|
|
Post by analogbeatmaker on Mar 27, 2012 22:35:17 GMT -5
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 28, 2012 2:41:00 GMT -5
WOW! Awesome effort this is one fantastic looking model, best version of this I have ever seen!
|
|
|
|
Post by spud7378 on Mar 28, 2012 6:42:08 GMT -5
wow looks great love the weathering job!
|
|
|
|
Post by nssd70m on Mar 28, 2012 7:25:37 GMT -5
Great job! Looks way better than my 4610. Earl is out...
|
|
|
|
Post by Randy Earle on Mar 28, 2012 10:06:15 GMT -5
Fantastic!!!!
|
|
|
|
Post by analogbeatmaker on Mar 28, 2012 11:14:45 GMT -5
thesd80macbeast: Woah...Thanks! ;D
spud7378: Thanks! I went a bit overboard in a few places trying techniques I read about but I learned what to do/not to do next time.
nssd70m: Thanks! Just curious, do you have a Athearn BB like mine or is yours a different manufacturer. Isn't there a Proto2000 version as well?
RANDY: Thanks!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 28, 2012 13:11:27 GMT -5
No problems, credit where credit due.
|
|
|
|
Post by stewarttrains98 on Mar 28, 2012 15:33:02 GMT -5
looks really great. love the weathering job.
|
|
|
|
Post by royalblue72 on Mar 28, 2012 19:12:08 GMT -5
WOW! Awesome effort this is one fantastic looking model, best version of this I have ever seen! I echo these sentiments! Fabulous model all the way around! |
|
|
|
Post by nssd70m on Mar 28, 2012 20:31:01 GMT -5
thesd80macbeast: Woah...Thanks! ;D spud7378: Thanks! I went a bit overboard in a few places trying techniques I read about but I learned what to do/not to do next time. nssd70m: Thanks! Just curious, do you have a Athearn BB like mine or is yours a different manufacturer. Isn't there a Proto2000 version as well? RANDY: Thanks! My 4610 is a Athearn BB with factory paint. I don't know if there is a Proto 2K version out. Earl is out... |
|
|
|
Post by tamaman on Mar 29, 2012 9:13:58 GMT -5
Nice work, great looking unit. Nice weathering as well.
|
|
EMDX6043
Chairman
Future ex-modeler
Posts: 844
|
Post by EMDX6043 on Mar 29, 2012 15:29:27 GMT -5
That is sharp! Nice work.
|
|
|
|
Post by John on Mar 29, 2012 16:18:49 GMT -5
Love the weathering. Fantastic job.  |
|
|
|
Post by analogbeatmaker on Apr 1, 2012 11:28:26 GMT -5
stewarttrains98: Thank you!
royalblue72: Thanks! You're too kind.
nssd70m: I did some searching and there was/is a Proto2000 model of a GP60 out there. The shell is more correct as well. Also, because the long hood and walkways are two separate pieces (unlike the Athearn BB one piece) I could cut the shell to make it correct to the prototype GP59. I couldn't figure out how to do that to my BB which is why it is incorrect to the prototype. Maybe one day I'll be able to get one of those to try again!
tamaman: Thanks! I'm guessing you're a drummer with a screenname that has "Tama" in it? I'm a drummer as well. Although I use almost all Pearl gear/drums I do have a couple of the Bubinga snare drums that Tama puts out...LOVE'em!
EMDX6043: Thank you!
ajuk: Thanks!
I appreciate all the kind comments everyone and thank you all for taking a few minutes to check out my thread! ;D
|
|
|
|
Post by chessie8553 on Apr 1, 2012 17:01:02 GMT -5
Well for a model with "lot's of flaws in all areas", I could only hope that my flawed models could turn out as good as yours. Great job!
|
|
|
|
Post by mspanton on Apr 10, 2012 10:20:43 GMT -5
Question on the weathering, most apparent in the area painted white.
Often on models, the line between the car body and engine room doors is indistinct, whereas on real locos, even those newly painted, there is a very obvious, but very thin line of shadow that nicely outlines the doors.
It looks to me like you applied some type of light weathering to get the edges of the doors and other appliances to “pop”. The effect is quite obvious on your photo that is being used as the site banner, which in itself is testimony to a well-executed model effort.
Can you describe what you did?
Milt
|
|
|
|
Post by analogbeatmaker on Apr 10, 2012 11:25:53 GMT -5
chessie8553: Thanks! mspanton: Thank you! I have to admit the "technique" I used was trying to save a technique I tried (for the first time) which almost ruined the entire paint/decaling job. Basically, I tried using a India Ink/Isopropyl Alcohol wash to accent all of the seams on the engine. I had used Future Floor Wax to gloss coat the loco after paint to ready it for decals...a technique I have read about on several forums and websites. Once the engine was decaled I started washing the engine with the India Ink mixture. To my dismay, the alcohol in the mix started to cause the floor wax coating to become "wet" again. This caused the ink to mix with the wax. Then it became a fight to get the black waxy mixture to even out and not clump. This caused me to have to use more plain alcohol to thin it. This caused some of the paint to start coming off. This caused me to lose my mind! lol Anyway, after quite a fight and a little touch up painting the result is what you see. I don't really know how to do what I was attempting, obviously. So, my notes on how I did this will NOT work well. If anyone who reads this knows where I went wrong any help/tips would be GREATLY appreciated. Sorry I didn't have a real answer for you.  |
|
|
|
Post by mspanton on Apr 10, 2012 11:45:20 GMT -5
Ah, but you DID answer my question - just don't try the india ink after the Future Floor Wax!
BTW - I know the feeling of causing cascading problems! That's only funny because I've done the same!
Thanks very much!
Milt
|
|
|
|
Post by santafemikie on Apr 10, 2012 14:49:09 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by tjmfishing on Apr 10, 2012 20:30:57 GMT -5
Question on the weathering, most apparent in the area painted white. Often on models, the line between the car body and engine room doors is indistinct, whereas on real locos, even those newly painted, there is a very obvious, but very thin line of shadow that nicely outlines the doors. It looks to me like you applied some type of light weathering to get the edges of the doors and other appliances to “pop”. The effect is quite obvious on your photo that is being used as the site banner, which in itself is testimony to a well-executed model effort. Can you describe what you did? Milt If you have a steady hand use a very sharp pencil to trace the lines. It works great on lighter colours ie whites and yellows |
|
