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Post by NS91 on Dec 27, 2014 14:25:48 GMT -5
I recently won an undecorated Proto 2000 GP18 with non-dynamic brakes on ebay. I did some research on the original Norfolk Southern GP18's that Southern raised the short hood on and designated long hood forward. There was also a air filter hatch added that I will scratch build from .040 stryrene. Here is a link to my prototype. southern.railfan.net/images/archive/southern/gp18/184b.jpgTo get started I filled the factory sunshade holes with Bondo glazing putty. Here is the cab roof filled and a 1/16 hole drilled where the factory horn goes and filled with 1/16 styrene. Next I filled the gab in the door with .010 x .040 stryrene strip. Then I turned my attention to the factory grab iron and eye bolt holes. I glued .015 styrene to the inside of the shell. I also filled the cut bar and MU hose holes. I opened the holes up with a #72 drill bit to accept a .025 rod. I let the glue set up over night, then trimmed the rods. sanded flush and drilled #80 holes for the grab irons and eye bolt. This is as far as I've gotten. I should have some detail parts coming in the mail early next week.
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Post by hotshot3305 on Dec 27, 2014 15:04:28 GMT -5
William, you've been paying attention and you're doing very good. The only thing I would add to what you've done is when you have big holes to fill such as the ones on the roof of your model, first cement in sections of thin styrene, i.e., .010" or .015", sand and then fill with putty and sand again. This will make the filler putty less likely to split, crack or sag when it dries. What brand of putty are you using??
Bob
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Post by NS91 on Dec 27, 2014 15:51:26 GMT -5
William, you've been paying attention and you're doing very good. The only thing I would add to what you've done is when you have big holes to fill such as the ones on the roof of your model, first cement in sections of thin styrene, i.e., .010" or .015", sand and then fill with putty and sand again. This will make the filler putty less likely to split, crack or sag when it dries. What brand of putty are you using?? Bob Mr. Harpe, Thank you for the kind words. I used some of your methods in your GP7 clinic for the horn filler and the holes for the grabs and eye bolts. I used 3M brand bondo glazing putty. I applied it in four very thin layers to gradually build up the cut out for the Proto sunshades. My dad and I both have used it on other models without it cracking. I plan on starting on a GP7 soon and following your clinic. William
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Post by hotshot3305 on Dec 27, 2014 20:44:16 GMT -5
William, you've been paying attention and you're doing very good. The only thing I would add to what you've done is when you have big holes to fill such as the ones on the roof of your model, first cement in sections of thin styrene, i.e., .010" or .015", sand and then fill with putty and sand again. This will make the filler putty less likely to split, crack or sag when it dries. What brand of putty are you using?? Bob Mr. Harpe, Thank you for the kind words. I used some of your methods in your GP7 clinic for the horn filler and the holes for the grabs and eye bolts. I used 3M brand bondo glazing putty. I applied it in four very thin layers to gradually build up the cut out for the Proto sunshades. My dad and I both have used it on other models without it cracking. I plan on starting on a GP7 soon and following your clinic. William William, keep us posted on your progress. Bob
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Post by NS91 on Dec 28, 2014 21:03:38 GMT -5
Mr. Harpe,
It will be a few days before I get to make any progress. I went to the hospital wirh lower stomach pain. I had my Appendix removed this afternoon.
William
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Post by icghogger on Dec 29, 2014 11:24:40 GMT -5
Prayers for a speedy recovery, William.
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Post by NS91 on Dec 29, 2014 19:21:02 GMT -5
Thank you Robert. I'm going home in the morning. It will be nice to get to sleep in my own bed and not get poked and prodded on all hours of the night.
