eagle15
Probationary Member
Posts: 10
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Post by eagle15 on Dec 15, 2019 17:07:59 GMT -5
Hey everyone. Been looking around and finally dug out another project that I have most of the parts for. My question is has anyone on here casted parts? I am looking at doing a couple of the BN B30-7A's. Looking at doing one of the earlier ones and one of the later ones. I have been looking at the grilles in the back and on the doors. I have Atlas, Proto and Athearn locomotives that I am looking at the grilles and I am wanting to know how do you make castings for some of the grilles without damaging the bodies of the shells? It seems like there aftermarket companies never really got into the GE's like they did the EMD's.
Dan
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Post by slowfreight on Dec 17, 2019 14:24:48 GMT -5
Have you looked on Shapeways? he6agon has designed quite a few GE parts. I recently used his cab on another project--he's only got a few dozen variations of GE cab.
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Post by nsc39d8 on Dec 18, 2019 18:35:48 GMT -5
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fr8kar
Chairman
Little man raise the cotton, beer joints get the money
Posts: 309
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Post by fr8kar on Dec 19, 2019 0:06:29 GMT -5
I was working on a B30-7AB and B30-7A1B shell for the Atlas B30-7 when Rapido announced their B36-7 model. Once they showed test shots of a "BN" fuel tank I figured it wasn't long before they'd release the definitive BN booster unit. I could still finish those CAD files and offer up some parts to modify the Atlas B30-7, but other projects have taken priority. Here's a screenshot of where I left the project:
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fr8kar
Chairman
Little man raise the cotton, beer joints get the money
Posts: 309
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Post by fr8kar on Dec 23, 2019 11:29:22 GMT -5
I want to thank Dan for lighting the fire to finish the CAD on these. I know the Rapido model is likely to make these obsolete or irrelevant, but I was so close to the end it seemed silly not to go ahead and finish them up. I'll have to test these bodies for proper fit on the Atlas sill before releasing them for sale, but I feel pretty good about them. BN 4000-4052: shpws.me/REqIBN 4053-4119: shpws.me/REqJ
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pault
Road Foreman
Posts: 57
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Post by pault on Jan 6, 2020 20:12:51 GMT -5
I don't know about anybody else with that CAD rendering sure does look good I'll be considering that when I get done with some of the other priorities I'm working on. By the way does anybody know about the train board having someone kitbash a gp49? I know you can join but they're way too expensive for my pocketbook I'm hoping somebody May have some leads on it thank you in advance keep up the good work guys
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Post by nsc39d8 on Jan 7, 2020 19:29:42 GMT -5
Athearn has produced the GP39X/GP49 in Southern and Norfolk Southern.
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fr8kar
Chairman
Little man raise the cotton, beer joints get the money
Posts: 309
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Post by fr8kar on Jan 7, 2020 23:09:03 GMT -5
Athearn has produced the GP39X/GP49 in Southern and Norfolk Southern. And MKT (finally!). I need to get another one or finish my kitbash.
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fr8kar
Chairman
Little man raise the cotton, beer joints get the money
Posts: 309
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Post by fr8kar on Jan 7, 2020 23:13:47 GMT -5
I don't know about anybody else with that CAD rendering sure does look good I'll be considering that when I get done with some of the other priorities I'm working on. By the way does anybody know about the train board having someone kitbash a gp49? I know you can join but they're way too expensive for my pocketbook I'm hoping somebody May have some leads on it thank you in advance keep up the good work guys I'm going to order the B30-7A1B body in a few days. I should have it by the end of the month. Hopefully breaking down the body to several parts will reduce the tendency of larger parts to warp. Also, I hope I found all the mistakes I made in the model. At one point I realized I had mirrored the grabs on the rear, which caused me to discover I'd also forgotten the sand valve doors and X panels on the rear. I'm sure there are other things I missed, but I'll just have to find them when the parts arrive.
