Rudy Garbely
Chairman
Modeling Conrail from 1976-1979 in HO scale.
Posts: 1,073
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Post by Rudy Garbely on Jan 19, 2010 19:35:20 GMT -5
You forgot a few steps ;D:
1) Explain to the wife/girlfriend that this pipe is absolutely integral to the prototypical accuracy of the completed model.
2) Once she leaves the room, attempt to find the centimeter-long section of styrene tubing that rolled off of your desk onto the white tile floor. This was the piece that took at least four attempts to get it exactly the right length and cut at the correct angle. Spend at least 20-30 minutes doing this.
3) Attempt to retain some of your decency as your wife/girlfriend walks in again to find your rear end up in the air while you are scurrying around on the floor under your workbench looking for said centimeter-long section of styrene tubing.
4) Remind her that this piping is completely necessary for the finished model.
5) Once she leaves the room, look down. The lost piece of tubing is right in front of you.
6) As you reach down to pick it up, make sure to bang your head on the workbench on the way down. This will cause all of the remaining tubing to roll off of your workbench and scatter to the far corners of the room.
7) Give up and just send the freakin' locomotive to Spring, Texas. Go shopping for some more sanity to replace what you lost (check the "do-it-yourself" section at WalMart). Pay Robert to keep quiet, so that when your wife/girlfriend asks a week later to see the piping that was so integral to the completed model, you can simply take off the front truck, the shell, and the fuel tank to expose his mostly-hidden handiwork and then claim it as your own.
.... Honestly Robert, amazing work! If I ever need the plumbing done in my HO scale houses, I'm sending them to you!
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Post by redgrey62 on Jan 22, 2010 18:07:11 GMT -5
Timely, not for a loco project but I'm looking to add some gas meters to some buildings and this will work very well!
Ricky
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Post by Ridgeline on Feb 4, 2010 20:18:06 GMT -5
wow... how would i do this in n scale?? ;D
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Post by icghogger on Feb 5, 2010 10:14:05 GMT -5
wow... how would i do this in n scale?? ;D V-e-r-r-ry Carefully and with Great Patience
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Post by icghogger on Feb 5, 2010 11:54:31 GMT -5
V-e-r-r-ry Carefully and with Great Patience I thought about posting that last night, but didn't want to sound like a smart-AHEM. Great minds, eh?? (can't say as much for the intelligent posterior part ;D )
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Post by Ridgeline on Feb 5, 2010 13:45:21 GMT -5
V-e-r-r-ry Carefully and with Great Patience I thought about posting that last night, but didn't want to sound like a smart-AHEM. HAH! fair enough... but i actually model in n scale!
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garyrsatx
Trainmaster
It's been a while, but I'm back!
Posts: 119
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Post by garyrsatx on Feb 28, 2010 3:09:47 GMT -5
GOOD GOD!
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garyrsatx
Trainmaster
It's been a while, but I'm back!
Posts: 119
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Post by garyrsatx on Feb 28, 2010 3:10:50 GMT -5
Looks like I need to re-tap the Mt. Dew I.V. in my freaken arm... ;D
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Post by sp9504 on Mar 6, 2010 19:30:17 GMT -5
Nice! Have you tried this with .015 diameter styrene rod? Thanks for sharing.
Cheers, Harry
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Post by icghogger on Mar 8, 2010 10:02:17 GMT -5
Nice! Have you tried this with .015 diameter styrene rod? Thanks for sharing. Cheers, Harry Yes, I have, Harry. All of the piping and fittings are done using .010", .015", .020", .025" and .030" styrene rods and the wraps for the fittings are .005" sheet styrene.
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Post by icghogger on Aug 18, 2010 14:15:50 GMT -5
This post will show how I made the main reservoir safety valve. The valve is .015 styrene rod and the body (the collar of the valve) is .025 styrene rod. The safety valve is in the middle of the following picture. Center punch the .025 rod. Drill a hole in the .025 rod to fit the .015 styrene rod. Slide the 015 rod into the end of the 025 rod. Cut the 025 rod to make the valve body. The section of 025 rod on the end of the 015 rod. Slide the valve body up the 015 rod to finish forming the safety valve and cement in place. Round the end of the 015 rod to shape the top of the safety valve. The finished safety valve. Fitting the finished safety valve to an elbow prior to installing on the main reservoir line from the air compressor.
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kcs1967
Chairman
SWLA-SETX PINE SCENTED
Posts: 1,726
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Post by kcs1967 on Aug 18, 2010 21:52:42 GMT -5
Robert, how in the H e double hocky sticks are managing that? I am doing good to get a decent corner bond on my Canon stuff. Simply amazing work, Great Job!!
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Post by Randy Earle on Aug 18, 2010 22:00:07 GMT -5
Robert....how many times did you drill into your fingers? ;D
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Post by icghogger on Aug 19, 2010 12:47:27 GMT -5
Robert....how many times did you drill into your fingers? ;D As many times as I can (gotta love the pain!)
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Post by icghogger on Aug 20, 2010 10:38:44 GMT -5
The next valve is the cutout cock for the main reservoirs. I start by pressing a flat on the sytrene rod, using a machinist vise. Then, I center-punch and drill the handle for the valve pivot. Drill the valve body and fit the pivot for the handle. Two views of the handle fitted to the valve body The finished cutout cock (with the safety valve and the one-way check valve made from a brass fitting) on the main reservoir piping.
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Post by rdg5310 on Aug 20, 2010 11:01:04 GMT -5
As always, nice work Robert!
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kcs1967
Chairman
SWLA-SETX PINE SCENTED
Posts: 1,726
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Post by kcs1967 on Aug 20, 2010 11:08:39 GMT -5
;D
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Post by icghogger on Aug 20, 2010 16:06:46 GMT -5
Thanks for all the kind words, guys, it's truly a pleasure to share with one and all!!
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Post by RunningExtra on Aug 20, 2010 19:14:49 GMT -5
I am stunned, that is some amazing work my friend!!!
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Post by icghogger on Aug 30, 2010 11:47:27 GMT -5
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