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Post by Deleted on Jun 17, 2015 13:41:25 GMT -5
My work lighting sucks big time and hope to improve that when I get my hobby room built. I never have enough light and therefore I cannot truly see the weathering effects. It pisses me off. My photography is done with two daylight LED lights equivalent to 100w bulbs. I also then use a volcanic heat ray 800 million watt melt your face off tungsten work light. That thing gets supper hot. It puts out a lot of light which allows me to hold it back far enough so I do not melt anything. This is what I use. www.homedepot.com/p/Voltec-500-Watt-Halogen-Portable-Work-Light-08-00209/203749554My camera is just a simple digital camera. Not an SLR type. Just a Simple Cannon with some aperture features and macro features. Nothing fancy. Graffiti is one of those things I do not enjoy. Not because I am against it, but because I cannot recreate it effectively. Graffiti really takes artistic talent. You have to understand the style to be able to create it and I cannot. Decals do not do it justice. Probably the main reason I stopped modeling my Copper State Railway. it was set in modern times and required a lot of graffiti. Not believable if I cannot tie it all together. Also, my favorite era to model is 70's and 80's. You are correct. there is no reason the techniques I use on locomotives can't be used on freight cars. I have been trying to get myself to do that, but for some insane reason I just cannot sit long enough with a freight car to even begin. Here is how long it takes me to get bored with a freight car. I am serious. pull the box off the shelf. Pull the car out. Look at it for about 30 seconds. Put it back in the box and on the shelf. Back to modeling locomotives. I have modeling tunnel vision and I cannot seem to break it. Freight cars frighten me right now and I cannot explain it. Creating the contrast in finishes between the freight car paint and your graffiti paint will really make the model look real. You CANNOT use Dulcote if you are going to use enamels or Ammo of Mig Jimenez for weathering. The solvents will immediately attack the Dulcote and peel it off. You have to finish with acrylic clear coats. AND do not and I repeat, do not believe those that tell you that you can paint your models with a solvent based paint and then create a barrier with an acrylic clear finish to allow you to use solvent based weathering products. Total bunk. Your not putting on a thick barrier layer of clear coat so your solvents will seep through an acrylic and attack your solvent base coats. AS I mentioned, I am not a graffiti era modeler. Thinking out loud here, maybe you can put a clear flat over the model. Then mask off the area you want to graffiti and then spray on the semi-gloss for weathering over. Just a thought. Thinned acrylic paint over a semi-gloss finish will probably not stick well. Most likely puddle and run in capillary action along seems and panels. Your masked area does not have to match your graffiti perfectly either. If you want to learn more about how to use these products. Get on Youtube and look up Ammo of Mig Jimenez. There are a couple of REALLY good videos. These two are excellent. Brilliant and you can really see how the weathering process takes effect. This is a full video showing the weathering process from beginning to end. AK Interactive is his old company. The Ammo of Mig Jimenez is basically the same stuff under a new name and has a lot more products and info to choose from. Using the chipping effect products. Three videos. Gives you and idea of how to use the product. First he painted the base color, then choose either heavy chipping or worn effects. The video starts with him painting on the camouflage over the chipping effects solution. More paint chipping This is a great full length as well about using the AK Interactive products. Again, basically the same as Ammo of Mig Jimenez. So on YouTube, just search Mig Jimenez or Ammo of Mig Jimenez or AK Interactive and you will find MANY weathering videos that show you how to use the products and the results you can expect to get. Not just by Mig, but many others. Some are lame and others are excellent. You can take a bit away from each one.