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eagle15
Probationary Member
Posts: 10
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Post by eagle15 on Jan 25, 2020 22:41:33 GMT -5
Thanks for everyone's input. RCH I would definitely have to say your CAD drawings look really sharp. If you came up with a flat body kit like what is shown on Shapeways that I would be in for a couple of them. RCH if I read this correctly than if you came up with the kits for these it would be for the Atlas B-30-7? Would any of the Proto power chasis work? If so I guess I will have to start looking for a couple of them. Dan
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fr8kar
Chairman
Little man raise the cotton, beer joints get the money
Posts: 309
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Post by fr8kar on Jan 26, 2020 19:46:51 GMT -5
Hi Dan. Yes, I designed flat kits to be used with the Atlas B30-7. You should be able to place the completed body on an Atlas B30-7 sill (modified to remove the seats and fill in the slots where the cab attaches) and it should be a drop-in fit. I have a B30-7A1B body kit that's supposed to be arriving tomorrow, but I have to work in the afternoon so I probably won't see it until Tuesday. Looking at the production dates and the photos I have seen, all signs point to the BN B30-7AB and B30-7A1B sill being 61'-2" overall with 36'-8" truck centers, which is consistent with Phase 3 construction. Atlas did not make this version, but this matches the Rapido B36-7. Atlas made Phase 1 and Phase 2, both of which are 62'-2" overall, but Phase 1 has 36'-2" truck centers and Phase 2 has 37'-2" truck centers. You can see the difference on the Atlas sills by the placement of the jacking pads. I have an old Rail Power shell that I built up as a B30-7AB using the Smokey Valley parts, though I just used an Athearn U33B drive and didn't modify it. I believe the Proto Power chassis was intended to provide a chassis that fit the RPP shell with the correct wheelbase. Comparing the RPP shell to the Atlas sills, they all share the same overall length of 62'-2" but the jacking pads on the RPP shell don't match the spacing of the Atlas sills. I think the RPP shell may have the truck centers of a Phase 3 unit but the overall length of either Phase 1 or 2, so not a match for anything I'm aware of. If the extra foot in overall length doesn't bother you, then the shell should fit either Phase 1 or Phase 2 Atlas sills without any trouble. I suspect you could modify an RPP shell so all that's left is the equivalent of the Atlas sill and the printed shell kit should be a decent fit for that. Of course, you'll need the Atlas B23-7/B30-7 radiator frame and etched part, which are not included with the printed shell, but those parts can be found on the Atlas website and on ebay. If the overall length is a sticking point for you, there's a couple ways to address it. What I've done is remove 6" from each end of the Atlas sill right next to the stepwells then reassemble the parts and reshape the stepwell angles at the front with the sharper/more vertical angle. This doesn't address the rear jacking pad, which should be moved aft 6" if you're using a Phase 1 sill or forward 6" if you're using a Phase 2 sill. I think I can probably cut the sill in a way that allows me to flip the cutout jacking pad parts from left side to right side and vice versa so that I can address the jacking pad location, but I'm not sure I'm going to do it yet. At this point I'm more interested in the fit of the printed shell and the accuracy of the details. The shortened sill requires either modifying the Atlas frame by taking 6" off either end or cutting and splicing the frame to correct the truck centers. Or you can use a 3D printed frame I designed. I used it on my B36-7 model: You can see I didn't address the rear jacking pad location on this model and the rear truck center sits aft of the jacking pad. I didn't realize what a difference it would make at the time, but it sticks out to me now. I ended up powering the model with a Kato motor, Athearn trucks and Athearn hex shafts. The printed frame is made of nylon and it's designed to accept an Atlas B30-7 fuel tank. Unfortunately, I can't find those parts available separately anymore, so I had to design a compatible fuel tank to 3D print as well. Another point about the nylon frame is that it can't really accept much more weight than the motor, so it's really light. I addressed this by applying self-adhesive tire weights on the inside of the shell. Some of them have fallen off, so I've had to go back and glue them in place. The takeaway here is don't rely on the double sided tape to hold the weights in place forever. Later on I filled up the inside top of the shell with lead shot and glued it in place. The lead shot makes the shell very heavy but the shell puts its weight on the area around the bolsters and couplers so the weight doesn't cause the fuel tank area to sag. If you were to fill the fuel tank with lead shot there would be significant sagging of the frame in this area. On this model I used Smokey Valley FB-2 sideframes - which I hate, by the way - but included in the order that's supposed to arrive tomorrow from Shapeways are some sideframe adapters I designed to allow me to use the Atlas FB-2 sideframes on Athearn Blomberg trucks. If they are successful I'll enable them for sale. I apologize for hijacking this thread with my BN twinkie 3D printing saga! I'll start a new thread when I get the project going and hopefully this one can get back to the subject of casting parts. I'd love to learn casting myself. I'd rather pay a little more for a more detailed printed model that I can use as a casting master than to have to continue to use Shapeways. Hopefully Rapido has heard our cries for models of these B units and we can get something in highly detailed RTR form soon.
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EMDX6043
Chairman
Future ex-modeler
Posts: 837
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Post by EMDX6043 on Jan 27, 2020 7:02:34 GMT -5
Ryan,
I have no real experience with 3d printing and design, but a quick browse on Shapeways shows that steel is now an available material. I don't know if your plans are compatible with that printing process so I'm just thinking out loud, but it seems like that would eliminate the frame sag and add overall weight to the project. A win-win if possible. You've got way more patience than I do!
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fr8kar
Chairman
Little man raise the cotton, beer joints get the money
Posts: 309
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Post by fr8kar on Jan 27, 2020 9:34:49 GMT -5
Ryan, I have no real experience with 3d printing and design, but a quick browse on Shapeways shows that steel is now an available material. I don't know if your plans are compatible with that printing process so I'm just thinking out loud, but it seems like that would eliminate the frame sag and add overall weight to the project. A win-win if possible. You've got way more patience than I do! I've checked the metal material options and they don't work for me in terms of cost or tolerances. They are fine for small jewelry items but not for a frame unfortunately.
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Post by jbconn on Oct 2, 2020 13:02:05 GMT -5
.... Or you can use a 3D printed frame I designed. I used it on my B36-7 model: Regarding the 3D printed frame, which plastic material did you use and from which print service? Do you have enough experience with this model by now to form an opinion about durability of a plastic frame? I'm running onto a similar issue with plastic vs steel. The steel frame is expensive and wall thicknesses are marginal in several important areas.
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