|
Post by ironstef70 on Nov 17, 2019 10:00:27 GMT -5
So I've had this car finished for quite a while, but I realized I'd never posted a '100% finished' photo. Final touches included: - added the air compressor cooling pipes on the roof - painting both the pipes and the exhaust stack black - painted the wheelsets and trucks - chopped the trip pins from the couplers - added Hi-Tech Details air hoses - added the small Sinclair antennas for the Locotrol on the roof Wow, looks awesome. And you did a great job with the ends which are really much closer to the prototype than mine.
I really like your comment about the "trip pins", related to these awful metal hooks underneath the Kadee couplers.
I know their purpose for operation, and the use of a magnet uncoupling tool makes uncoupling really easier. But besides, they've always appeared to me as a source of trouble rather than a benefit as they compromise couplers alignment (that heavy hook makes couplers heavier, leaning downwards at an angle), they require maintenance in regard to lateral positioning, and did I mention, look horrible for (meant to be) realistic cars. Indeed, I have damaged several coupler boxes, and derailed cars (lost grab irons, or other tooling) due to these hooks tripping through switches.
I'd be curious to see a survey about these among long time modelers... Still, I will keep on using a pair of old cutters (these hooks are made of a very hard iron, against which your best cutter won't last) for removing them, then dremel disc for finishing the job.
S.
|
|
|
Post by cemr5396 on Nov 17, 2019 11:09:16 GMT -5
I really like your comment about the "trip pins", related to these awful metal hooks underneath the Kadee couplers.
I know their purpose for operation, and the use of a magnet uncoupling tool makes uncoupling really easier. But besides, they've always appeared to me as a source of trouble rather than a benefit as they compromise couplers alignment (that heavy hook makes couplers heavier, leaning downwards at an angle), they require maintenance in regard to lateral positioning, and did I mention, look horrible for (meant to be) realistic cars. Indeed, I have damaged several coupler boxes, and derailed cars (lost grab irons, or other tooling) due to these hooks tripping through switches. I'd be curious to see a survey about these among long time modelers... Still, I will keep on using a pair of old cutters (these hooks are made of a very hard iron, against which your best cutter won't last) for removing them, then dremel disc for finishing the job.
S.
Personally, I keep the trip pins on my equipment, so that I have the ability to use magnets for uncoupling if I wish. The only equipment I have removed them on has been a couple of my 6-axle road locomotives, some cabooses, and this car. If you're having trouble with couplers drooping and snagging on things, a Kadee height gauge, trip pin bending pliers, and washers are you're best friend. A little bit of tuning, and they will never give you trouble.
|
|