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Post by analogbeatmaker on Jun 17, 2015 14:56:14 GMT -5
My work lighting sucks big time and hope to improve that when I get my hobby room built. I never have enough light and therefore I cannot truly see the weathering effects. It pisses me off. My photography is done with two daylight LED lights equivalent to 100w bulbs. I also then use a volcanic heat ray 800 million watt melt your face off tungsten work light. That thing gets supper hot. It puts out a lot of light which allows me to hold it back far enough so I do not melt anything. This is what I use. www.homedepot.com/p/Voltec-500-Watt-Halogen-Portable-Work-Light-08-00209/203749554My camera is just a simple digital camera. Not an SLR type. Just a Simple Cannon with some aperture features and macro features. Nothing fancy. Graffiti is one of those things I do not enjoy. Not because I am against it, but because I cannot recreate it effectively. Graffiti really takes artistic talent. You have to understand the style to be able to create it and I cannot. Decals do not do it justice. Probably the main reason I stopped modeling my Copper State Railway. it was set in modern times and required a lot of graffiti. Not believable if I cannot tie it all together. Also, my favorite era to model is 70's and 80's. You are correct. there is no reason the techniques I use on locomotives can't be used on freight cars. I have been trying to get myself to do that, but for some insane reason I just cannot sit long enough with a freight car to even begin. Here is how long it takes me to get bored with a freight car. I am serious. pull the box off the shelf. Pull the car out. Look at it for about 30 seconds. Put it back in the box and on the shelf. Back to modeling locomotives. I have modeling tunnel vision and I cannot seem to break it. Freight cars frighten me right now and I cannot explain it. Creating the contrast in finishes between the freight car paint and your graffiti paint will really make the model look real. You CANNOT use Dulcote if you are going to use enamels or Ammo of Mig Jimenez for weathering. The solvents will immediately attack the Dulcote and peel it off. You have to finish with acrylic clear coats. AND do not and I repeat, do not believe those that tell you that you can paint your models with a solvent based paint and then create a barrier with an acrylic clear finish to allow you to use solvent based weathering products. Total bunk. Your not putting on a thick barrier layer of clear coat so your solvents will seep through an acrylic and attack your solvent base coats. AS I mentioned, I am not a graffiti era modeler. Thinking out loud here, maybe you can put a clear flat over the model. Then mask off the area you want to graffiti and then spray on the semi-gloss for weathering over. Just a thought. Thinned acrylic paint over a semi-gloss finish will probably not stick well. Most likely puddle and run in capillary action along seems and panels. Your masked area does not have to match your graffiti perfectly either. If you want to learn more about how to use these products. Get on Youtube and look up Ammo of Mig Jimenez. There are a couple of REALLY good videos. These two are excellent. Brilliant and you can really see how the weathering process takes effect. This is a full video showing the weathering process from beginning to end. AK Interactive is his old company. The Ammo of Mig Jimenez is basically the same stuff under a new name and has a lot more products and info to choose from. Using the chipping effect products. Three videos. Gives you and idea of how to use the product. First he painted the base color, then choose either heavy chipping or worn effects. The video starts with him painting on the camouflage over the chipping effects solution. More paint chipping This is a great full length as well about using the AK Interactive products. Again, basically the same as Ammo of Mig Jimenez. So on YouTube, just search Mig Jimenez or Ammo of Mig Jimenez or AK Interactive and you will find MANY weathering videos that show you how to use the products and the results you can expect to get. Not just by Mig, but many others. Some are lame and others are excellent. You can take a bit away from each one. This is a lot of excellent information and good ideas...thank you Brian! I'd like to add that I did go to the Ammo of Mig Jimenez website and checked it out already. Good stuff. The colors seem a bit limited though. When I do most fades I mix up a color that matches the color of the faded paint in the same fashion that I do for my graffiti work and I apply it in the same way. Repeated layers until the color transitions. Then I use a damp toothpick and lightly remove the built up paint from the lettering, logos and decals (if used). In the instance of this CSX Geep, I mixed up a yellow for that area and used this process but on the gray and blue areas I just faded lightly with a light tan and gray gouche because those two colors didn't seem to need an actual color shift. If you don't mind, what are your thoughts on creating fades using other acrylic paints if Ammo of Mig Jimenez doesn't offer the color? Do you think any other acrylic would be compatible? It sounds to me like it would unless there is a pigment size difference that could show up. I also want to state that I completely understand the reluctance to attempt hand painted graffiti. It is difficult and tedious to say the least. However, there is another method I've seen that uses self-made decals and hand painting. It looks really great and might be a way for you to accomplish your CSR goal. Have you seen this post? (Click on "post") Make sure you scroll down a ways to see the graffiti example. Thank you again Brian!
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CSX GP-38
Jun 17, 2015 20:11:20 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by simulatortrain on Jun 17, 2015 20:11:20 GMT -5
Thank you from me as well for the info, Brian. The GP38 looks great, too!
I'd just like to ask, what's a good acrylic semi-gloss to start weathering on?
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Post by analogbeatmaker on Jun 17, 2015 21:37:33 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Jun 18, 2015 7:00:31 GMT -5
Nick,
I am not on the Rustbucket forum so I cannot see the post. I think I know what you are referring to though. It is a good idea, but I am past the CSR stage in my modeling. The two models I did for it are sold off.
Yes, you can surely use other acrylics to fade. I use Humbrol enamels. I was using artist oils, but they take way to long to dry. You are definitely thinking in the right direction for using similar colors for fading. I use a more pastel shade of blue to fade. Same concept as what you use.
