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Post by tr1 on Feb 3, 2014 13:32:40 GMT -5
After exhausting research, Trapped in what it seemed like a closed loop. I discovered several styles/methods of ditch light assemblies. Including several vendors/styles that may be involved. As of this writing I'll be using variable dc with a Constant lighting circuit. Detailing an AthernGP9.I have several diesels along with a collection of1/4 Watt resistors and some IC 555 timers. I plan to go eventually with DCC in the future. AS for now, I was just wondering, what the preferred method of assembly is? Incandescent or LED surface mount?
Regards, tr1
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Post by Mark R. on Feb 4, 2014 0:32:28 GMT -5
The obvious aspect from the start is physical size. You can get surface mount LEDs in places there's no way you could fit a bulb.
The downside is the fact white LEDs require 3.4 volts to get full brightness, where-as bulbs only require 1.5 volts and are easy to get constant brightness with on DC.
What I have done with DC engines that utilize LEDs, is to install two jumpered bridge rectifiers in series with one of the motor leads to absorb the first 2.8 volts. The motor won't turn until that 2.8 volts is surpassed, at which time, the LED will at least start to light. In another 1/2 volt, the LEDs will be at full brightness, but the engine will be barely moving. A 470 ohm resistor will be fine right up to 12 volts DC. If you don't run your trains like slot cars, a 380 ohm resistor would be good for up to 10 volts and a 240 ohm would be good for up to eight volts. The lower your resistor value, the lower the voltage it will take to come up to full brightness.
When the time comes to switch to DCC, pull out the bridge rectifiers and change the resistor to a higher value.
Mark.
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Post by tr1 on Feb 4, 2014 12:41:55 GMT -5
Mark R. With the resistor values up/\ above are we talking a larger wattage value like a 1/2 Watt as oppose to a 1/4 watt to dissipate the heat? Or doesn't it make that all much difference? Thank you, tr1
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Post by Mark R. on Feb 5, 2014 1:38:27 GMT -5
At 10 volts using a 470 ohm resistor, the led is getting it's full 20ma of current. The wattage of that combination would be about .021 watts, so a 1/4 watt resistor is adequate. Obviously, running at a lower voltage will also lower the wattage. A higher wattage rating won't hurt anything, they are just physically larger.
I always use 1/4 watt myself, and have never had any problems with them.
Mark.
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Post by tr1 on Feb 9, 2014 14:50:54 GMT -5
Newbie. 2) questions on fan removal1.) how is fan removal done ?(technique).2)Venders are there many choice's too choose from ? Thank you, tr1
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Post by tr1 on Feb 10, 2014 22:29:28 GMT -5
I have aspirations to super detail athern diesel shells . My problem is I need some guide lines or instructions to get started. Are there any how too dvd's out there? I picked up a copy of kalmbach publishing detailing diesel's I'll have too look it over again tomorrow, Because today it did not inspire me all that much:( Thank you for any help. Regards, tr1
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Post by james13 on Apr 2, 2015 21:43:30 GMT -5
I use LED's all through out now. I also have all the locos on DCC which is a major advantage. If you can live with the non-constant lighting I would set the locos up in preparation of the fitting of DCC by fitting SMD LEDs. Here is a pic of a P2K KCS SD60 that I am on the process of adding details and ditchlights to.
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Post by chevelleSSguy on Apr 8, 2015 21:25:46 GMT -5
James13. Where do you purchase your LED's from?
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Post by james13 on Jul 24, 2015 18:15:48 GMT -5
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Post by Christian on Sept 19, 2016 18:41:22 GMT -5
I'm all for LEDs too. You can get a pretty good amount of SMT LEDs in various sizes from ebay. I purchased 0503 and 0402, prewired for about 10$ for 20. I use the 0503 for the headlights and the 0402 for ditchlights. That's 4 locos so it's not too bad. For resistors, Soundtraxx recommends mounting 680 ohms resistors. I used 750 ohms and they are pretty bright. Some people uses 1k ohms as well, it all depends on your preferences and for this, you will need to do some testing. I like them bright.
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Post by james13 on Sept 19, 2016 19:16:06 GMT -5
I'm one in the 1k resistor squad. I also use 3.3k and 5.1 for various other things but my favorite trick is to get a 12k resistor and put it from one of the aux functions and run it to the headlights for the dimmer, it works a treat and looks great too.
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Post by james13 on Dec 9, 2016 14:23:44 GMT -5
I have just finished another model with LED lighting, this time I used SMD 0603 LEDs through the whole unit. I installed one LED per light instead of having the headlights share an LED. I also fitted an ESU Select Direct decoder which made the whole install much easier. The boards come ready for LEDs as they have 2.2k resistors on board. Personally I'd have liked 1k resistors but I'm not going to worry about trying to change them.
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Post by ironstef70 on Dec 13, 2016 10:48:07 GMT -5
I'm all for LEDs too. You can get a pretty good amount of SMT LEDs in various sizes from ebay. I purchased 0503 and 0402, prewired for about 10$ for 20. I use the 0503 for the headlights and the 0402 for ditchlights. That's 4 locos so it's not too bad. For resistors, Soundtraxx recommends mounting 680 ohms resistors. I used 750 ohms and they are pretty bright. Some people uses 1k ohms as well, it all depends on your preferences and for this, you will need to do some testing. I like them bright. So 0402, 0503 or 0603 LEDs what is the difference? I use 0402 everywhere (in warm white or orange for beacons), but what makes you chosing 0503 for headlights? S.
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Post by Christian on Jan 30, 2017 11:19:14 GMT -5
The difference is in size. The 0402 are smaller than the 0503, which are smaller than the 0603, etc. I use the bigger ones (0503) for my headlights and reserve the smaller ones (0402) for DL, this way, I'm sure the 0402 will fit in the small space available.
I also use warm white and haven't got a need for orange ones yet.
Cheers,
Chris
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spike
Chairman
They say I can't be Spike anymore, so Mr. Burns it is!
Posts: 561
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Post by spike on Jan 30, 2017 23:53:07 GMT -5
I have gotten the 100 count ebay smd leds for about $10, along with magnet wire. Soldering them together has been fairly easy. This has been surprisingly easy, and I'm a klutz.
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Post by james13 on Apr 10, 2017 6:26:47 GMT -5
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Post by james13 on Apr 17, 2017 3:33:23 GMT -5
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Post by james13 on Sept 3, 2017 6:10:17 GMT -5
Here's another one just off the workbench. This is an Auscision A class from the second run just released, the model was lacking ditchlights so I added some as per the prototype. I also changed the headlights, markers and numberboards to the same LEDs so the colour matched throughout.
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