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Post by tjmfishing on Feb 17, 2012 23:21:07 GMT -5
Hello, Picked this "project" up on Ebay the other day for $35 along with two DA comfort cabs and an SD60 cab. Considering the price tags on the dummy loco and three cabs were $35, $12, $12 and $16 respectively, I was glad to find this. After a long discussion, I decided to do one of the 5300's as this is a dash 2 instead of the dash "0" that I was expecting. The guy I bought it from said he basically bit off more that he could chew. Here's what I got straight out of the mailbox today. It's going to be stripped, painted into the stripes scheme and lightly weathered: It's clear that he had no shortage of filler putty:
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 18, 2012 5:12:30 GMT -5
One of the first things I learned about detailing was thatfiller doesn't substitute for plastic in holes, its only good for filling gaps! He has used way to much, hope you can rescue this.
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Post by tjmfishing on Feb 18, 2012 12:31:25 GMT -5
One of the first things I learned about detailing was thatfiller doesn't substitute for plastic in holes, its only good for filling gaps! He has used way to much, hope you can rescue this. I'm pretty sure its Bondo aka body filler for car bodies. I soaked the model in Pine Sol to remove the paint, and since the Bondo was added over the paint, the paint softened and I was able to scrap a lot of it off. What I couldn't scrap off I sanded down but there is some over the details
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sd50f
Superintendent
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Post by sd50f on Feb 18, 2012 14:26:42 GMT -5
I saw that auction on eBay...almost went for it but the body putty told me not to.
Good luck getting it in shape!
Timothy Dineen
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Post by antlorch on Feb 18, 2012 15:54:58 GMT -5
If you work carefully around those details with a dull hobby knife or maybe get it wet again and use an old tooth brush and scrub the putty off. I don't know if you could use mineral spirits as the wetting agent without melting the plastic. Maybe the pine-sol again with the brush?
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Post by tjmfishing on Feb 20, 2012 0:32:17 GMT -5
I stripped the shell and was able to remove most of the body filler. I'm waiting on parts so I decided to tackle the cab. Here's what I ended up with, quite a difference with all the Bondo sanded off, although there is still the odd hole that I need to touch up. Since this model is unpowered, I decided to at least fully detail the cab with Miniatures by Eric parts. Then I got thinking, why stop there, and I decided to scratchbuild steps and leave the cab door ajar. As bad as this angle may look, 95% of those glue marks will be completely hidden by the long hood.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 20, 2012 10:02:57 GMT -5
I had considered this idea for my SD40-2W but don;t have any good phots of the inside/steps area. Don't suppose you have any you could post to help me out with have you?
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Post by tamaman on Feb 20, 2012 10:28:22 GMT -5
Cool, good start Taylor.
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Post by tjmfishing on Feb 20, 2012 10:29:26 GMT -5
I had considered this idea for my SD40-2W but don;t have any good phots of the inside/steps area. Don't suppose you have any you could post to help me out with have you? Do a google image search for "CN SD40-2W" there are two photos that show the steps. After a discussion with another member on here, I have decided to use a CDN Prototype Replica cab. I'm starting to feel like what I'm doing here is like putting lipstick on a pig.
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Post by Randy Earle on Feb 20, 2012 12:30:31 GMT -5
Pucker Up Taylor! LOL!!!
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Post by ricnok on Feb 20, 2012 15:49:21 GMT -5
try this
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Post by tjmfishing on Feb 20, 2012 15:55:29 GMT -5
So that's the second door that Sean was talking about. whoops. Thanks though!
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Post by iomalley on Feb 20, 2012 21:46:19 GMT -5
yeah, there's a bulkhead inside that runs from front cab corner to corner with a door in it, roughly the same size as the nose door and a little closer to centreline. there's usually a spineboard and some spares and tools kept in this area. I'm afraid with the step arrangement you have that the conductor will run out of headroom going up the stairs...
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Post by tjmfishing on Feb 20, 2012 22:47:20 GMT -5
Ended up switching to the CDN Prototype Cab, not sure why I wasn't using it before. Cab interior from Miniatures by Eric and the steps, cab floor and electrical cabinet are scratchbuilt from Evergreen Styrene, Paint needs some touching up yet
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Post by tamaman on Feb 21, 2012 10:08:27 GMT -5
Lookin good Taylor!
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Post by tjmfishing on Mar 17, 2012 19:14:12 GMT -5
Made a little more progress on this unit in the past few days. Waiting on some parts from Cannon and Company, and Railflyer. Looks like I'm gonna have to do another Cannon and Company and Miniatures by Eric order as I came across another SD40-2(W) and I need to complete my SD40. Finished painting and almost finished the decals on the cab. Unfortunatly, since this has now been upgraded to a powered unit, the stairs/open door idea had to go. My Kato SD40 has arrived and I cut out the dynamic brake section from it to use on this engine. Since this is a dash 2 and thus a few feet longer, I had to use some shims to get the dynamic brake hatch to fit just right. A close up of the newly soldered ditch lights. Since the pilot is a brass casting, I'm not gonna wire the ditchlights on this one, but they still look cool.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 18, 2012 5:15:44 GMT -5
Back from the dead indeed! This unit is starting to look good now you managed to rescue it from that mound of filler.
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Post by spud7378 on Mar 18, 2012 7:54:26 GMT -5
looking good taylor, cant wait to see it done love those canadian wide cabs!
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Post by tjmfishing on Mar 19, 2012 18:11:01 GMT -5
Got my Cannon and Company parts in the mail today and within about an hour I made it this far. I can't see myself getting any farther with this or the SD40 this week as I'm gonna be at the university all day and evening.
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Post by iomalley on Mar 20, 2012 8:39:13 GMT -5
Looking good! Those CPRep cabs are easy aren't they!?!?
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