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Post by up9018 on Nov 8, 2016 8:24:06 GMT -5
Recently I picked up a nice used pair of 1/29 USA Trains SD40-2s at a really good price. Even though my RR is based on narrow gauge steam, I have always been a huge fan of these locomotives. In the G-Scale world there is a lot of BYOT open houses, so I decided that these would fit perfectly into that aspect of the hobby for me. With these locos being over 26" long and 6" tall, they also gave me the perfect platform to do something I always wanted to do, build a prototypical accurate locomotive. Living along the Union Pacific mainline, and having several family member work for the UP, the choice of RR was simple. Now with the rebuild program, these locos will live on and that gave me the prototypes I was looking for. When hunting for SD40Ns to model, i had some simple criteria, they had to be original UP locos, and had to have snoot noses. First up is the intro to the prototypes, with details on the models to follow in later posts. Thanks, Chris The first unit will be Union Pacific #1971. I chose this locomotive because 1971 is my and my wife's birth year. It also has a winged nose herald and a PTC antenna array. The second will be Union Pacific #1588. I chose this locomotive primarily because it was one of the "Fast Forty" locomotives built with higher speed gearing to run with the DD40AX locos. This loco features a simple shield on the nose vs. the winged shield on 1971. This loco also includes a ratchet style brake handle vs. the wheel on #1971
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Post by dak94dav on Nov 8, 2016 18:14:02 GMT -5
Sounds like a cool project. A nicely detailed pair in G scale will be some impressive models. Always thought the "snoots" were good looking. Can't wait to see
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Post by up9018 on Nov 14, 2016 21:34:22 GMT -5
Here are a few photos of the model. I have two identical versions of this loco, so I only took pictures of the one. Overall the loco is 29" long. Nose shot, notice the pilot needs a big hole filled in it. The nose on my locos will be stretched to 116" I will have to print new radiator grills Fans have see through grills and the blades are free to rotate A shot of the rear end. I will be taking one of these apart in the next few days to formulate a plan for the detail work. Thanks, Chris
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Post by up9018 on May 16, 2018 11:18:11 GMT -5
After a move and a year of no work shop, I'm finally able to get back onto this project. The first locomotive to be converted has been tore down and the paint removed from the body and frame. Up next is to start removing the bits off the frame / sill piece that I no longer need. Thanks, Chris
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Post by slowfreight on May 17, 2018 13:24:20 GMT -5
I understand long delays...progress is a good thing!
Just keep chipping away at 'em.
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Post by up9018 on May 22, 2018 20:47:57 GMT -5
I have the underside of the sill / frame stripped of the bits I plan to replace. Gone are the old frame rails, air tank mounts, jack pads and builder plate spots. Waiting for some new chisel blades for the Xacto to arrive so I can get the remaining bits against the steps. Then it will be some final sanding and I can move to pilot modifications. Thanks, Chirs
Before photos:
After photos:
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Post by up9018 on May 31, 2018 21:07:58 GMT -5
Pilots have been stripped clean. All holes were filled with stretched sprue and the big hole filled with .080" styrene. I need to add backing strips to the back for that joint, then bondo and final sand them. I also cut the tabs off that were supposed to represent the end of the lower step. The proto I'm building did not have the upper corners trimmed, so they will remain square.
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EMDX6043
Chairman
Future ex-modeler
Posts: 837
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Post by EMDX6043 on Jun 1, 2018 7:12:18 GMT -5
What are you going to do for the plows?
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Post by up9018 on Jun 1, 2018 8:22:02 GMT -5
Not positive yet, but I will probably 3D print them. I don't plan on putting them to actual snow plow use, so printing should be sufficient.
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Post by up9018 on Jun 12, 2018 20:31:05 GMT -5
I ran a low res prototype of my 3D tank to see how it was going to work out. I have decided to make a few changes for the final version. First some comparison photos. First up is an end shot comparison. My tank matches dimensions for the actual tank, so you see that it comes back in on the top instead of just being vertical like the original. My mounts are also narrow vs. the original as I am moving the frame rails inward closer to where they should be. Large holes on the upper edge are for locating the 3D printed tank mounts.
Underside shot shows the prototypical design of the tank. The proto is not actually round, but broke every 10 degrees in a series of short flats that eventually form a round shape. I did this on the proto tank but it is very subtle. After I finish sand the tank smooth, that detail will vanish, so I will just change them to be round.
The original tank is not as wide as it should be.
The new tank at the correct width.
So after the proto tank was made, I decided to make a few changes. I am going to remove the speaker provisions and the mount pad for the Phoenix board and relocate them into the body shell. I decided to do this because I can't seal the tank up.
I'm going to remove the end sheets from the print and replace them with laser pieces. This will make sanding the profile much easier to do. The end sheets are what you see sticking up above the curve section.
I'm also going to remove the top sheet and replace it with a piece of .015 styrene. The vent block behind the sight glass will also not be on the print. This also is to make final sanding easier. The mounts will remain part of the printed tank.
I would like to take a moment to extend recognition to Brian Banna for his overwhelming help with getting the tank profile correct. Brian's willingness to share his information greatly helped make this possible.
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Post by slowfreight on Jun 16, 2018 19:41:54 GMT -5
Neat stuff. Too bad the brake bend effect disappeared when you sanded the part.
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Post by fordy744 on Jul 4, 2018 10:43:17 GMT -5
Looking forward to seeing your progress on these!
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Post by up9018 on Jul 24, 2018 7:36:42 GMT -5
This is the pilot with the lower corners corrected, and the lower doubler plate added. Completed frame in a more prototypical location. The real loco is not flanges on the bottom, but a full plate. For operational purposes I chose just to model the outer edge. I 3D printed the outer section of the bolsters. I also printed the jack pads, but made them to short so I will be making new ones. I am now working on new mounts for the trucks. I'm going to try and make them so I can negotiate a 4' R without having to cut clearance holes in the frame rails.
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Post by slowfreight on Jul 24, 2018 22:17:47 GMT -5
Lots of great work so far. You are clearly much more comfortable designing 3D parts than the rest of us.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jul 25, 2018 3:34:17 GMT -5
Coming along nicely.
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Post by up9018 on Aug 29, 2018 7:54:06 GMT -5
I have the fuel tank all together and primed. I have a couple of minor details to add but it is mostly complete. Tank itself is 3D printed ABS plastic on a FDM style printer. Sanding and filler primer removed the lines with the exception of a few on the very bottom that you cannot see anyway. Top sheets are .020" styrene. End sheets are laser cut .75mm acrylic. All the rest of the details are 3D printed detail plastic from Shapeways. The vent pipes will be glued to the underside of the frame when the final installation happens. The mounts, waste tank and drain bar all pierce thru the acrylic end sheet and into the printed tank. Tank assembly mounted to the frame. The tank is screwed to the frame. The drain block will be plumbed to the waste tank during final assembly. Probably be it until it gets to cold to work outside. Thanks for looking, Chris
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