dccrail
Probationary Member
Posts: 12
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Post by dccrail on Feb 20, 2016 6:44:36 GMT -5
So I had to start my thread over. Apparently you can't say anything negative about those cast urethane shells floating out there on eBay. Who knew? So please, if you want me to be able to continue this thread, don't mention it. This forum trims your image sizes down, so if you want to see any higher resolution images of any of this, they are hosted on my wiki: www.dccrail.com/index.php/SD60E_Build. The images of the urethane shells are there as well, but just let the pictures speak for themselves. So I started off ordering one of those cast urethane shells on eBay. I only mention it because it truly is part of this story. But lets just say I changed my mind and instead I ordered a 3D printed cab from NSLurgan on Shapeways. The 3D printing process leaves patterned artifacts, but it looks way better than the urethane shells. The proto 2000 shells have very crisp details, and I think this will be a good fit, even if the artifacts cannot be addressed. So here is the current part list: SD60 Base: Proto2000, Undecorated - eBay ~$100 Cresent Cab: NSLurgan - Shapeways $35 36" Fan: Cannon 1707 - $15 (4 pack) 2x Screen: Cannon 1305 - $3 (4 pack) Here is a pic of the NSLurgan cab after a few light coats of Tamiya Fine Surface Primer
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dccrail
Probationary Member
Posts: 12
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Post by dccrail on Feb 20, 2016 6:46:37 GMT -5
I have been studying pics alot. I may try to make my own cab. Tell me what you think.
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dccrail
Probationary Member
Posts: 12
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Post by dccrail on Feb 20, 2016 6:49:09 GMT -5
Made a jig to support the shell while cutting and filing it.
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dccrail
Probationary Member
Posts: 12
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Post by dccrail on Feb 20, 2016 6:59:29 GMT -5
I am not totally anal about detail down to the last scale inch. Instead, I think the model should have crisp detail, even if not totally correct. So in the cab design I am creating, I want to cover the gap at the front of the shell where it meets the walkway without having to fill it and stand to lose the details of the step tread. Also, I don't want to have to hack the long hood any more than I have to. So I am cheating the dimensions on the cab a little to get it to fit the Proto2000 shell. Here is a test print of the profile for fitment:
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Post by simulatortrain on Feb 21, 2016 0:10:00 GMT -5
Your cab model looks good, but if you print it, there's no way you'll pick up most of that detail.
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dccrail
Probationary Member
Posts: 12
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Post by dccrail on Feb 21, 2016 8:40:33 GMT -5
Your cab model looks good, but if you print it, there's no way you'll pick up most of that detail. I am aware of that. I am actually pretty well connnected to the 3D printing community. I will be removing some of the detail before printing (ie the visors and handrails) - I just modelled them because I can. And its not too far down the road where we WILL be able to 3D print that kind of detail.
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Post by simulatortrain on Feb 21, 2016 18:31:52 GMT -5
Sounds good. I can't wait for the point where we can!
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Post by jmlaboda on Apr 14, 2016 13:11:40 GMT -5
Hmm... nothin' but nothin' is there either...
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dccrail
Probationary Member
Posts: 12
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Post by dccrail on Apr 14, 2016 16:26:14 GMT -5
Not sure what you are not seeing. Works fine from my internet connection.
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