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Post by icghogger on Dec 12, 2018 8:16:30 GMT -5
Great information, Jim, Thanks for sharing with us!
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Post by big train james on Dec 13, 2018 21:11:25 GMT -5
Ian, Here's a link to dropbox for some quick sketches with dimensions for the various components. Obviously, adjust the overall dimensions to account for the hood opening on the Athearn shell. One other note, the cores slope to match the angle of the top of the hood. The core has a rectangular section. The top surfaces slope down, away from the center. The outward facing vertical faces slope back in toward the center. That may or may not be obvious from the previous photos. Now for some other thoughts. Have you considered getting your hands on one of the newer Athearn shells and making a mold from that? If you did it right, you could end up with examples of all three lengths to put together any way you liked. Just an out-loud thought. I know someone that has one you could borrow, as long as you promise to give it back. Next, where did you source your punches for the bolt heads? I've looked at the sets from Micro Mark but they do not seem small enough even for what I need in O scale, let alone HO. I would go this route for a lot of projects if I could get punches that were the right size or close to it. Jim
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Post by icghogger on Dec 14, 2018 9:11:13 GMT -5
Jim, you can find hex punch & die sets at UMM-USA. The RP Toolz set numbers are RP-LHEX and RP-HPD. The UMM-USA set number is MN-031. There are also other sets with round, square and triangular shapes. I have a couple of these and they will punch really nice hex bolt heads. Be warned, the small sizes are very delicate. I use an arbor press, not a hammer, as I have bent the smaller punches and had to buy replacements. All of these sets are very expensive.
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Post by big train james on Dec 14, 2018 15:33:08 GMT -5
Robert, thanks for the lead on UMM-usa. I should have looked around there as I've bought saws and blades from them more than once. Doh! I'll take a look this weekend.
Jim
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Post by firstout on Jan 23, 2019 22:54:35 GMT -5
Well I have decided it will be BN 300. I have it detailed out and ready for primer. Matthew; Any update on this project. I bought a bunch of etches from KV Models - a pleasure to deal with and fast shipping to Australia too. Did you do the radiator on your model? From what I can see you need to leave the central part in (down the long axis of the loco) and then apply the PE over it. I've decided to scratchbuild the radiators. Wondering if anyone has a photo of the things somewhere so I can bash a fairly (easy) realistic version of it? Seems I remember someone posting this somewhere on the forum but for the life of me I can't find it. Andrew, I hope to be posting some new pictures shortly. Been working on the handrails in what spare time I have. No I didn't attempt to do the radiator cores.
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iandrewmartin
Engineer
Last mile, first mile, where the real railroading happens
Posts: 35
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Post by iandrewmartin on Jan 26, 2019 1:29:50 GMT -5
Have you considered getting your hands on one of the newer Athearn shells and making a mold from that? If you did it right, you could end up with examples of all three lengths to put together any way you liked. Just an out-loud thought. I know someone that has one you could borrow, as long as you promise to give it back. Next, where did you source your punches for the bolt heads? I've looked at the sets from Micro Mark but they do not seem small enough even for what I need in O scale, let alone HO. I would go this route for a lot of projects if I could get punches that were the right size or close to it. Jim Jim; Being in Australia means that I have to scratchbuild. (There are some things I miss from living in Texas - modelling suppliers especially.) Everything is either too bloody expensive or the cost of shipping from the Con-US (which is outrageous now) pushes the cost of the project out of reach. As for punches I use three types: Waldron Products for round punch items: (Both now sold by Kitlinx) For Hex punches I use a Historex Hex Punch and Die set (1/16", 0.050", 0.035", 0.028"). Unfortunately these are now out of production. However, RPToolz has two great Hex sets (which I'd love to buy when I get some modelling money) - available here you'll need to translate the page though - based in Hungary. Pretty sure you can get them in your country of origin though. In addition I have a set of beading tools from Esslinger that are normally used in Bead making (duh right?) that I use to create very small rivet heads, and bolt ends for placing in the centre of the hex nuts (for those times when my rivet counting tendency goes nuts). Hope that this gives you some ideas. There's lots out there but they are mainly used by Armour modellers. Still they are big metal objects that run on tracks so maybe not so far off from what we do right? Later
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iandrewmartin
Engineer
Last mile, first mile, where the real railroading happens
Posts: 35
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Post by iandrewmartin on Jan 26, 2019 1:33:16 GMT -5
Jim, you can find hex punch & die sets at UMM-USA. The RP Toolz set numbers are RP-LHEX and RP-HPD. The UMM-USA set number is MN-031. There are also other sets with round, square and triangular shapes. I have a couple of these and they will punch really nice hex bolt heads. Be warned, the small sizes are very delicate. I use an arbor press, not a hammer, as I have bent the smaller punches and had to buy replacements. All of these sets are very expensive. ichogger; I should have read your post first regarding the punch and die tools. UMM is the bomb. Jim; Use the UMM site they have everything I've mentioned.
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iandrewmartin
Engineer
Last mile, first mile, where the real railroading happens
Posts: 35
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Post by iandrewmartin on Jan 26, 2019 1:35:04 GMT -5
Andrew,
I hope to be posting some new pictures shortly. Been working on the handrails in what spare time I have. No I didn't attempt to do the radiator cores. THanks mate; I'll look forward to them
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Post by big train james on Jan 26, 2019 12:31:14 GMT -5
Thanks for the leads Andrew. I've looked at the RPToolz stuff previously. I will need to check out the beading tools though.
There is an incredible wealth of knowledge and info and methodology from the military modeling field that we should start to tap into. Those guys do some nutty stuff.
Jim
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iandrewmartin
Engineer
Last mile, first mile, where the real railroading happens
Posts: 35
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Post by iandrewmartin on Jan 27, 2019 10:45:56 GMT -5
Thanks for the leads Andrew. I've looked at the RPToolz stuff previously. I will need to check out the beading tools though. There is an incredible wealth of knowledge and info and methodology from the military modeling field that we should start to tap into. Those guys do some nutty stuff. Jim I've only been a model railway club member at one club, but have always been a part of either an Armour club or general modelling lcub for the ideas I get for railway modelling.
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Post by firstout on Apr 20, 2019 15:03:16 GMT -5
Update on the BN 300. Handrails are mostly done. Still have to cut out the MU walkways and install the safety chains. I also have to do the headlights and install the led's for those. BN SW1500 #300 by M B, on Flickr
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