doncsx
Probationary Member
Posts: 13
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Post by doncsx on Mar 7, 2010 18:05:47 GMT -5
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Post by poweredby251 on Mar 7, 2010 18:20:24 GMT -5
Good question. Haven't built one, but your best bet would probably be to do what the prototype did. Start with a Stewart AS-616, using the cab and walkway. The long hood should be from a Proto SD-9, but you'll have to bash the transitions. The chopped nose came later, so that depends on your era. If you do a modernized chopped version, you'll have to build the cab front, as I don't think anyone makes one that will work. The nose can be sectioned from the original Stewart. That headlight looks like those found on some of the GE 70-tonners..........
John
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spike
Chairman
They say I can't be Spike anymore, so Mr. Burns it is!
Posts: 561
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Post by spike on Mar 14, 2010 2:09:54 GMT -5
There was anarticle in one of the model mags about making the transition piece between the Baldwin cab and EMD hood. The article was based on the MKT, later C&NW units. If you look for it, you may get some pointers.
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Post by Kevin Johnson on Mar 14, 2010 11:59:56 GMT -5
Atlas, must be an old run. One just sold on ebay that I was watching for some strange reason. Maybe because I saw your question. Anyway I deleted it.
Keep an eye open, maybe another one will show up.
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Post by MONONC420 on Mar 15, 2010 13:16:19 GMT -5
What do you do for trucks? I think the AS 616 trucks should work just fine. Christian |
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Post by poweredby251 on Mar 15, 2010 22:59:56 GMT -5
The Stewart AS-616 trucks are what you need. Just use the AS-616 and rebuild the hood, nose and cab front. Almost everything from the walkway down remains the same, but you may wish to redo the fuel tank and air tanks. Earlier Stewarts were a bit sparce on underbody details.
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nysw240
Chairman
Modeling the Delaware Valley
Posts: 297
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Post by nysw240 on Mar 18, 2010 17:37:35 GMT -5
Actually a GP18 long hood would be a better choice than using a SD9 hood. to me it looks closer than a SD9 hood Good question. Haven't built one, but your best bet would probably be to do what the prototype did. Start with a Stewart AS-616, using the cab and walkway. The long hood should be from a Proto SD-9, but you'll have to bash the transitions. The chopped nose came later, so that depends on your era. If you do a modernized chopped version, you'll have to build the cab front, as I don't think anyone makes one that will work. The nose can be sectioned from the original Stewart. That headlight looks like those found on some of the GE 70-tonners.......... John |
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Post by poweredby251 on Mar 18, 2010 23:29:47 GMT -5
Looking again, a Geep hood would work better, probably whichever model was being built when the conversion was done. I didn't think about the length factor, or look at the radiators, just assumed a 6-axle rebuild would get the SD treatment. Slipped my mind that the 4 and 6 axle Baldwins were the same length........... John Actually a GP18 long hood would be a better choice than using a SD9 hood. to me it looks closer than a SD9 hood Good question. Haven't built one, but your best bet would probably be to do what the prototype did. Start with a Stewart AS-616, using the cab and walkway. The long hood should be from a Proto SD-9, but you'll have to bash the transitions. The chopped nose came later, so that depends on your era. If you do a modernized chopped version, you'll have to build the cab front, as I don't think anyone makes one that will work. The nose can be sectioned from the original Stewart. That headlight looks like those found on some of the GE 70-tonners.......... John |
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uncleb
Engineer
Rebuilding my empire
Posts: 29 
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Post by uncleb on Nov 10, 2017 22:19:37 GMT -5
www.cmrproducts.com makes a complete ready to detail & paint plastic shell that represents the URR BUFFALO. CMR Products makes dozens of off the main trail diesel locomotive shells. Price's range from $20 to $35. Quality stuff for sure. For kitbashers, CMR has your stuff.
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Post by blane on Feb 23, 2018 18:48:02 GMT -5
www.cmrproducts.com makes a complete ready to detail & paint plastic shell that represents the URR BUFFALO. CMR Products makes dozens of off the main trail diesel locomotive shells. Price's range from $20 to $35. Quality stuff for sure. For kitbashers, CMR has your stuff. I would not recommend buying anything made by CMR products as it's just a different name for what used to be Big Dawg Originals. Given the controversial reputation of the latter, I would assume their shell is most likely someone else's work that's been stolen and resold as supposedly their own original product (came across a forum posting suggesting this was done for this particular model). Not only that but from the photos I've seen on their website the resin shells have multiple visible imperfections (bubbles) which is inexcusable when paying around $35 a shell. Blane |
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Post by coaldog on Feb 23, 2018 19:41:56 GMT -5
On one shell I was interested in it had a blob so I ask CMR about it.
I was told it's an unfinished shell and i would need to finish any body work myself.
Sorry but for a $35 shell it had better have blemishes removed or fixed before my wallet opens.
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Post by annarborfan on Feb 23, 2018 20:49:15 GMT -5
One unit had a late GP9 hood the others used GP18 hoods. Splicing and dicing PROTO 2000 shells onto the Stewart/Bowser unit sounds more fun than trying to correct a resin shell of dubious quality. The ones I've seen look poor in the grille detail like not enough mold prep was done. Either way you still gotta get the Stewart/Bowser core so they're not an exactly cheap unit to build. But they looked cool.
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Post by mikeinwi on Feb 26, 2018 11:08:15 GMT -5
I had no idea that CMR Products was tied to Big Dawg.
Thanks for the info.
Mike.
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Post by coaldog on Feb 28, 2018 21:30:29 GMT -5
I had no idea that CMR Products was tied to Big Dawg. Thanks for the info. Mike. CMR bought out big dawg but picked up where he left off. |
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