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Post by iomalley on Oct 30, 2014 13:54:28 GMT -5
I think the biggest thing that makes the RMs distinctive sounding is the unusual paper intakes where the old dyn brake blister was. The intakes are essentially wide open behind those paper air filters, allowing a louder intake growl than standard GP9s that suck intake air under the hood.
I wouldn't think the 567 vs 645 would garner than much tonal difference in sound, as they only difference is in displacement. The intake/exhaust route is the same.
Also the CN spark arrestors add a slight metallic thunk to the exhaust bark, like someone slamming their palm on an empty 50 gal drum.
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Post by cpcnguy on Oct 30, 2014 16:04:11 GMT -5
So I guess it really doesn't matter which I go with?
On another note, the instructions say to use #79 drill bit in the pin vise for the lift rings, grab irons, and windshield wipers, but the bit is waaaay to big IMO. They seem to float in the holes. Oh well, no going back now!
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Post by CP_8530 on Oct 31, 2014 4:37:10 GMT -5
The Kaslo lift rings are flat etched stainless steel and were a bit too thin for my liking, I replaced them with ones bent from metal wire on my GP9RM. But they work great for holding conduct piping for relocated horns and stuff.
I'd go with a Loksound Select decoder for one without spark arrestors, I've installed them in a GP38-2 and SD40-2F for a friend and they seemed to like them. Their non-turbo 16-645 sounds really great when I played with it. I find the Rapido decoder in my GMD1 doesn't have as much of that classic high-pitched EMD blower whine, but it was recorded from the hood roof of a GMD1 rather than a GP9 or GP38 and has the more prominent thumpa-thumpa sound from the spark arrestors that Sean was mentioning...
Thumpa-thumpa: Rapido GMD1 sound test: And of course, Jason and (the other) Dan recording the GMD1:
Compare those to the sound of an unrebuilt GMD GP9 with its stock 16-567C:
You'll probably also want a narrower speaker, the one that comes with the Loksound Select is a round one and you may be able to fit it in the cab somewhere but may have trouble with the narrow hood. I used a smaller square speaker with enclosure from Railmaster when I squeezed it in the GP38-2 hood.
A Proto 2000 GP7/GP9 with the separate screw-in coupler pockets would be ideal (requires a bit of frame and/or shell mods to fit, and you'll have to remove or heavily mill the weight). The almost identical early LL P2K GP18 chassis would be more trouble than it's worth due to the way the cast-on coupler mounts are and how the coupler pockets are supposed to hold the shell on the chassis.
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Post by cpcnguy on Nov 1, 2014 16:56:33 GMT -5
Interesting. Thanks MrDan! Seems as Loksound select is the more popular choice as of late.
Haven't done much the last couple days. Work seems to be getting in the way of my hobby lol. Also waiting for parts. I hate waiting!
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Post by cpcnguy on Nov 1, 2014 19:40:34 GMT -5
And I'll have to scour ebay for a gp7 or 9.
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Post by emd16645 on Nov 7, 2014 9:39:25 GMT -5
Can anyone recommend the best source for the decals for these?
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Post by iomalley on Nov 7, 2014 11:07:20 GMT -5
Can you hold tight on decals for about a month? I have an excellent announcement for modelers of CN ca. 1961 to 1985....
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Post by emd16645 on Nov 7, 2014 11:21:27 GMT -5
I'm in no rush, shells aren't ready for paint yet much less decals. I also need to build the frames for them as well. Will your decals be applicable to GP9 rebuilds of the early 90s?
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Post by iomalley on Nov 7, 2014 17:15:55 GMT -5
yes, complete with the properly sized gold numbers. MS is too small and the wrong font style. Here's a teaser... Just working out the layers and hopefully making screens in the next week or so. These will be screenprinted, not ALPs. Sorry, didn't mean to hijack your post.....
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Post by CP_8530 on Nov 7, 2014 17:26:14 GMT -5
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Post by cpcnguy on Nov 7, 2014 18:29:53 GMT -5
Woooo! Count me in for some!
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Post by emd16645 on Nov 7, 2014 18:34:32 GMT -5
Looks awesome. Are you printing these yourself, or just doing the artwork?
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Post by jakeloyst on Nov 7, 2014 20:12:31 GMT -5
add my name to the list
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Post by cpcnguy on Nov 10, 2014 22:34:08 GMT -5
I hope your making enough for all of us!
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Post by cpcnguy on Nov 17, 2014 22:38:18 GMT -5
Been busy at work, but have done a few more things to this unit. Anti climbers mounted, steps installed, and cab doors are on. Pictures to follow...
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Post by Milwaukee Road 513 on Mar 16, 2015 3:54:09 GMT -5
What's the latest?
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Post by cpcnguy on Aug 18, 2015 20:47:55 GMT -5
Sorry for the lack of posts guys. Had a "incident" at work with a trespasser and decided to take a break from things. But all is well and I'm ready to get things rolling again, as funds allow ofcourse Here is my list of things to do for this build, I guess more so for myself than others. Acquire decals - Check! Thanks Sean! Acquire p2k gp7/9 for chassis and drive Order extra detail parts (cannon fans, ladder grab irons...) Finish Building!
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Post by cnrkitbasher on Sept 2, 2015 14:22:27 GMT -5
Hi,
Years ago, I kitbashed one of these using a Front Range loco as a start. Lots of work... using the Kaslo shell would have been way easier. I modeled 4132 since it is an ex-NAR unit with the standard louvres on the hood rather than the offset louvre on the CN units to clear the original lettering. I have noticed that 4132 is now the regular unit in Huntsville.
Do you still need a chassis?
I have a LL GP18 (new in box) that I could sell you. I know that someone said that the GP7/9 chassis would be easier, but I don't know that the difference is huge (someone could elaborate more). $50 plus shipping takes it.
I also have some extra Atlas GE U23Bs with the AAR trucks that are the ones to use for the Kaslo M420 and HR412 if you need one (or more) of them for your next project. $75 each, plus shipping.
I believe that you are in Canada (Ottawa?). I'm in London, and I'd rather keep the shipping within Canada to avoid any complications.
Email me if you are interested (or anyone else...). davem (at) Maplewood.com
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Post by iomalley on Sept 2, 2015 20:15:57 GMT -5
Mr. M! Welcome to the DD!!!
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