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Post by hotshot3305 on Dec 29, 2014 19:52:33 GMT -5
Mr. Harpe, It will be a few days before I get to make any progress. I went to the hospital wirh lower stomach pain. I had my Appendix removed this afternoon. William William, that is terrible news, but hopefully you're doing much better after the surgery. I'll be praying for your complete recovery and I look forward to hearing from you soon. Bob
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Post by NS91 on Dec 30, 2014 11:33:10 GMT -5
Mr. Harpe, It will be a few days before I get to make any progress. I went to the hospital wirh lower stomach pain. I had my Appendix removed this afternoon. William William, that is terrible news, but hopefully you're doing much better after the surgery. I'll be praying for your complete recovery and I look forward to hearing from you soon. Bob Mr. Harpe, Thank you, that is one thing I really like about model railroaders. We are all like a great big family. I was told if I can have a bowel movement today I'll be able to go home in the morning. I was told by my mother that I have several packages at her house that she collected up for me after my mail had came. I have plenty to do to keep myself occupied while I recover. Thanks. William
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Post by icghogger on Dec 30, 2014 11:38:29 GMT -5
Model Railroading = low impact physical activity, perfectly suited for healing!!
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Post by NS91 on Dec 31, 2014 22:44:29 GMT -5
I got to come home from the hospital and I was able to do a little modeling between my naps. I used a Plano Models Southern GP30 high hood bell bracket with a Utah Pacific bell I had on hand. I don't think it came out too bad considering its my first attempt at the Plano bell. I also drilled the hole for my firecraker antenna.
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Post by NS91 on Dec 31, 2014 23:19:50 GMT -5
After posting those pictures I realized I had installed my bell on the wrong end of my GP18. I was thinking it was my GP7 thats in the works. So I removed it and set it aside for the night. I'll get my thoughts together before continuing.
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Post by icghogger on Jan 1, 2015 10:34:29 GMT -5
Blame it on the pain killers and move on!!
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Post by NS91 on Jan 1, 2015 17:51:19 GMT -5
Blame it on the pain killers and move on!! Robert, That is exactly what I did. I didn't get much done on my GP18 today. I did some research for the air filter. I used an index card to try to get a basic idea of how to construct it. I've gotten the basic idea down in my head on how I want to do it. I've also been thinking about how to install my Cannon fans to this locomotive. I also removed the factory exhaust stack in favor of DA parts since I think they look better. William Have any of you guys added Cannon fans to older P2K locomotives? I've realized that the hole in the shell is large. I was thinking about shimming the hole with a think styrene strip, letting it dry over night then test fitting the fans.
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Post by NS91 on Jan 7, 2015 0:25:50 GMT -5
It was brought to my attention through Mr. Harpe's Yahoo group that without heavy modifications to the battery box area that the P2K GP18 was not correct for the seventeen ex original NS GP18's. There were also some that came from CofGA and the Tennessee, Alabama and Georgia contributed one to the Southern roster. I've chosen to instead model unit 179, the ex TAG unit. I had moved my bell to the long hood in preparation to model an Ex NS unit. I've since removed it from the long hood end and relocated it to the short hood end. I also replaced the grab iron on top of the short hood with a drop style from Cal Scale. Since the Ex TAG unit did not have the louvers on the batter box I carefully shaved them off and filled my little gouge with a little Bondo glazing putty. I also installed the bases for my Cannon and Co fans. I used a .010 x .080 styrene strip to shim the factory fan hole to accept the Cannon fans. I am still waiting for parts to come in. They are coming in very slowly but they are arriving. Ex TAG GP18 179Here is a view of the great Plano Southern bell bracket etch. I'm using a Utah Pacific bell.
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Post by NS91 on Jan 8, 2015 17:16:43 GMT -5
Good new guys. I've found a pretty cheap GP18 high hood on ebay to raid the walkway off. Which is excellent since I can save the high hood for if/when I can get my hands on a low hood GP18 to make into an Ex NS unit.
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Post by NS91 on Jan 24, 2015 14:14:15 GMT -5
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Post by NS91 on Jan 31, 2015 17:57:58 GMT -5
I did a little work today I boxed in the coupler pocket with a bit of .040 styrene, added the "plate" that was added after the ban of the footboards. I also notched to corners of the pilots per the prototype. I will add a Details West coupler buffer plate, then add the last of the delicate parts.
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Post by Randy Earle on Feb 5, 2015 20:24:44 GMT -5
Nice progress. I have a NKP GP-18 under construction.
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Post by NS91 on Feb 7, 2015 15:49:30 GMT -5
Nice progress. I have a NKP GP-18 under construction. Thanks Randy. Do you have any pictures of the NKP geep?
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