TP&W GP38-2

[c415rock]

Hi guys here is a Atlas trainman I had laying around that I decided to do in TP&W as delivered. I only had to add 4 detail part to it, that I had left over from previous build to make a prototype. The parts were a all weather window, cab shade, anti-climber and front hand rail from the parts bin. Even if I had to buy the parts it would still be well under $100.00 . I know the handrails are thick but this was a quick cheap build using a surplus locomotive. Plus this unit also goes under the rescue category as this was the subject of my (has this ever happen to you question last week) So after a trip to the dunk tank I completely repainted the entire unit stripes and all, no decals this time, except for the road number and logos.

Enjoy
Erik

[icghogger]

Looks real nice to me, Erik!! And if it's a good runner, that's even better!

[spud7378]

great job on the stripes and the unit

[antlorch]

Fantastic on the paint for sure.

You should do a modern engine like a SD60,or SD70M. If you look in the colorin paint of the forum I did a SD70MAC,SD45-2,and a SD70B unit in the TP&W...

[tpwillie]

Nice looking unit. What did you use for the red paint? Is that a "Cat" RS11 in the background?

Lou

[c415rock]

Lou

The white is Tamiya flat white XF-2
The Red is Badger Amtrak Red 16-58

With that said the next units I do I am going to use Badger Frisco Orange 16-157

I personally think it looks closer to the TP&W orange witch is called International Safety Orange on the drift cards that I have seen for the TP&W.

Yes that is a Cat Alco there are photos of it in the Alco section of the DD.

Erik

[tpwillie]

Erik,

Microscale says to use Badger 132 but I can't find out what it is and the number is not shown on any of their paint chips. There was a difference in the paint on the units with the GP38-2 redder than the earliwer units, although it may have been fading. The last units with the Cooper Black logo were more of an orange.

Rick Galazzo of Tru-Color paint suggested CN red/orange and add a small quantity of Rio Grande orange until you get the desired color. I haven't tried that yet.

Lou

[bp125v]

Looks great Erik, how did you mask off the curved stripes on the nose?

thanks,
Bill

[c415rock]

Bill I took the decal set and photocopied it, cut out the stripes and traced them on top of masking tape. Then applied the tape to the nose.

Erik

[sprailtrax]

Nice job on your GP38-2 there Erik. I note the Angled Air filter box on the hood roof just in front ot the forward exhaust stack. Is that a feature of the Atlas Trainman late phase GP38-2 model or did you add that part?
Anyway the colors are spot on & your model Superb.
Thanks

[Randy Earle]

If I may, that's the standard filter box on the Atlas unit.

[c415rock]

Randy is correct the only thing I changed was the anti-climber. The Atlas comes with a square anti-climber.

Erik

[bp125v]

I plan on painting several TP&W units and quite frankly I am confused by the red. I have seen some color photos where the engines look the same color as Erik's above, have seen some pics where they are even brighter and almost a neon red, and yet other pics like in my McMillan High Green to Marcelline book where the red is more "red" and less orange-ish. Did they get darker over time? Based on the dates of the pics it would seem that way. Anyone have any insight to this?

thanks, Bill

[tpwillie]

Bill,

There are at least 3 different red colors, at least on the locomotives. The units that were originally in the green scheme were painted red by the shops, also 1000 which was black was painted red in the shop. The GP38-2s and the SW1500s were painted at EMD, although 303 and 304 were later repainted in the shops. The EMD and shop paint were close but did look different. To my eye the EMD paint had less orange.

401, 901 and 600 were repainted in the shop in the Cooper Black scheme. With fresh paint, these appeared, at least to me, to be very orange. I believe this was due to the use of Imron paint.

Reds are often color shifted in processing and prints and slides can change color rendition. I would suggest that you find 3 or so picturs of the units you are interested in and match your paint color to them.

Good luck and I look forward to seeing your finished work.

Lou

[bp125v]

Another question for Erik,

How did you number the number boards? The numbers on them look nice and even. Were the individual digits applied separately or were you able to get 2011 in single decal?

thanks,
Bill

[c415rock]

Bill thanks for the nice comments on the number boards. They are pieced together from the Micro scale set. I like to cut out the decal wet it in distilled water. I then prep the number board with Micro set. then slide the numbers in place and use a Q tip to blot up the excess water and position the number with point of the tweezers. If the numbers start to dry use a little water to re-wet so you can reposition them. After they dry I brush Micro sol to set the decals.

Hope this helps If you have any other question just ask.

Erik

[zakc]

Looks good