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Post by kasskadesub on Aug 23, 2014 16:59:23 GMT -5
Here is my finished B36-7 and some General Electric information for those who would like to model on of the mighty Espee dash 7s.
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Post by kasskadesub on Aug 23, 2014 18:26:50 GMT -5
My new experimental radiator build.
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Post by kasskadesub on Aug 23, 2014 18:40:09 GMT -5
information pertaining to 4 axle General Electric and some Espee specific info.
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dekon
Staff Member
Posts: 634
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Post by dekon on Aug 23, 2014 21:48:20 GMT -5
Fantastic build. What is your radiator technique, it looks great.
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Post by kasskadesub on Aug 23, 2014 23:02:09 GMT -5
The technique I use is to utilize some ship building materials.Radiator Encouraged by other SP modelers, I investigated ways to add depth and detail to the radiator. Using a combination of scratch-built parts, photo etched products and micro mesh screen I am able to accurately model the depth of the prototype. Cut out the radiator from the shell and add some ledges for the screen to sit. Scratch build the details to represent the multiple radiator cores. I use extra parts I have laying around to build my radiators. Rix model‟s door from an old kit, are cut and used to replicate a reasonable radiator core. I put a piece of stainless steel mesh over the cores and added some framing. The results are shown in the pictures below: Looking beyond the model railroad industry to make a better looking radiator screen, I found a company out of Poland called Aber that makes photo etched items for ship modelers. A quick internet search provided several domestic retailers (I purchased mine through e-bay). Aber has a specific product called netting with 1mm square spacing. After some measurements I concluded this would be a close representation to the dash 7 radiator. Cut out two pieces of the netting the size of the radiator openings. Shaped them a little bit and install. When I finished I was extremely satisfied with the results as shown in the test fit below. Add the separation bar by soldering a piece of photo etched scrap material on the net. The radiator area gets painted using a gun metal color prior to adding the radiator screen.
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Post by kasskadesub on Aug 23, 2014 23:23:06 GMT -5
I cut out the regular grills. Using an SD90 radiators I formed a McMaster-Carr screen into a see through representation of the grills. there is room for me to improve the process by working on the mesh screen,
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Post by pumuckl81 on Aug 24, 2014 0:25:38 GMT -5
Came out very nice! I got to get one of these too. Is it based on an Atlas B30-7?
Greetings
Samuel
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Post by kasskadesub on Aug 24, 2014 5:14:24 GMT -5
This is based on a melted shell from a RPP B23-7. These next pictures explain what was done.
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Post by emd16645 on Aug 24, 2014 6:34:59 GMT -5
Great tips on the radiators! Aber makes some very nice products, I have some of their gun barrels in my parts bin for my 1/350 fletcher I'm building. I will definitely have to find some of the mesh you used in your build for future use.
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Post by simulatortrain on Aug 24, 2014 13:15:27 GMT -5
Which McMaster material did you use on the sides, and how did you shape it? I have thought through both questions for some U-boats I plan to eventually do, but I'd like to hear your process as well.
