Athearn BB Dash 9 Coupler Height...Without using undersets!
Aug 3, 2015 19:28:31 GMT -5
blane likes this
Post by capnsean520 on Aug 3, 2015 19:28:31 GMT -5
So, since my LHS is not really "local" (53 miles away), I decided to think of a different way to adjust the coupler height on the Athearn BB Dash 9. I recently acquired a SP Dash 9 from my buddy and decided to super detail and weather it to match its prototype (UP 9651 Ex-SP). All the detail parts went on splendidly, but when all was said and done, my coupler height was drastically low. So low, in fact, that using the Kadee underset shank couplers may not have resolved the problem. I'm using Kadee #158 Scale head whisker couplers in addition to a myriad of parts that I threw at this factory painted loco. Since, again, I'm not that close to my LHS, something had to be done. A parts and tools list is below for your reference.
Tools needed:
Exacto knife
Dremel (or any motor tool) with cutoff wheel
Jeweler's screwdrivers
Thick CA glue
Plastic bonding cement (I used Tamiya)
Parts/Materials required:
Kadee Medium Centerset shank couplers of your choice
Kadee coupler draft gear boxes
2-56 Screws to mount your coupler boxes
.250"x.250" Styrene square rod
.150"x.250" Styrene strip
Step 1: Remove the couplers from your loco and set them aside.
Step 2: Remove the shell from your loco being careful not to damage the factory shell clips which hold it to the frame/chassis.
Step 3: Using a Dremel or other motor tool with a cutoff wheel, remove the cast on coupler mounts. Be patient as this is a tough metal. It will take time, and USE EYE PROTECTION! Using a mask will also be a good idea so you don't breathe in the metal shavings and dust during removal.
Step 4: Set the frame aside and focus on the shell.
Step 5: Cut a piece of the square styrene rod to mount directly to the shell. We will put this above (below as you're looking at it) the coupler opening. On the rear, the rod will measure approximately 5/16" from coupler opening to walkway underside. On the front, you will have to cut a piece approximately the same dimensions, however, you will have to notch out the styrene to allow room for the cab clip.
Step 6: Glue these pieces in place and allow to dry thoroughly. At first, I mounted them temporarily, marked where the draft gear boxes would be and screw hole needed to be, then removed them to drill the holes. I then glued them in place and allowed them to dry using the Tamiya Plastic Bonding Cement. This cement fuses the plastic together and ensures the mount's integrity over time.
Step 7: Cut 8 .150"x.250"x.250" styrene squares and set them aside. We will use these to shim the shell away from the chassis. Once you're done, place two squares on each corner (centered above the trucks). Attach the first squares with CA glue and allow to dry. Then glue the additional squares on top of the first squares using the plastic bonding cement.
Step 8: Assemble your coupler draft gear boxes with couplers, shave the lip off the front of the box and sand smooth. Doing this will allow you greater control of where your couplers will mount.
Step 9: Fasten the couplers to your newly formed coupler mount (the styrene square rod that you fabricated earlier) using the 2-56 screw.
Step 10: Replace the shell on the frame and Voila! Check your coupler height with a coupler height gauge and off you go! Additional shimming may be necessary in the event your frame is slightly thinner than mine was.
Hope this helps, it's easier than it seems.
A video of the completed project:
Athearn BB Dash 9 Coupler Height Solution!
Sean
Tools needed:
Exacto knife
Dremel (or any motor tool) with cutoff wheel
Jeweler's screwdrivers
Thick CA glue
Plastic bonding cement (I used Tamiya)
Parts/Materials required:
Kadee Medium Centerset shank couplers of your choice
Kadee coupler draft gear boxes
2-56 Screws to mount your coupler boxes
.250"x.250" Styrene square rod
.150"x.250" Styrene strip
Step 1: Remove the couplers from your loco and set them aside.
Step 2: Remove the shell from your loco being careful not to damage the factory shell clips which hold it to the frame/chassis.
Step 3: Using a Dremel or other motor tool with a cutoff wheel, remove the cast on coupler mounts. Be patient as this is a tough metal. It will take time, and USE EYE PROTECTION! Using a mask will also be a good idea so you don't breathe in the metal shavings and dust during removal.
Step 4: Set the frame aside and focus on the shell.
Step 5: Cut a piece of the square styrene rod to mount directly to the shell. We will put this above (below as you're looking at it) the coupler opening. On the rear, the rod will measure approximately 5/16" from coupler opening to walkway underside. On the front, you will have to cut a piece approximately the same dimensions, however, you will have to notch out the styrene to allow room for the cab clip.
Step 6: Glue these pieces in place and allow to dry thoroughly. At first, I mounted them temporarily, marked where the draft gear boxes would be and screw hole needed to be, then removed them to drill the holes. I then glued them in place and allowed them to dry using the Tamiya Plastic Bonding Cement. This cement fuses the plastic together and ensures the mount's integrity over time.
Step 7: Cut 8 .150"x.250"x.250" styrene squares and set them aside. We will use these to shim the shell away from the chassis. Once you're done, place two squares on each corner (centered above the trucks). Attach the first squares with CA glue and allow to dry. Then glue the additional squares on top of the first squares using the plastic bonding cement.
Step 8: Assemble your coupler draft gear boxes with couplers, shave the lip off the front of the box and sand smooth. Doing this will allow you greater control of where your couplers will mount.
Step 9: Fasten the couplers to your newly formed coupler mount (the styrene square rod that you fabricated earlier) using the 2-56 screw.
Step 10: Replace the shell on the frame and Voila! Check your coupler height with a coupler height gauge and off you go! Additional shimming may be necessary in the event your frame is slightly thinner than mine was.
Hope this helps, it's easier than it seems.
A video of the completed project:
Athearn BB Dash 9 Coupler Height Solution!
Sean