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Post by Kiro on Dec 15, 2009 22:33:36 GMT -5
Kiro, if you want to take on an extra challenge, you could cut a strip between the radiator grills on top to separate them, like you see on the RTR models. To take that further would then require a thin batten strip with bolt heads to go between the separated grills. I've been thinking about doing that process to upgrade (hopefully not ruin) my older BB models, but that's a lot riskier than simply replacing the fans and exhaust stacks with new Cannon parts. Your series of pictures show what can be done with the BB models. Great work! Thanks for posting. Thanks! ;D Well, to be honest, I though on what you mention, but.... I did not want to ruin the model because I think it is a very very difficult work to be done. One of the reasons is because the plastic is very sensitive and the grills up there are also very delicate, a missplaced cut and the shell is done.
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Post by icghogger on Dec 16, 2009 10:08:34 GMT -5
Kiro, If either Peter or you decide to do the batten strips, RFMP has an etched brass batten strip that is quite nice, or you can do what I have done. I used styrene strips bonded to the car body to form the battens and applied the Archer 3D bolthead decals to represent the bolts. I used the Archer N scale rivets on my HO battens to get the correct size bolt heads. If you wish, I will try to post a photo for you to see how it turned out.
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Post by peter on Dec 16, 2009 19:26:26 GMT -5
Stan, thanks for letting me know that the batten strip product is available. I think the modification might best be done with a single edge razor blade to define the front and back edges of the cut. Having a batten strip (if narrow enough to fit between the separated grills) would give you some margin for error if the process of cleaning out the material between the cuts leaves gouges in the middle. Plastic batten strips that you cut yourself may be easier to work with than etched metal, but the metal would retain a uniform appearance better.
icghogger, I'd like to see how your strips turned out.
Kiro, I would get a "spare" shell and practice this technique at least 2-3 times, and possibly 5-10 times across the grills, before trying it for the first time on a worked up model.
After seeing the RTR models, I've wanted to do this on my older BB models to make them look like they fit in with the RTR ones.
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Post by icghogger on Dec 21, 2009 10:56:36 GMT -5
Peter, here is a shot of the batten strips I made up, using the Archer decals.
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Post by peter on Dec 21, 2009 12:26:26 GMT -5
NICE work! I like the way they complement the strips going down the sides of the engine room doors! Thanks for posting!!
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Post by icghogger on Dec 21, 2009 12:31:18 GMT -5
NICE work! I like the way they complement the strips going down the sides of the engine room doors! Thanks for posting!! Peter, you are welcome. I also used the Archer decals on the side batten strips. The Front Range model did not have any bolt heads cast on that part of the hood.
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deez
Chairman
Midland Belt Railway
Posts: 949
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Post by deez on Jan 4, 2010 18:22:54 GMT -5
Very, very nice model. Gray and Scarlet, Cotton Belt letters, thats what I like!
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Post by duckdogger on Jan 8, 2010 22:40:45 GMT -5
Very impressive; excellent work. Will this unit be displayed or operated?
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Post by Kiro on Jan 9, 2010 12:26:30 GMT -5
Hi, Will be operated and mated with another SD40T-2 which has already been finished, not with the same level of detail though. Both have now Loksound decoders, I am currently working in the internal wiring for the lights. What is pending is to prepare the SV handrail stanchions, a time consuming activity but as soon as this step is finished, the model will be ready for painting. ;D
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Post by stewarttrains98 on Jan 18, 2010 17:42:37 GMT -5
outstanding work so far. Awesome looking and detailed model.
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Post by Jack Napier on Feb 22, 2010 23:56:37 GMT -5
Are you going to do it in 1970's/Early 1980's "Clean Roman," Late 80's/Early 90's "Dirty Roman," or Speed Lettering?
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kcs1967
Chairman
SWLA-SETX PINE SCENTED
Posts: 1,726
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Post by kcs1967 on Feb 23, 2010 23:00:52 GMT -5
WOW!!!! what else can I say, Kiro I must sy we are all honored to have your presence here, Thank you for sharing.
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Post by Kiro on Mar 1, 2010 13:40:55 GMT -5
Are you going to do it in 1970's/Early 1980's "Clean Roman," Late 80's/Early 90's "Dirty Roman," or Speed Lettering? It will be a Cotton Belt # 8376, it is the only I´ve seen with the SP roman lettering in the nose and the Cotton Belt in the hood, during the mid 80´s. Will receive a light weathering though...
