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Post by Deleted on Nov 22, 2019 15:22:37 GMT -5
So, I know I used to have an account out here... But I can't remember my details. Been an HO scaler for about 30 years-- since I was 6 or 7. Real-world RR nowdays.
Anyway, I'm about to scratch build a frame for a freelanced standard gauge, US based BB40-2.
If anyone has a quick link to building a brass frame, let me know!!!
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Post by countryroads on Nov 22, 2019 21:26:48 GMT -5
Welcome back aboard
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Post by icghogger on Nov 23, 2019 7:39:55 GMT -5
Good to have you back, Fred, and keep us posted on your freelance build!!
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Post by sbcarshops on Nov 24, 2019 1:38:46 GMT -5
Welcome Back! And cant wait to see the Freelance Build!
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Post by big train james on Nov 24, 2019 2:03:27 GMT -5
Welcome! I remember this thread from the Atlas rescue forum, discussing making a new frame. It might be worth a read. atlasrescueforum.proboards.com/thread/6528/building-frame-brass-tubing?page=2I've got some pictures around here somewhere of in-progress work to lengthen the frames for the conversions to narrow gauge. Ex-CP units I believe. If you need them, I can try to locate them. What are you going to use for the trucks? The export style B-B trucks, or something like Blombergs? My personal plan for an sd40-2 frame in O scale is to build it like the real thing using etched metal parts for the pilot end sheets, side sills, bolsters extensions, walkway bracing, top frame plate, and structural tee's (frame rails). I'll be using a machined 1/16" plate for the frame bottom plate. Everything will be designed for tab and slot assembly with soldered connections. O scale locos are a bit different from most HO locos that I know of. At least recent products. In O, a lot of the frames are made in diecast, and include the walkways and often the sub-base, whereas in HO the walkways are usually plastic, and fit down over the frame or are part of the shell. It's hard, if not impossible, to solder diecast, so splicing with mechanical connections is pretty much the only way to stretch or shorten a factory frame. It's not always feasible or ideal, so I figure just start from scratch. Jim
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Post by Deleted on Nov 25, 2019 14:44:25 GMT -5
Thanks James, I'm going to use NWSL Spud drives, that SHOULD be in the mail by now. The sideframes are from Bachmann for their 44 and 70 tonners. The Story here, is the Bay Bayou and Gulf Coast Railroad was in the market for newer, bigger power than their aging fleet of switchers, but their track was in poor shape. Unable to afford a brand new locomotive, much less commission a special design (like the Milwaukee's SDL39) they turned to Fred's Locomotive Shop. FLSX modified an ex-Conrail SD40-2 to take 2 pairs of GE 44 Tonner trucks. To keep frame length down, the fuel tank was shortened instead of the "porches" being extended. I'm looking for a good dummy to use as the cab control/fuel tender on the other end...
This is all in HO scale. I have a few other locomotives lined up, and I would REALLY like to get my hands on an Athearn Genesis SDP45 to treat like this too, but I want to find just the shell- No need to pay full price if I'm going to scrap the frame and drive. I think I'm going to make the bolsters detachable, because one set of 4 Spuds was over $350. This way I can rotate Locomotives in service without a hefty price tag on each one.
If this project goes well, I'm going to consider making a BB40 for the Texas and Gulf Coast RR- Being a class one, they can afford brand new, and custom locomotives. Interested in the DD35/DD40AX the TX&GC opted for BB-BB wheel arrangement for better handling on curves. (And these units will use full-size Blombergs.)
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