Adam, I use Testor Model Master Acrylic clear coats. I have all of them. Flat, semi-gloss and gloss. I gloss the model for decaling. After the decals are done and sealed with gloss again, I shoot a flat finish over the model. Then I shoot a semi-gloss. I shoot the flat finish because if I shoot a semi-gloss over the gloss, I cannot see where I may have missed a spot. Shooting a semi-gloss over a flat shows up very well.
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Post by emd16645 on Jun 18, 2015 7:50:12 GMT -5
Brian,
In your posts, you emphasized that some of your weathering techniques require the use of acrylic paints. Does sealing a paint job with acrylic clear coat (which you said you do in your last post) do enough, or will the weathering affect non-acrylic coats below the clear coat?
Also, I'm curious about your comments regarding not sealing your weathering and knowing how to handle your own models to not affect the weathering job. How do you handle your models and not rub off your weathering? Any tips for models that would be used for operations and possibly handled more frequently?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 18, 2015 8:48:35 GMT -5
Chris,
All my base paints are done with acrylic paints. For my Copper State Railway, I used Testors Model Master acrylics. Also for my MoPac models, I use Testors Model Master acrylics. I mix my own colors. I have also used True Color Jenks Blue and found it worked well.
All I can tell you about using an acrylic clear over a solvent base paint is to make sure you have good coverage and allow the clear coat to dry good and hard. Flooding an area with a solvent could (not saying it will), but could seep through to attack the base paint. Myself, I heed no warnings and experiment right on my models. I rarely ever test out a theory on a test model. Always right on the model at hand. Personally if I was set on using a solvent based paint on my models and then clear with an acrylic. I would. Just make sure you get good coverage and allow both the base coat and clear to dry for a while. Now to use the chipping effects though, you HAVE to use an acrylic base paint to get the proper effects to happen.
As for handling my models. I always use cotton gloves when putting them out for an RPM show or when putting them out on a layout. I have gotten very good at putting my models on the rails without touching the trucks. Not to say at times I have to touch the trucks. If I do, it is very gently and minimally. I do not weather under the fuel tank, so when lifting the model, I tilt it sideways and then put one hand under the tank. To steady it while carrying, I put the other hand over the top of the hood and just hold it enough to steady it. The sides of the hoods do not have a lot of pigments on them. So when placing them on the track. I grab at the center of the hood and remove the hand from under the fuel tank. Then place the trucks on the track.
A further note. I say I do not seal my models. I don't, but I do use pigment setting solutions. They do not alter the color after drying. They do set the pigment and pan pastels really good. If you rub hard enough, you can wipe the pigments off. The setting solution does work well. I use pigment setting solutions on the fuel tank, horizontal top surfaces and the truck side frames. I do not use it on hood sides because I do not use pigments over broad areas.
Here is another tip on using pigments. Pigments stick really well to pin washes. I use a #0 round pointed brush. grab a little pigment. Not a lot and add it over the pin wash. It is difficult to add pigments in fine lines, but you can accomplish this. Add the pigment, it will be all over the place in the area you want. GO ahead and brush it in using the paint brush. You will see it grab nicely over the washed area. Blow off the excess making sure you do not spit on it. Use the brush and blend it out. also, you can use an artist kneaded eraser. Form it to a chisel or point and dab at the pigment to remove it where you do not want it to be. Works great for long water drip marks or adding rust pigments in open scares. The way I do this is when I do some chipping and have a larger area of chips that I want to rust, I paint the chipped area with some rust color artist oil. Then dab rust colored pigments into it. The pigments get outside the chipped area and I do not want that. I use the kneaded eraser and form it to a point and pull away the pigments from around the chipped area leaving pigments ONLY over the chip. I let this all dry for a day or two. I then come back with a soft flat brush. Dip it in mineral sprits and tamp it dry. you only want a very small hint of moisture to the brush. Then pull the pigments and artist oil down to create rust discoloration running down.
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Post by emd16645 on Jun 18, 2015 9:23:19 GMT -5
Thanks for the clarification on those points. I ask mainly about the solvent paints because I have collected a large supply of tru-color paints and haven't branched out much from there.
What do you you use for a pigment setting solution? I'm pretty much a novice at the painting/weathering thing, but I'll be looking to a lot more in the future once I get my shop set up.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 18, 2015 10:36:23 GMT -5
I use the setting solutions from AK interactive and now Ammo of Mig Jimenez. I do not know what they are made from. They work well though.
