CSX yn4 paint masking order

[mkl194]

I've a couple shells ready to paint for the latest CSX paint scheme, which I believe is yn4 or dark future?

The first two that I did turned out horrible.  If you think factory paint is hard to strip, try stripping your own paint after you used some really good primer on it.

That brings me to my question:

After the shell is properly done with a nice primer, my favorite being either rustoleum auto black or rustoleum auto gray, which color do you do next and how do you mask for it?

I recently used some really nice masking tape I got at the auto parts store and masked all the yellow areas and did the blue and then did another masking to do the yellow and it turned out pretty good, but it was just hell trying to do that second masking.

There has to be an easier way.  When I did my fleet of CNW locomotives, I'd airbrush the yellow, and then using scalecoat cnw green I'd hand brush over rustoleum gray with a silver fox paint brush I got from Walthers and it turned out excellent after the clear coat was applied.

I'd like to use Micro Mask, but have never figured out how to use that product with success....suggestions there would be much appreciated.

I'd like to hear tips on doing a good CSX yn4....

[PVRR 2647]

MK~

When I painted my Atlas YN3 GP40-2 ph1 Road Slug set, I primed it with white primer first and masked the cab roof, then I shot the yellow second on the hood ends and the side sills, I didn't worry about getting it on the pilot or steps when I did this. After the paint had dried and cured for a couple of days, I masked the side sills and hood ends, remember the yellow extends past the radius of the nose on standard cab locomotives, and the rear nose only has a yellow "patch" on it. I masked it all with blue painters tape that I stuck to a piece of glass first to remove some of the tackiness. When I cut off the excess tape I used a gold bladed number 11 xacto knife and the good ol' steel ruler. I then shot about a dozen light coats of Polly S New Image Blue. after that had dried and cured, again for a few days. I masked the sill assembly to paint the pilots, steps and step wells gloss black. While the black was in the air brush I shot the frame, truck side frames, fuel tank and underbody too. Again a few days later I removed the masking tape as carefully as possible to minimize tear out and touched up any torn off spots with the indispensable 10/0 floquil brush (I'm taking this brush with me to the grave!) and shot the whole model with clear gloss, let that dry and then decaled the units, and applied another coat of clear gloss to seal the decals. After the requisite curing time had elapsed I applied dull coat. As a side note the current [csx] paint scheme is referred to as YN3b to denote the boxcar logo. Sorry about the length of this post but it was really a process.

Sincerely,
PVRR2647

[mkl194]

I hadn't thought of allowing the overlap, that's a good idea. I haven't tried the Floquil 10/0, but now that you mention it I'll probably give that a try also - there's still no substitute for a high quality brush.

I'm going give it another shot following the same procedure you outlined above.

I also discovered 3m yellow and green tape. I've been using the orange and the blue stuff for a long time until the auto parts guy showed me the green and yellow tapes, makes a very big difference.

[PVRR 2647]

MK~

I can't recall were I heard the rule of: "apply the lightest color first and work towards the darkest color last". But it seems to make sense,(to me anyway). Trying to get decent coverage with gold/yellow over a really dark blue is a tough proposition. I'm sure that there are exceptions to this rule of thumb, and someone will invariably point this out. Good luck with your next attempt, and please keep us posted on your progress if you get the chance.

Regards,
PVRR2647