trev
Road Foreman
Posts: 84
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Post by trev on Jun 21, 2015 7:02:14 GMT -5
Is it possible/feasible to fit a complete kato gp35 chassis into a proto2000 gp20 or gp30 shell without too much carving or grinding?
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dtinut
Chairman
Modeling the DT&I of the 60's & 70's
Posts: 661
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GP35
Jun 21, 2015 10:38:48 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by dtinut on Jun 21, 2015 10:38:48 GMT -5
Sure, it fits the GP30, have to clear several obstacles on the P2K shell, but it is doable. I even made a template so when I get a mill job request for the next one, I dont have to figure it all out.
The truck spacing wont be correct using Kato GP35 drive under a GP20, as I believe these are same as the GP 7/9/18.
Not positve as I dont have one.
Regards, Brian
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GP35
Jun 21, 2015 14:53:47 GMT -5
Post by Packer on Jun 21, 2015 14:53:47 GMT -5
I think the truck spacing on the P2K GP30/20/18/9/7 is the same, just a longer frame on the GP30
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GP35
Jun 21, 2015 16:10:23 GMT -5
Post by CP_8530 on Jun 21, 2015 16:10:23 GMT -5
No dice on the GP20 - the GP30/35 truck bolster spacing is ever so longer than the earlier Geeps.
Quite a few people have done the Kato '35 drive to P2K '30 shell swap though.
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trev
Road Foreman
Posts: 84
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GP35
Jun 24, 2015 9:14:48 GMT -5
Post by trev on Jun 24, 2015 9:14:48 GMT -5
Right, thanks guys.....now I need to know how to convert a gp30 into a short high hood version?
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trev
Road Foreman
Posts: 84
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Post by trev on Jul 15, 2015 9:55:50 GMT -5
HI, gave up trying to get hold of a proto gp30 shell but found a newish spectrum one instead and that was very easy to fit onto the kato gp35 chassis, sorta slid right on and stays put too. just right now am preparing it for paint stripping and then gonna put some details on for a CP gp30 in glorious "action red" although am lacking shots of the rear end of CP's gp30's. Any help appreciated here
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GP35
Jul 15, 2015 19:54:29 GMT -5
Post by CP_8530 on Jul 15, 2015 19:54:29 GMT -5
What era? There was a lot of variations for just those two units over the years...
5" full frontal stripe scheme with large multis in the early 70's - body-wise they had a blank rear end except for the sand filler and dual sealed beam rear headlight (the numberboards and rear class lights had been removed in the 60's when they became "Diesel Road Freight" units for mainline service). Also no rear pilot. At least one (5000) got the 8" stripe scheme w/ large multi in this era, and another got the mid-70's "Ogden multi" job (5001) with the small multi, 5" stripes and red space on the top rear 1/3 of the hood end.
In the early 80's, they were rebuilt as roadswitchers (DRS class) and got rear pilots, rear numberboards in an oddball housing, and rear ditch lights. Repainted into the 8" stripe small multi scheme. 5000 eventually got the non-multi paint in the late 80's/90's.
Both also acquired winterization hatches at different times.
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trev
Road Foreman
Posts: 84
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GP35
Jul 16, 2015 12:57:09 GMT -5
Post by trev on Jul 16, 2015 12:57:09 GMT -5
Im planning on a mid to late 70's era, #5001 being the favourite. As the kato chassis came without couplers what kadee's are recommended for this loco?
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deez
Chairman
Midland Belt Railway
Posts: 949
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GP35
Jul 16, 2015 17:34:43 GMT -5
Post by deez on Jul 16, 2015 17:34:43 GMT -5
It's a difference of 1'. The rear truck was moved 1' back on the later fishbelly frames. I though it was the late GP18's that this started with but not totally sure.
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GP35
Aug 3, 2015 19:41:23 GMT -5
Post by santafemikie on Aug 3, 2015 19:41:23 GMT -5
The Kato GP-35 frame will NOT fit into the GP-20. With a little grinding or machining a P2K frame for a GP7/9/18/20 will accept a Stewart/Kato F-unit or Atlas/Kato drive quite nicely. Cheers, Mike
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