dekon
Staff Member
Posts: 634
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Post by dekon on Sept 6, 2012 16:42:52 GMT -5
OK, so I really want to make the lone RSD-17. I am going to use Broadway's RSD-15 to start. What I want to do is the later version with the chopped nose. I am trying to figure out how to do the nose and long hood ends. I need to take the notches out of them. I was looking for a Kalso low nose RS-18 convesion figuring I could cut the extreme front off and graft it onto the BLI nose. I can not find one. As to the rear of the long hood, I do not think anyone makes a notchless end. Am I mistaken? So, what would you do?
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Post by iomalley on Sept 6, 2012 22:00:03 GMT -5
Fill them with styrene and filler. MBE makes brass inserts, but they may not be a perfect fit for the RSD, as they were made for RS11s.
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Post by T on Sept 7, 2012 10:29:34 GMT -5
Wasn't she known as the Empress of Agincourt?
Tom
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dekon
Staff Member
Posts: 634
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Post by dekon on Sept 7, 2012 10:51:00 GMT -5
Wasn't she known as the Empress of Agincourt? Tom Yes |
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Post by CP_8530 on Sept 7, 2012 11:37:53 GMT -5
PMI makes a low-nose RS18u cab/nose, you may be able to salvage the cab front/numberboards and other parts from it.
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Post by iomalley on Sept 7, 2012 13:50:32 GMT -5
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Post by m636 on Sept 7, 2012 23:01:39 GMT -5
Hi may able to help you out . I made a lots of parts for my RS-18 kits and some of them are good to modified your RSD-15 to RSD-17. I have some hood wrongly casted but the hood end are good, Low nose and front cab wall, Battery boxes. air tanks, and more. Have a look to this thread and let my know if you are interested. dieseldetailer.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=emlw&action=display&thread=3982Éric |
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dekon
Staff Member
Posts: 634
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Post by dekon on Sept 8, 2012 8:59:25 GMT -5
Eric, sent you a PM.
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dekon
Staff Member
Posts: 634
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Post by dekon on Feb 1, 2015 13:46:04 GMT -5
Getting ready to finally start this project. Still have to figure out how to model the hood ends and cab(can not find a PMI kit as suggested). I HATE using styrene but I guess I am going to have to give it go in order to fill the notches. If anyone else has some suggestions I am all ears.
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Post by tjmfishing on Feb 1, 2015 16:39:05 GMT -5
Check out Chris Mears Shapeways page. He mentioned to me he was going to do the short nose for 8921 (I remember it well as 8921 is my least favorite Canadian diesel that MLW made  ) I've used the styrene method with much better success than the brass pieces (1757 below was done with styrene) but Chris also did at least the correct long hood end for 8921.  |
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Post by Eccentric_Crank on Feb 1, 2015 19:00:45 GMT -5
Getting ready to finally start this project. Still have to figure out how to model the hood ends and cab(can not find a PMI kit as suggested). I HATE using styrene but I guess I am going to have to give it go in order to fill the notches. If anyone else has some suggestions I am all ears. I use non-stretchy tape around the end of the vertical surfaces to create a dam. Rub it down well around the edges. I then fill the pocket created with epoxy. this preserves the non compound curves of the hood except for the top which is easily filed or sanded to final shape. There is almost no need for putty afterwards. This is my favourite method for filling holes left in boilers when changing domes etc. Large holes benefit from laminating the back with saturated cloth or other reinforcing material. Dan M. |
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Post by Canadian Atlantic Railway on Feb 1, 2015 19:10:06 GMT -5
Sent you a pm Dekon.
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Post by iomalley on Feb 1, 2015 22:46:56 GMT -5
I use non-stretchy tape around the end of the vertical surfaces to create a dam. Rub it down well around the edges. I then fill the pocket created with epoxy. this preserves the non compound curves of the hood except for the top which is easily filed or sanded to final shape. There is almost no need for putty afterwards. This is my favourite method for filling holes left in boilers when changing domes etc. Large holes benefit from laminating the back with saturated cloth or other reinforcing material. Dan M. Huh, that's ingenious! I've never thought of that! Going to give it a try on my next RS18! |
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Post by Eccentric_Crank on Feb 2, 2015 0:11:00 GMT -5
Thanks Sean,
The method also makes it easier to drill for number boards, you can see the originals through the epoxy.
Necessity may be the mother of invention, but laziness is the father!
I don't like sanding.
Dan M.
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dekon
Staff Member
Posts: 634
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Post by dekon on Feb 2, 2015 9:31:45 GMT -5
Thanks Dan, that is a great method.
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Post by PVRR 2647 on Feb 15, 2015 18:20:02 GMT -5
Wasn't she known as the Empress of Agincourt? Tom Yes Gentlemen~
In addition to Empress of Agincourt, I recall hearing that the crews referred to her as vache sacrée.
PVRR2647
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Post by CP_8530 on Feb 16, 2015 0:18:21 GMT -5
Gentlemen~
In addition to Empress of Agincourt, I recall hearing that the crews referred to her as vache sacrée.
PVRR2647
I've heard "Wh*** of Hochelaga" but who's counting. |
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Post by PVRR 2647 on Feb 16, 2015 13:27:47 GMT -5
Gentlemen~
In addition to Empress of Agincourt, I recall hearing that the crews referred to her as vache sacrée.
PVRR2647
I've heard "Wh*** of Hochelaga" but who's counting. MrDan~
I have to admit that made me laugh. At this point I will take Mr. Bunker's advice and stifle myself.
PVRR2647
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MLW RSD-17
Sept 22, 2015 17:35:39 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by pfairfull on Sept 22, 2015 17:35:39 GMT -5
I have an N-Guage version of this unit in CP red.
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Post by mandealco on Sept 22, 2015 18:22:56 GMT -5
Hi pfairfull
As an N-scale modeller, I would love to see your N scale Empress, any photos? It's on my long term list to build or kitbash. From my limited French, I believe, "vache sacrée", means sacred cow! I've also heard the Empress referred to as "The Duke of St Luc".
Cheers
Steve
NZ
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