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Post by bnmodeler on Jun 9, 2015 20:04:18 GMT -5
I thought I would pose this question here because it is a site for REAL modelers. I'm using Evergreen plastic to build up the sides for a GP28. I am using .020 sheet and .020 strip to frame out the Cannon doors. Does anyone fill the cracks at the joints?
I am using the Chopper II so all the joints are square and true.
Any and all replies are wanted.
Thanks
BNModceler
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Post by icghogger on Jun 10, 2015 8:00:22 GMT -5
I have various fillers on hand, depending on the joint to be filled. I use Mr. Dissolved Putty, by Gunze for small gaps and NAPA body filler for larger gaps. There are other brands available (Squadron, etc.), so I would try to find what works best for you. I build up the filler in thin layers, letting the filler cure 24 hours between layers before I clean up the joint.
Be sure to drill holes in the styrene where you will attach the Cannon doors. This allows for application of the cement from the back side of the car body.
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mkl194
Trainmaster
accelerating rust on purpose
Posts: 131 
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Post by mkl194 on Jun 12, 2015 10:42:57 GMT -5
Have you ever tried Bondo from the auto parts store? It has several really great properties....It has a working time of around 10-15 minutes. Once it hits that sweet spot after you apply it, it can be trimmed with a #17 blade perfectly which eliminates any clean up or sanding. When used on large areas it can be filed and sanded and takes primer and paint very nicely.
Takes a little practice, but well worth getting to know it.
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Post by Eccentric_Crank on Jun 12, 2015 12:40:31 GMT -5
Have you ever tried Bondo from the auto parts store? It has several really great properties....It has a working time of around 10-15 minutes. Once it hits that sweet spot after you apply it, it can be trimmed with a #17 blade perfectly which eliminates any clean up or sanding. When used on large areas it can be filed and sanded and takes primer and paint very nicely. Takes a little practice, but well worth getting to know it. I agree completely, but would add that the best for our needs are the "finishing" grades (Wurth is my favourite, Feather-Rite is also good). Masking tape on either side of the joint prevents a lot of clean-up, damage to details and extra sanding. Most beginners use too much hardener and get frustrated when they run out of time, you can stretch the working time if you use a little less. For automotive work it's recommended to work with a blob no larger than a golf ball or what you can use in 5 minutes, so be governed accordingly. I put a tiny dab of hardener in the middle of a ring of filler and stir with a figure 8 motion all around, mix well but don't over-do it. When it starts to "kick" stop shaping and clean your tools, (you can weaken the bond if you work it too long) by the time you're done cleaning you'll probably find that you can start sanding and your tools will be ready for the next mix. On a car, I mark all my targets with chalk to avoid searching with the clock ticking on a "hot" mix, a pencil serves on a model. Never re-use the same spot on your mixing palette, your mix will harden before you can use it. I use the sheets from a sticky lint-roller for mixing, they peel off my palette easily to discard. Single edge razor blades make excellent disposable spatulas. Dan M. |
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Post by Eccentric_Crank on Jun 13, 2015 23:25:21 GMT -5
Sorry folks, my first post vanished, now it's back.
Dan M.
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