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Post by stlrail on May 24, 2020 17:36:47 GMT -5
Well, since the majority of the locomotives I'll be modeling will be of the Century persuasion, I figure this is the best area to post the builds. I've (obviously) already been working on these a little bit. Hopefully, when complete I'll have done 305 (RS-20), 315 (C430), 316 (RS-27), 319 & 322 (C424M), and 323 (C420M). 322 and 316 are on track to be finished first. Although I'm having trouble finding photos of the top of the long hood of 322 for lift ring placement. 316 is a old Alco Models brass shell, I junked the horrendous factory drive, and it now rides on a modified Atlas RS-11 chassis. 319 and 322 are Atlas products, and 323 is a Rivarossi. 305 (if my CMR chop nose ever shows up) will be a kitbashed combo of Stewart RS-3, Roundhouse RS-3, and Atlas RS-3 parts.                     |
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Post by icghogger on May 25, 2020 7:59:28 GMT -5
You are doing some excellent work, John, keep 'em coming!!
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Post by stlrail on May 26, 2020 20:47:01 GMT -5
You are doing some excellent work, John, keep 'em coming!! Thank you, not quite as good as some here, but I also don't want to get so intricate that I'm afraid to handle them! I think these two are ready for paint! They'll be getting hit with TruColor boxcar red tomorrow (closest to GBW red I could find).  |
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Post by mandealco on May 27, 2020 16:07:16 GMT -5
Hi
I have a couple of photos of the long hood roof of 322. They were taken by a member of the RCT&HS who now own the Alco. He took them to help me with my hood top details on the 321 which I was building in N-Scale. They show where the dynamic brakes were removed and other details like the water expansion tank It does show some of the lift rings, which are fairly standard on a C-424. Excuse the builders ruler that was to help me with my project. Send me a PM and I'll e-mail them to you. I can also send you some photos of my 321 that may also help. My model made the banner photo a few years ago when it was first built.
Cheers
Steve
NZ
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Post by stlrail on Jun 2, 2020 9:55:50 GMT -5
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Post by mandealco on Jun 2, 2020 15:55:06 GMT -5
Nice looking Alco John.
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Post by stlrail on Jun 2, 2020 17:16:40 GMT -5
For reference, this is the original ALCO Models UP RS-27 that #316 started out as:  |
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Post by countryroads on Jun 2, 2020 19:02:15 GMT -5
Looking Great John.
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Post by sbcarshops on Jun 3, 2020 0:12:55 GMT -5
Looking great, really excellent work and good to see your progress. I always Liked alco locomotives!
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Post by stlrail on Jun 7, 2020 10:37:31 GMT -5
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Post by countryroads on Jun 7, 2020 22:05:31 GMT -5
Interesting unit remember seeing pictures of it years ago.
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dekon
Staff Member
Posts: 635
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Post by dekon on Jun 11, 2020 8:23:32 GMT -5
Great looking builds!
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Post by stlrail on Jun 12, 2020 21:47:02 GMT -5
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Post by countryroads on Jun 13, 2020 3:03:46 GMT -5
Looks great.
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Post by icghogger on Jun 13, 2020 8:59:39 GMT -5
Very Nice Work, John, Very Nice, Indeed!!
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Post by stlrail on Jun 19, 2020 22:12:09 GMT -5
Slow progress on 322. Maybe it'll be done by the end of next week?   |
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Post by stlrail on Jun 20, 2020 21:11:44 GMT -5
I LOATHE decaling number boards...  |
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fr8kar
Chairman
Little man raise the cotton, beer joints get the money
Posts: 309
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Post by fr8kar on Jun 21, 2020 6:01:09 GMT -5
I LOATHE decaling number boards... You had me at decaling.... |
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Post by slowfreight on Jun 21, 2020 22:01:51 GMT -5
Numbers are no fun, but otherwise I always enjoyed decaling. For weathering your units, I would encourage you to mask off the grills before airbrushing, so that your paint edges aren't obvious airbrush swirls. Or use thinned washes of oil paint. Here's an in-service photo of 316 ca. 1992 rr-fallenflags.org/gbw/gbw316abg.jpgNotice that the big shutters on the radiator don't have much grime in them. But the other intakes are only black where the air sucks into them. That's why I mask off grills before airbrushing them, like here
Conversely, I used no airbrush in weathering this unit, but did it all with thinned oils. On 703, I worked carefully from proto photos that I saved up over time. Your modeling work is good enough that I encourage you to start weathering off prototype pics--it'll really make the details pop out.
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Post by stlrail on Jun 21, 2020 22:57:59 GMT -5
Numbers are no fun, but otherwise I always enjoyed decaling. For weathering your units, I would encourage you to mask off the grills before airbrushing, so that your paint edges aren't obvious airbrush swirls. Or use thinned washes of oil paint. Here's an in-service photo of 316 ca. 1992 rr-fallenflags.org/gbw/gbw316abg.jpgNotice that the big shutters on the radiator don't have much grime in them. But the other intakes are only black where the air sucks into them. That's why I mask off grills before airbrushing them, like here
Conversely, I used no airbrush in weathering this unit, but did it all with thinned oils. On 703, I worked carefully from proto photos that I saved up over time. Your modeling work is good enough that I encourage you to start weathering off prototype pics--it'll really make the details pop out.
Thanks! I've actually been using a chalk type weathering powder that I really like. It's self adhering, but I still dullcoat to seal it in. I started using a micro brush for intakes (on 322) to control the powder better, and Q-tips for larger areas, especially where I want a fade. I had only used the larger Q-tips on 316. 322 is a little more forgiving since it didn't seem to get washed at all towards the end, so the grime is pretty much everywhere.   |
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