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Post by grandtrunkfan on Nov 20, 2011 20:23:21 GMT -5
This is my thread for my new build, Mid Michigan Railroad GP9 #24. This unit is an Ex NP locomotive. It has been chopped and hacked up. Im starting with a undecorated P2K GP9 as a starting point. It was a train show special at $40. Heres some pics of the prototype: I was wondering what detail parts I need for this project outside the P2K parts. I know I need a new cab and have been told the Atlas SD26 cab is the clostest thing to it out there. Anyone have a SD26 cab that I could buy off them? Has anyone chopped a P2K Geep out there? How did the results turn out and what parts did you use? Thanks for the help! Nick
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dekon
Staff Member
Posts: 634
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Post by dekon on Nov 20, 2011 21:22:52 GMT -5
The SD26 cab, you can get through Atlas.
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c415rock
Moderator
"Linking the East with the West"
Posts: 1,044
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Post by c415rock on Nov 20, 2011 23:37:07 GMT -5
Hi Nick, It is great to see some Mid Michigan power being modeled. About a year ago I chopped down a Atlas GP7 into a low nose Maine Central unit. As for the cab yes the Atlas SD24/26 would work, but the they only have the one piece windshield cabs in stock, just like the GP20's had. For my unit I used the High Hood cab and a donor Athearn blue box cab, along with Precision Scale EMD number board set #3986 Also Des Plaines Hobbies offer a HO split windshield for chop nose geeps #DPH2005 www.desplaineshobbies.com/store/search.aspWhat I did was cut out the center windshield from the Athearn cab grafted it onto the Atlas High hood cab, then installed the number board to the cab added strips of styrene to the top of the number boards to build it up to meet the cab roof lines. Then sanded the styrene to match the cab profile. One other item you may want to add looking at the prototype photos are the G.R.I.P. door just in front of the cab on the sub base. It is the door which has the two vents on it and is taller compared to all the others. Hi Tech details makes this item #6030 www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/331-6030The snow plow looks to be a Details West #120 The pilot mount lift rings would be Details Associates #1103 Air horn is a Cal Scale #190-427 www.bowser-trains.com/hoother/calscale/Cal%20Scale%20Diesel%20Parts1.jpgSpark arrestors Cal- Scale #190-440 www.bowser-trains.com/hoother/calscale/Cal%20Scale%20Diesel%20Parts2.jpgAnti-climber looks like a Cannon & Company 2103 EMD Dash 2 Anti climber You will also need to make your own handrails for the front I use Precision Scale co. #3937 & 3935 Ditch lights look like Detail Associates #1022 Coupler lift bars is a ARR Type1 Detail Associates #2211 By the way who makes the decals for this unit? I would like to add one to my Michigan RR collection. Hope this helps Erik
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Post by grandtrunkfan on Nov 21, 2011 6:58:25 GMT -5
Wow thank you Erik! Thats a great way to start. Ill be making a list to order my parts. On your chop job, what did you use for the short hood? Did you just shorten the hood that came with the model and sand off un-needed details? This is my first attempt at a hack up job so am very curious and cautious proceeding with this build. You asked about decals, Microscale Railroad Roman font in blue and white is virtually identical to the style they used on 24. Although some other sheets will need to be used. I started building a model railroad based on Greenville, Mi, and this unit was based out of there. I also have Grand Rapids Eastern GP38 5106 on the work bench too but it still sits in its box.
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Post by iomalley on Nov 21, 2011 10:45:49 GMT -5
One spotting feature of this ex-BN unit is the 5 steps up instead of the standard EMD 4... Might want to consider using a Kaslo CP GP9u or Kaslo IC GP10 body kit...just a thought...
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c415rock
Moderator
"Linking the East with the West"
Posts: 1,044
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Post by c415rock on Nov 21, 2011 10:46:46 GMT -5
Hi Nick,
That is exactly what I did. A little trick to get your hood cuts nice and strait is to measure a four or five spots on the hood for your cut line, mark it off with pencil, then take a piece of masking tape to connect the marks and adjust as needed to make a strait line. Then cut along the tape line with your saw.
Erik
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Post by grandtrunkfan on Nov 21, 2011 19:22:36 GMT -5
Thanks for the tip Erik. Do you bychance know another subsitute for the 5 chime K5? I cant find anywhere with that one in stock and no other brand has a K5 like it. Also, you mentioned the Des Plaines Hobbies window inserts, would they be able to be used with the Atlas SD26 single window cab? "One spotting feature of this ex-BN unit is the 5 steps up instead of the standard EMD 4... Might want to consider using a Kaslo CP GP9u or Kaslo IC GP10 body kit...just a thought... " That looks like an awesome starting point! Unfortunately the price of that kit is out of my range right now! On top of what I already know Im going to be putting into this unit.
