usmc03
Probationary Member
Posts: 8
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Post by usmc03 on Mar 15, 2017 11:23:30 GMT -5
With an athearn genesis gp38-2. I'm looking to upgrade burnt out incandescent bulbs and add ditch lights using surface mount LEDs. Is there a write up for this? Or which direction should I go? It's DCC.
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EMDX6043
Chairman
Future ex-modeler
Posts: 837
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Post by EMDX6043 on Mar 16, 2017 7:14:17 GMT -5
I've gotten pre-wired "golden white" LED's from Ulrich Models, but since they closed down (as far as I know) you can get them from Richmond Controls. Others may prefer a different vendor or approach, but I like them because they save me the time of trying to solder everything together, and for me it's worth the extra cost. So anyway, your installation will depend on whatever prototype you're trying to do (pilot vs deck mounted), but the most important things are to 1-not get the wires pinched between the frame and shell, 2-bound up in the drive train, 3-no wires visible in the cab. Deck-mounted is probably easiest and most durable, but if you chose pilot-mounted the magnet wires are small enough to not be noticed if they're run down the backside of the ditch light casting and into the shell (thru the walkway). On KATO units, I've always milled two channels into the frame for the wires so they don't get pinched and cause intermittent problems. It's probably a good idea to do that with any install so the shell sits properly too. I also like to use small diameter heat shrink tubing (as-is, not heated!) super glued inside the shell as a "non metallic conduit" to keep wires away from moving parts. Oh yeah...If your DCC decoder has outputs available for extra lighting, figure out if you'll need resistors (one per LED, of the proper resistance-usually 1000 ohm 1/4 watt). Certain NCE decoders have them built in, as do ESU boards. NCE requires that you cut the trace or something though if I remember correctly. I have two locomotives in my collection with constant (non-alternating) ditch lights, so they're run off ONE function output on the decoder. In hindsight, I should have used two outputs so that alternating and non-alternating ditch lights become a simple reprogramming issue and not one that requires tearing the whole thing apart. You know you're doing it right when they behave like a MARS light! The manufacturer of your DCC decoders should have good information available in their manuals. They're all a little bit different, but the concepts are the same. As far as I know, MTH is the only non-NMRA conforming manufacturer right now. My favorites are NCE (when I was non-sound), and now ESU for sound. In fairness though, I haven't bought any of the new Soundtraxx stuff but compared to the old Tsunami sounds, there's just no comparison to ESU. If you really wanna go pro, get the LokProgrammer for ESU...it's almost as big of a difference as DC vs DCC. Simply incredible! I'm rambling...good luck and don't be afraid to ask more questions!
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usmc03
Probationary Member
Posts: 8
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Post by usmc03 on Mar 16, 2017 14:45:26 GMT -5
Thanks. It's a NS high hood so they're pilot mounted. The actual running of the wires isn't my concern but more so the fact that I'm using the 402 surface mount leds with 1/4 watt 1000 ohm resistors. When I attach an LED to let's say the headlight terminals, it remains lit and only dims when turned "off". It's a stock athearn genisis w/out sound GP38 that started as a Southern unit so it wasn't wired initially for ditch lights and I'm trying to wire them to a stock athearn light board
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EMDX6043
Chairman
Future ex-modeler
Posts: 837
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Post by EMDX6043 on Mar 17, 2017 7:14:12 GMT -5
From a quick search of the internet it seems that your Athearn board may be putting out 1.5v for the stock bulbs, and not the 3v that you'll need to run the LEDs. There's some discussion on the Atlas forum about it right "here". Another option (which is something I've always done) is to install an aftermarket decoder.
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Post by james13 on Apr 17, 2017 3:56:32 GMT -5
I personally would replace the stock Athearn board with an ESU Select Direct decoder as they have 6 function outputs that are LED ready. I purchase my LEDs either prewired or bare from ebay, I can get 100 warm white LEDs for about $4au which is much cheaper than other places. I have has very good results with the Chinese LED being that is where they all come from anyway. I have done many locos now and as a habbit I replace the Athearn bulbs before the loco even hits the rails these days. Here is an Athearn Guilford GP40-2W that I did just after Christmas. If I am doing a non sound decoder loco I use 1/8 watt resistors also from ebay as the size is half of the 1/4 watt ones and LEDs draw so little current they have no issues.
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