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Post by emd16645 on Jun 18, 2015 12:39:17 GMT -5
Thanks again Brian.
Nick-
Sorry for the diversion here. BTW, that is a sweet looking geep. I'd be doing good if I could get results half that good.
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Post by PVRR 2647 on Jun 19, 2015 20:15:37 GMT -5
Nick~
Congratulations on winning the summer photo banner contest, your work is simply amazing!
Sincerely, PVRR2647
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Post by analogbeatmaker on Jun 21, 2015 19:48:11 GMT -5
Nick- Sorry for the diversion here. BTW, that is a sweet looking geep. I'd be doing good if I could get results half that good. No worries Chris and thank you for the kindness! Nick~
Congratulations on winning the summer photo banner contest, your work is simply amazing!
Sincerely, PVRR2647 Thank you pvrr2647! You are too kind.
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Post by PVRR 2647 on Jun 22, 2015 19:38:53 GMT -5
Nick~
Your work, subject matter, attention to detail, and photography are simply amazing. You truly deserve all the accolades that people give you.
Sincerely, PVRR2647
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Post by jbilbrey on Jun 29, 2015 21:28:26 GMT -5
Excellent Job and a timely project. I picked up an Atlas GP38 in CSX over this last weekend and came here looking for info on detailing it.
James Bilbrey LaVergne, TN
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Post by analogbeatmaker on Jun 30, 2015 17:39:11 GMT -5
Excellent Job and a timely project. I picked up an Atlas GP38 in CSX over this last weekend and came here looking for info on detailing it. James Bilbrey LaVergne, TN Thanks for checking out my thread James! Here is a URL to a thread I posted about the detailing process of this model: dieseldetailer.proboards.com/thread/15041/csx-gp38-2121Good luck! Also, looks like I'm not too far from you...I'm in Ashland City just west of Nashville. Nick~ Your work, subject matter, attention to detail, and photography are simply amazing. You truly deserve all the accolades that people give you. Sincerely, PVRR2647 Again...thank you my friend!
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Post by PVRR 2647 on Jun 30, 2015 18:40:24 GMT -5
Nick~
You're welcome, you have earned it. I just need to convince you to do some YN3 or YN3b schemes! Perhaps a SD40-3 or even a GP40-3?
PVRR2647
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Post by analogbeatmaker on Jun 30, 2015 21:46:20 GMT -5
Nick~ You're welcome, you have earned it. I just need to convince you to do some YN3 or YN3b schemes! Perhaps a SD40-3 or even a GP40-3? PVRR2647 haha 8-)You know, I'd be all about doing one or more of those if I had'em. Maybe I'll get some one day?
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Post by PVRR 2647 on Jul 1, 2015 19:50:07 GMT -5
Nick~
When you do get around to doing one of them let me know. I'd love to watch a master craftmans at work.
Regards, PVRR2647
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Post by jbilbrey on Jul 1, 2015 20:31:33 GMT -5
Excellent Job and a timely project. I picked up an Atlas GP38 in CSX over this last weekend and came here looking for info on detailing it. James Bilbrey LaVergne, TN Thanks for checking out my thread James! Here is a URL to a thread I posted about the detailing process of this model: dieseldetailer.proboards.com/thread/15041/csx-gp38-2121Good luck! Also, looks like I'm not too far from you...I'm in Ashland City just west of Nashville. I was just looking over your in-progress thread. I now need to get the parts needed for the project; I have about half the parts needed already on hand but are missing such details as the bell, spare knuckle holders, and cab vent. There are quite a few things that I apparently missed around 10 years ago when I built an early GP38 (one of the CSX units that was still painted in C&O Blue). Unfortunately, I sold it a little over a year ago when I was downsizng in the hobby and before I took any photos of it. James Bilbrey LaVergne, TN
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Post by analogbeatmaker on Jul 8, 2015 15:26:21 GMT -5
Nick~ When you do get around to doing one of them let me know. I'd love to watch a master craftmans at work. Regards, PVRR2647 I'll do it! Of course I'll always post my builds here as well. I was just looking over your in-progress thread. I now need to get the parts needed for the project; I have about half the parts needed already on hand but are missing such details as the bell, spare knuckle holders, and cab vent. There are quite a few things that I apparently missed around 10 years ago when I built an early GP38 (one of the CSX units that was still painted in C&O Blue). Unfortunately, I sold it a little over a year ago when I was downsizng in the hobby and before I took any photos of it. James Bilbrey LaVergne, TN No photos?!?! Make sure you photo the progress on this one and post it. Good luck James!
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