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Post by grandtrunkfan on Nov 21, 2011 20:56:39 GMT -5
Well tackled what will be the major hurdle in this project and chopped the nose. I cut out the center section of the hood and kept the top and bottom. Not too bad for a rough chop job. It needs some body filler and to be sanded, but I dont think it came out bad at all. I applied my fans and attached the winterization hatch. I really wish I could use the P2K cab, I love the opening doors feature...
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c415rock
Moderator
"Linking the East with the West"
Posts: 1,044
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Post by c415rock on Nov 21, 2011 22:29:39 GMT -5
Hi Nick, Yes the Des Plaines insert would work with the Atlas cab. It will take a little putty work. Also here is the link to Des Plaines page showing the #427 horn in stock. www.desplaineshobbies.com/store/search/brand/Cal%97Scale/page12.html If you want to add the extra step that iomalley pointed out you can double up and order two sets of the Cannon part number 2022 Engine Step Set (Photo-Etched Brass) -- For Proto 2000 GP7, 9, 18 & 20 that way you can add the extra step if you want. Erik
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Post by ssgburme on Nov 22, 2011 10:24:49 GMT -5
Cannon and Company # SS-2022 comes with an extra step. spacing from the top down is 12" to 13" between steps, it varies even on the same units. I got a picture of a chop nose a month or so ago, the short hood was cut at the top of the battery boxes and then lowered ( thems was some purty ugly welds) Karl
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Post by grandtrunkfan on Dec 22, 2011 21:21:54 GMT -5
That Cannon set you mentioned, is there enough there for the entire locomotive, or is it one end? Ive never bought their parts before.
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Post by gnsteve on Jan 2, 2012 23:29:41 GMT -5
Sorry I missed your 11/21 post. If a P2K GP20 low nose cab would work for you, I have one I'll send you for the postage cost.
Steve
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Post by grandtrunkfan on Mar 8, 2012 18:42:51 GMT -5
Steve, sorry its been so long since Ive been here, Id love the GP20 cab. I think it would work just fine. Do you still have it?
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Post by gnsteve on Mar 9, 2012 1:35:43 GMT -5
Nick, yes I still have the low hood and cab. A USPS small priority mail box may be the way to get them to you. PM me with your address and I'll get them in the mail.
Steve
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Post by grandtrunkfan on Mar 12, 2012 18:59:50 GMT -5
Thanks to Steve, it has a good looking cab that fits right into the body! I still need to use my own chopped nose though. I forgot GP20s had such a slanted nose.
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Post by tcline on Apr 4, 2012 2:04:18 GMT -5
Really cool project. Almost 20 years ago I modeled the MMRR 5967 with an Athearn blue-box GP-9 (only thing available at the time), after a very lucky cab ride on that engine from Lowell to Elmdale and back. There were decals available (don't recall the outfit now, I found them at Riders in G.R.), but that engine is still with me somewhere packed away in boxes. Sure was a sharp paint job on that 5967. I have often wondered what happened to that unit. Seems it "went away" sometime in the mid-1990's. Of course now, the tracks are gone as well. Not to get on a soapbox now, but I just have to wonder about the future. When diesel fuel hits $10.00/gal. and it costs more to truck goods than they are worth, what is going to happen? Are they going to try to rebuild the lost rail infrastructure? Probably not. What is lost now is most likely gone for ever. The price for moving your groceries will just get passed along to you, the consumer. That's why it really burns my ass every time I see rail being pulled up. This current mentality has NO grasp on the long-term effects of railroad retrenchment. I could go on here for a long time, but I'm preaching to the choir. Todd
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Post by grandtrunkfan on Apr 13, 2012 17:12:41 GMT -5
Todd, would you want to sell that 5967 model bychance?
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Post by bf1982 on Oct 29, 2012 1:00:13 GMT -5
Nice work! Hope to see some updates soon. I remember seeing that loco pass through my town (Merrill, MI) as it worked the old CSX line between Saginaw and Alma hauling mostly covered hoppers.
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Post by grandtrunkfan on Nov 3, 2012 15:31:46 GMT -5
Nice work! Hope to see some updates soon. I remember seeing that loco pass through my town (Merrill, MI) as it worked the old CSX line between Saginaw and Alma hauling mostly covered hoppers. Once I get my Grand Rapids Eastern locomotive done, I will be turning to MMRR 24 next.
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Post by grandtrunkfan on Apr 15, 2013 23:27:14 GMT -5
Getting back to work on this unit after a long hiatus. I added the eye bolts, antenna, and rear grab irons. I should have used wire grab irons because I think the P2K style are too chunky. I opted for Cannon and Co. eyebolts. I have a package from Des Plains comming this week, with a ton of goodies for this locomotive, except the one part I wanted... They were out of stock on the DPH2005 split windshield. Any ideas for a subsitute? What I do have comming is lift rings, the horn, the spart arrestors, anticlimbers, and the photo etched stairs so I can add the extra step. I was also able to get a pair of ditchlights, but I think theyre going on my GRE GP38 for now. Heres an in progress pic: Im still working on my chop nose. I still dont like it. Possibly going to buy another hi hood and try it again because Im not happy with how it turned out.
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