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Post by Kiro on Mar 1, 2010 14:16:05 GMT -5
I saw that you filled in the mounting tabs on the side of the shell. How are you attaching the shell to the frame? I have several of the BB SD40T-2 but have not wanted to work with them because I cant figure out the best way to attach the shell to the frame and get rid of those crudy looking mounting tabs. I agree, those mounting tabs are ugly. It is really simple and with a little of patience you can do it in an afternoon. First of all take the DW coupler pockets and work on the coupler openings until they can receive a Kadee box without trouble; then glue the coupler pockets to the pilots with CA but be sure to align them at the right height in order to have the Kadee box and the coupler at the right height according to NMRA recommendations. The DW parts have some tabs that are useless for me, I simple shave them off. Here you have to be very careful to align the underframe coupler platforms to the same level the openning you did in the DW coupler pocket, everything has to be perfectly aligned. Too high or too low and everything is ruined. Usually you have to use a dremel tool to take enough material from the underframe coupler platforms to be in line with the DW coupler pockets previously glued in place with CA. As a second step, glue inside the pilots and below the platforms enough styrene strips or an styrene block, but before cut them to the same dimensions of the coupler platform in the underframe. If you use strips, glue them together until the underframe coupler platforms "rest" over them. Third step: with the underframe "resting" over the inside of hood platforms (over the styrene strips or block previously glued), insert the Kadee boxes through the coupler pockets. Slip the box through the DW coupler pocket until it rests over the underframe coupler platform. Just a 1/3 or less of the Kadee coupler box will rest over the DW coupler pocket, the remanent will rest over the underframe coupler platform. Fourth; drill a hole through the underframe coupler platform all the way down the styrene strips using the hole in the Kadee box as a guide, with this components installed on place, take a screw and gently turn it through the styrene hole. Be sure that the hole drilled through the coupler platform is a little more loose fitting than the screw chord (the screw with be "inserted" through the styrene glued to the hoods, not the the underframe coupler platform). Take a screw long enough to hold in place the Kadee box, the underframe and the hood. Usually the screw I use are those found in the BB Athearn rolling stock trucks. I have found that using this method, the hood and the underframe will be solid and you won´t need the mounting tabs, your coupler will be perfectly aligned and the whole diesel will be strong enough to be lifted, pulled out, etc. After these steps are completed, you can simply eliminate the tabs in the underframe and correct the horrible wholes in the hood, fill the out and sand smooth with epoxy putty. Inside the Kadde boxes you can use the Sergent, Kadee or whatever coupler you prefer. Hope this helps.
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Post by Kiro on Mar 1, 2010 14:34:44 GMT -5
WOW!!!! what else can I say, Kiro I must sy we are all honored to have your presence here, Thank you for sharing. Justin, it is an honour for me, thank you very much. I have learn a lot from you all, the hobby is very very rich. I have taken a lay-off from my projects, but will be re-taking the pending projects in the next days, specially this SP Snoot that I like so much. Greetings!!! ;D
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KCSRailfan
Chairman
Kansas City Southern Fan
Posts: 609
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Post by KCSRailfan on Mar 1, 2010 20:05:06 GMT -5
Nice Tunnel Motor Kiro! I will refer back to this thread when I start my Squak Creek Southern SD40T-2.
-Damian
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Post by Jack Napier on Mar 8, 2010 22:48:07 GMT -5
Are you going to do it in 1970's/Early 1980's "Clean Roman," Late 80's/Early 90's "Dirty Roman," or Speed Lettering? It will be a Cotton Belt # 8376, it is the only I´ve seen with the SP roman lettering in the nose and the Cotton Belt in the hood, during the mid 80´s. Will receive a light weathering though... You mean this unit, right? espee.railfan.net/nonindex/sd40t-2_photos/8376_ssw-sd40t-2-daniel_dornbrach.jpg
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Post by Kiro on Mar 8, 2010 23:43:08 GMT -5
Yes!!! In this particular photo, the short hood light enclosures had already been modified, I have some other photos were it is not yet re-worked, with her SP in the nose very clear and with complete lights. I will post this photos later on. Thank you!
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Post by Kiro on Apr 22, 2014 12:04:36 GMT -5
Hi to all, some pics to come of work done lately (as soon as I remember how to post pics)
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Post by Kiro on Apr 22, 2014 12:56:37 GMT -5
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