of eBay this week... I'll remember that when I go to replace these drive axles, lol... |
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Post by CP_8530 on Mar 5, 2012 3:02:55 GMT -5
Personally, I've never had the need to hack the metal weight up. Then again, I usually do away with the DCC plug and hardwire them (so they run as quick as my Atlas/Athearns on DC) so that simplifies wiring them back up when I take them apart.
If you rewire them and leave a bit of slack so you can pull the weight up a tad and oil the bearings on the motor/worms without tearing it apart.
But, I have modified the weight for chop-nosed units as well as narrowing it for a shell to fit, and that take some work with a file and hacksaw (or a milling machine if you're lucky to have access).
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Post by bbrunell on Mar 8, 2012 21:24:04 GMT -5
By the way, I purchased some new Athearn drive wheels/axles/gears and the old Proto works like a charm. The Athearn parts are a drop-in fix...
-bill
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Post by John on Mar 9, 2012 6:46:41 GMT -5
I didn't realise Athearn wheels and gears would fit the P2K engines. What type of wheelsets and gears did you use? Genesis or RTR?
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Post by bbrunell on Mar 12, 2012 14:55:31 GMT -5
Purchase Athearn part number ATH 40028. For web sites that don't list the part number, the description is RTR 40" Loco Whls. You will get the full axle setup, including the wheels & bearings pressed on to the center gear. They come 6 pair to a pack...
-bill
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