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Post by jakeloyst on Feb 24, 2019 14:44:38 GMT -5
Bbottom chassis is the Walthers SW1, its been filed and shortened, the two grey boxes are the top of the worm gear. middle chassis is an older chassis for some kind of SW7, don't remember the manufacturer, but they came with sweet Kato drives, the top is the Kato NW2 chassis. With any kind of a shortened EMD hood, the SC or SW or SW1, the only way to mount the body would be to eliminate the front truck drive.
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Post by bigjdme on Feb 25, 2019 20:33:36 GMT -5
One of the guys on the DD relocated the Kato screws when he cut one down.
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Post by jakeloyst on Feb 26, 2019 16:47:11 GMT -5
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Post by jakeloyst on Feb 26, 2019 16:58:16 GMT -5
got the walthers chassis ground/filed down to the point where I could add new sill mounting flanges, to lower the deck height back down to where it belongs
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Post by jakeloyst on Mar 10, 2019 19:25:13 GMT -5
worst thing about work, it seriously cuts into some awesome hobby time!!!! Managed to get the end plates started, now juts need to add the lower portion, and was adding a decal rivet strip to the side hood, and suddenly discovered that the front rad is way way to high, the lover hood rivet strip runs just about the front grill, my rivet strips runs thru it!!!!
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Post by jakeloyst on Mar 12, 2019 19:50:27 GMT -5
Biting the bullet, with the rad opening in the wrong place and a couple other small issues, I've decided to start this project over from scratch, live and learn!
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Post by mandealco on Mar 13, 2019 0:07:35 GMT -5
That's a great attitude. I have several projects sitting on the workbench because they got a little hard (N-Scale). Back on the horse is the way to go. Looking forward to seeing your updates. Cheers Steve NZ
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Post by icghogger on Mar 13, 2019 8:06:18 GMT -5
Biting the bullet, with the rad opening in the wrong place and a couple other small issues, I've decided to start this project over from scratch, live and learn! Jake, let's keep your "do-over" on this tab. In spite of the problems you encountered, you presented us with some good scratch-building information that is a benefit to all. Keep up the good work!!
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dale
Superintendent
Posts: 157
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Post by dale on Mar 15, 2019 15:26:46 GMT -5
1 question, if you're using the roof and front from an Athearn Sw7, wouldn't that make the hood too wide? would two sw1 roofs be spliced together for the right length and width? This is quite a neat project you have going on here.
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Post by jakeloyst on Mar 25, 2019 21:15:55 GMT -5
You are correct, another reason why this has become a "do over" little "close enough nes is'ss" added up to something not good enough. Many things are close, many small things add up to not satisfied. The project is not dead, the chassis will still work, a very cut down Walthers SW1, and I;ve changed out the original Walthers rubber tube drive on one end for a NWSL driveline. I am still at a loss thought for a Winton 201 sound to put inside.
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dale
Superintendent
Posts: 157
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Post by dale on Mar 26, 2019 12:00:37 GMT -5
Does anybody make sound for a Zephyr,I wou!d think that would be the right sound. I'm glad your not going with the good enough philosophy in the rest of the loco. The whole project is cool.
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Post by jakeloyst on Mar 29, 2019 20:13:52 GMT -5
I found one for a zepher, but reading the description, it makes it sound exactly like the 567 which it is not, another case of "close enough". still looking
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Post by lyled1117 on Mar 30, 2019 13:07:20 GMT -5
Last that I knew there is yet to be a proper Zephyr sound created for a decoder. Winton 201's are difficult to find, but supposedly there are some still in use as marine engines. I have no understanding of the complexity of recording in that configuration. While it is a facsimile, a 567 6-cylinder is purportedly a reasonable approximation. The Winton is a two stroke diesel, so a small 567 not a bad representation I suspect.
Lyle D
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