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Post by Mike DeBerg on Mar 27, 2010 8:17:06 GMT -5
I have some older blue box shells that I am wanting to use for establishing a new technique for cutting in a light casting in the nose of a ready to run locomotive with as little impact to the factory paint as possible. Curious as to how other modelers are accomplishing this modification?
Thanks, Mike
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Post by stewarttrains98 on Apr 9, 2010 16:58:13 GMT -5
Sounds like some good advise and probably the best that I have heard for the process.
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Post by Mike DeBerg on May 22, 2010 8:50:15 GMT -5
Greatly appreciate the detailed approach and will let you know how it goes. :-)
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Rudy Garbely
Chairman
Modeling Conrail from 1976-1979 in HO scale.
Posts: 1,073
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Post by Rudy Garbely on May 27, 2010 22:03:56 GMT -5
There's a great short article on doing exactly this in the newest Model Railroader that just came in the mail today.
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bar1967
Probationary Member
Posts: 24
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Post by bar1967 on Sept 19, 2010 10:07:00 GMT -5
There's a great short article on doing exactly this in the newest Model Railroader that just came in the mail today. What month is it? |
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Post by stillbre on Sept 24, 2010 13:27:41 GMT -5
Mike,
Be aware that there is several different types of nose lights.
You have the DRGW-style nose light which sits along the top radius of the nose and and is mounted in a box that actually sits a little higher than the nose.
Then there is the SP style which is wider and also sits at the top of the tip of the nose.
ATSF has a similar position to the SP but is narrower.
All three of these types require some cutting into the roof of the nose. The SP and ATSF are literally cut into the nose. Espeeaussie's technique works great for this approach.
Then you have the style that was used on some MP units as well as all L&N, ACL, and SCL-ordered units. I believe this style is also like what is used on Canadian units as well. As an L&N modeler, I've done about a million of these lights.
My technique only involves 3 tools: a jewler file, calipers, and masking tape. Start by laying a piece of masking tape horizontally across the nose so that the lower edge splits the class lights in half. The top of the lower strip goes right across the top of the handrail nubs. I take the calipars and measure the width of the headlight casting that I will use. Then I go just a tick mark wider. Split the difference on each side of the point of the nose. I lay two vertical strips of tape at those marks. The masking tape protects the paint on factory painted shells and helps prevent stray file marks and gouges. Keep filing until the nose is even with the vertical masking tape. Keep test fitting the headlight casting as you go. After removing the masking tape, trim the top and bottom of the notch at roughly a 45 degree angle. Incredibly simple. Takes longer to describe how it's done that it does to do it.
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DRLOCO
Chairman
We can Railroad, Yes we can!
Posts: 237
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Post by DRLOCO on Oct 31, 2010 20:23:24 GMT -5
As a canadian modeler, I'd second Josh's technique using the masking tape--
I've also read that article in MR, and it had a template that came with the headlight casting, which is cheating, but would speed up the process..it's nice, but not needed.
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Post by manny on Nov 29, 2010 5:24:32 GMT -5
What about mounting a Frisco-style mars light in the nose, I want to have these on my freelanced road power??? Is there even a manufacturer that makes those lights?
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Post by icghogger on Nov 29, 2010 10:02:49 GMT -5
What about mounting a Frisco-style mars light in the nose, I want to have these on my freelanced road power??? Is there even a manufacturer that makes those lights? Manny, check out the Utah Pacific part #85. It is a nose-mount Pyle Gyralite that looks very much like those used by the Frisco. |
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Post by ChessieFan1978 on Aug 25, 2018 21:53:22 GMT -5
How do you guys cut into the nose to install those? I went a little big and now have to fill in around the noselight.
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Post by icghogger on Aug 28, 2018 9:12:17 GMT -5
How do you guys cut into the nose to install those? I went a little big and now have to fill in around the noselight. Lay out your opening for the nose-mounted gyra-light with a pencil, drill a clearance hole at each corner on the top and on the front, then use a razor saw at a 45-degree angle to the front to cut inside your pencil marks up to each pre-drilled hole. Slow and steady is the key to making a nice clean cut. Finish the opening with a file or sanding stick that fits the opening. |
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