Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 9, 2008 12:38:28 GMT -5
Hi all, Well, I am haveing a very difficult time staying in budget. For $9.36 I got an Athearn GP38-2, non-DB hatch, Athearn handrail set and Cannon & Co. tread plate set. That is not the issue. Last night I sat down and made a BOM. with the cost above and the BOM as it stands right now, I am $20.00 over budget and that is crossing out the cost of things I already have. Also, I have not even added the decals, lights and decoder . Sorry all, but I am going to have to bow out of this one . If I were to have to decide on what to remove, I would have to take out the Cannon nose, sub-base and cab. That would bring the cost down to just under $100.00, but I still do not have decals, lights and decoder. I would have to remove to much to make this model marketable. My budget on this model is more like $200.00 or less for everything. Unless of course I decide to put a sound system in it .
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CIOR
Chairman
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Post by CIOR on Oct 9, 2008 18:01:19 GMT -5
Brian, Don't consider the innards, you just consider the shell and the "pretty". Anything beyond that, should be fine. I don't/won't consider the guts, its the details.
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Post by Randy Earle on Oct 9, 2008 19:37:12 GMT -5
Yes, I agree with Matt, the stuff inside the locomotive does not count. This is a detailer forum, we are not consumed with DCC, Sound Boards, and Can motors. Brian, I don't know what a BOM is, but we don't pronounce it in Polish. ;D
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sarge
Chairman
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Post by sarge on Oct 9, 2008 19:45:46 GMT -5
Call me stupid, but I don't know what RPMing is either. I also agrre, the guts don't count.
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Post by graftonterminalrr on Oct 9, 2008 19:48:10 GMT -5
BOM: Bill Of Materials RPM: Railroad Prototype Modeling I'm here to help!
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Smoke
Chairman
The Ski Train!!!!
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Post by Smoke on Oct 9, 2008 23:47:57 GMT -5
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 12, 2008 20:38:52 GMT -5
Well, my cheap budget build was blown by $40.00 so far.
I did get the truck side frames all detailed and done this weekend. One of the reasons I chose MKT #315 was because it had the full variety of journals. Made it interesting.
Brian
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Post by cf7 on Oct 16, 2008 10:09:12 GMT -5
I realize that I may have gotten in a little late, but I believe the rules don't qualify as a "cheap build" anymore. I think that for the $100, the insides should matter.
A lot of Athearn, Kato, P2K, Atlas, etc can be had for around $40, add a $20 decoder and your at $60. Add then $30 worth of details, plus taxes, and you'll be right around $100.
My MKT slug that I posted photos of, I purchased the Stewart/Kato F unit, added a decoder, built and purchased a few details and I only had around $80 in it.
What do ya'll think?
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Post by Randy Earle on Oct 16, 2008 11:46:33 GMT -5
Brian is factoring in the price of Cannon parts. By the time you add fans and all the other parts you can spend as much for a RTR unit.
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Post by cf7 on Oct 16, 2008 12:12:08 GMT -5
Randy - I realize that, but then that puts the project in a different category. It is no longer a cheap build. Maybe we need 2 categories; one for under a $100 and one for under $200!
What the purpose of a cheap build for $100 if it won't roll down the track? You will have a dolled-up shell, but nothing else!
Just my thoughts on this. To me, cheap is just that, cheap.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 16, 2008 12:29:56 GMT -5
I agree. Cheap means cheap. Everything that goes into it is game whether it is on the inside or outside.
It is just impossible for me to stick to the criteria of the cheap build. So much of what I do is standard for me. Adding the sound system and decoder puts me over $200.00.
Brian
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Post by cf7 on Oct 16, 2008 13:17:48 GMT -5
Brian - I certainly don't mind seeing more of your outstanding work, no matter how much it costs for you to build! Off topic here, but, several years ago, your Utah Railway N loco appeared on a certain N scale website as the model of the month. I happened to win it the month before with my BN SDP40! Ahhh; great fun!
I feel this could be a great thread with all kinds of neat work appearing. I have always been fascinated with inexpensive projects. I'll be posting an HO Kato NW2 soon. I have $67, plus tax, in it so far (loco plus decoder). Thankfully, these don't have a ton of detail parts that other projects do!
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Post by Randy Earle on Oct 16, 2008 17:54:11 GMT -5
Not all of us are into sound and decoders or DCC. Many of us are builders without layouts, myself included for the time being.
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Post by cf7 on Oct 16, 2008 18:26:36 GMT -5
Randy - That just means you can buy more details! We moved into our house almost 2 years ago and I also don't have a layout (yet!). I have drawn up plans to enclose part of the garage using AutoCad and now I just need to start building it. By equipping the locos with DCC now, I will be ready when the time comes.
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Post by Randy Earle on Oct 16, 2008 19:07:41 GMT -5
Randy - That just means you can buy more details! We moved into our house almost 2 years ago and I also don't have a layout (yet!). I have drawn up plans to enclose part of the garage using AutoCad and now I just need to start building it. By equipping the locos with DCC now, I will be ready when the time comes. I used to have a 28x30 shelf layout set to 63 inches. Once I closed my store I had to take it down.
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Post by mikesloane on Nov 25, 2008 8:24:36 GMT -5
Cheap? Yes, that's me. I am retired and working on a very tight budget. I took a pair of old Athearn "Hustlers", removed the cab from one and made it into a "calf' and hooked the two together. Only the calf is powered (with an Ernst gear conversion kit), and I intend to add an interior and glazing to the cab of the cow (when I get a round tuit), now that the cab no longer has the motor taking up most of the interior. Meanwhile, I added handrails to both to give them ore "character". An image can be seen at <http://public.fotki.com/mikesloane/model_railroad/nvrr_122004_27.html>. Both draw power from the rails so it does much better over switches than the single Hustler ever did.
Mike
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Post by redp on Nov 30, 2008 18:41:04 GMT -5
You know what? I got a factory painted Athearn RTR GP35 sitting on a shelf, I have yet to do something with. So im in, we will just see what happens. P
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Post by Randy Earle on Dec 4, 2008 12:26:02 GMT -5
Sounds like Cheap Builds to me old buddy.
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Post by hannamet on Dec 22, 2008 15:07:15 GMT -5
I read this thread with alot of interest because everyone has a different idea of what "cheap" means. Modeling standards vary as much as values, but I think the $100 limit is very reasonable, maybe even a bit high? Yes, I'm a newbie here, but it sounded like the first idea for doing this was to see what people could come up with for under $100 dollars. For some, that might mean "stopping work" at $100 and show us what you've got! I would hate to see someone become discouraged because the readers here expect a first class model for under $100. One thing that came to mind for me when I saw this topic was a 1970 Tyco GP20 I had as a kid and used to practice on. I'm sure it was not prototypical, but it was fun! I don't know about everyone, but I'm here becasue I feel like I can learn something and maybe some day be able to help someone else. Beginners here may have a $50 limit, so lets help them out too with hints and tips.
Have a great Christmas! Brad
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Post by Randy Earle on Jan 16, 2009 12:20:58 GMT -5
Jay, that's an excellent "Cheap Build".
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