oarb00
Probationary Member
Posts: 10
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Post by oarb00 on Dec 20, 2014 7:57:37 GMT -5
Hello everyone!! I have a couple of questions regarding locomotive refinishing. I recently completed my first repainting project, it is an Atlas N scale GP38-2 that I painted in CNW livery. It started life as a factory decorated GM&O unit. I stripped the paint using brake fluid and refinished it using Tru Color paint shot straight from the bottle and no primer. The results are almost indistinguishable from my factory painted units.
My currant project is an Atlas N scale GP40 I am also painting in CNW livery. I purchased the unit undecorated and washed it thoroughly with soap and water and shot it with Tru Color paint again straight from the bottle using no primer also. This time I had problems with the paint lifting when I removed the masking tape. I use Tamiya masking strips. I stripped the paint with brake fluid again and shot it with Tru Color grey primer on Thursday evening. It will be Sunday night before I have time to mask and start shooting the first color.
Here are my questions: 1. What are some suggestions for shell prep prior to painting 2. What is the recommended time to allow the paint to cure before masking and applying color 3. What prevents the primer from being lifted by the masking tape 4. Is there a specific type of primer that works well on hand rails and other slippery plastic parts 5. Would a chemical etcher made for plastic help or destroy the detail 6. How many coats of dull coat are necessary to prevent damage during handling
Thank you in advance for any suggestions. Here is the first unit I painted, sorry for the lousy photo postimg.org/image/t1jzq2jyb/
I have 3 more units to redecorate for the Northwestern then I will be attempting my first real detailing project. I have 2 Atlas Sd7's that I will be chopping the nose and detailing as CNW SD7r's as they appeared in the late 1970's.
Modeling the CNW and BN in N scale in the late 1970's Midwest.
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Post by NS91 on Dec 20, 2014 8:37:21 GMT -5
How long are you waiting before masking? I've waited around three days before masking, then shoot one color, let it dry a week then pull my tape. There could be brake fluid residue on the model. Also I wouldn't use brake fluid on plastic models. It will cause the plastic to break down over time. I prefer 91% isopropyl alcohol for stripping models. Its usually a lot cheaper then brake fluid and is pretty much every where.
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Post by Mark R. on Dec 20, 2014 15:46:15 GMT -5
Here's my suggestions ....
1 - I scrub the shell in warm water with a toothbrush and an abrasive cleaner (like Comet). Rinse thoroughly and let dry. 2 - When using Tru-Color paint, it sets fast. I will easily mask and paint three colors in a single day. A couple hours in a warm environment seems to be more than adequate. Remove your masking immediately after spraying to avoid the paint from drying to the tape, which WILL cause paint lift. 3 - A good primer will actually bite into the plastic giving it excellent adhesion. I use Tamiya Fine Surface Primer and have always gotten excellent results. Give it a good 24 hours cure time. 4 - Slippery plastic parts require an Adhesion Promoter. This is usually available in a spray can from most automotive paint supply stores. It's clear, just spray it on and spray your color within a few minutes. If it dries completely before spraying your color, you need to re-apply - it needs to be between wet and tacky in order to work properly. 5 - Never used the stuff - couldn't tell you. 6 - Dullcoat really isn't much of a protectant in that there isn't much finish in it. If handled a lot, Dullcoat can / will get gummy and eventually wear off .... again, due to the lack of a finish content. The trick is to handle your engines correctly. Lift them by the bottom of the tank, cradling it in your hand. Handle the body itself as little as possible.
Mark.
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oarb00
Probationary Member
Posts: 10
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Post by oarb00 on Dec 21, 2014 6:43:55 GMT -5
Thank you for the advice, can't wait to get home tonight and start shooting some color.
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