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Post by kasskadesub on Aug 24, 2014 14:13:54 GMT -5
McMaster-Carr I ordered two different sizes. 80x80 Mesh, .0037" Wire Dia,12"x24120 X 120 Mesh, .0037" Wire Dia, 12" X 24" . Try each one and see what works for you. I used the 120 for the radiator and the 80 for the intakes. I used the Aber 1mm square for the top radiator grid. To for the screens I had four cannon GP60 radiator screens glued together o a piece of styrene. I cut out the size with eith a sharp number 11 blade or some etched metal cutters. I took the piece and using two dull number 18 x-acto blades . Using those tools I as able to shape the grills to the formation I wanted. Ij the future I may work on getting the screen with more definite folds. The nice thing about this hobby, I am always experimenting. Such as my waffle style radiators for my espee sd39;s I am working on. Some older work on a D&RGW GP40
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Post by kasskadesub on Aug 24, 2014 18:41:17 GMT -5
I concur with the need formore GE type accessories, doors, battery doors, etc. Here are some of the struggles I had: Louvers Louvers are a vital detail on locomotives. Louvers can be purchased from different sources that use different materials. Plano produces photo etched louver and Archer produces a decal version of louvers. After using the GE tread I will look at the Archer option on my next project. For this project I came up with a way to model vents that is fairly easy. I line up and glue .010” styrene rod on the surface, spaced equally apart. Once dried, I filed them into the shape of the louver. The louvers in the battery access doors on the engineer‟s side were made using this technique. Nose The SP B36-7 has no louvers on the conductor‟s side of the nose. If the shell you are working with has them you will need to sand the area smooth. Next add the late Pyle twin beam light on the nose with the grab irons as shown below. Add the blanked out class lights using pieces from a Cannon nose kit in the same manner done on the rear of the locomotive. Add the doors on the bottom of the nose in the same manner performed on the end of the hood. Create the brake housing using another piece from a Cannon nose kit. Sand the back side of this piece very thin and install it at the side of the nose. Finally add the front walkway light centered between the two bottom doors. Use a spare blank class light from the Cannon EMD nose kit and poke a pin hole through the center to represent the light. To represent the GE dash 7 door latches I use cannon dynamic brake door latches. I cut them out along the lines shown below, using photo etched cutters. Glue the latches on all of the appropriate doors using cyanoacrylate. The excess photo etched material is good to keep, I use this kind of material later in this project. Sill I am not a fan of the RPP details so proceed to sand off .015” (0.381mm) from each sill. I replaced the material with pieces of .015” (0.381mm) sheet styrene. Cut the shape of the sill on both sides. Measure and cut out the areas where the access doors are located. The configuration of the equipment doors is a little different between the different models of the dash 7. The differences are shown in figures 1-8. The doors will be added separately. The prototype doors sit flush with the sides so I used 015” (0.381mm) sheet styrene for the doors. If you want a little more definition around the door you can use .020” (0.508mm) sheet styrene to raise the door .005” (.127mm) above the surrounding side. This creates a raised door surface similar to manufactured models. Since no models of GE equipment doors are available commercially they must be scratch built. Cut out the door from .015” (0.381mm) sheet styrene (you can use .020” styrene as described earlier). The doors will be installed in the openings previously cut out of the sills. Once the door is cut add a .020” (0.508mm) square styrene strip at the bottom of the doors. File them into a triangle shape more resembling the prototype. To model the hinge on the doors cut out the lip and added .010” (0.254mm) styrene rod to the gap. The graphic below indicates the steps in building the doors. The latches have to be scratch built too. After the doors are installed, mark the location of the latches. The latches are round with a horizontal latch handle in the center. Proceed to drill the hole through the .015” (0.381mm) door using a 1/16” (.0625” or 1.59mm) sized drill bit, but only drilled about 1/16” into the RPP shell. After drilling the latch hole I used a small saw designed for the modeling knife and carefully created the vertical slit at the top of the latch. Figure 24 shows the fundamental shape of the latch hole. Make the latches from excess photo etch material (shown previously). Shape and glue material it in the hole to give a reasonable representation of the latch as the photo below shows. In addition to the equipment doors under the cab there are three small doors further back along the sill on the conductor‟s side. Using pictures locate the position of the doors and make the doors and hinges with .005” (.127mm) styrene. Then use a pin to create the button latches
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Post by ednadolski on Aug 24, 2014 19:42:51 GMT -5
Impressive build! Great job on the notes too, thanks for sharing! Ed
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Post by kasskadesub on Aug 24, 2014 20:23:25 GMT -5
Thanks for the comments. Just trying to help those of us that are 4 axle GE fans.
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Post by tankcarsrule on Aug 25, 2014 16:46:00 GMT -5
Jeff, that's one quality build.
Regards, Bobby
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Post by antlorch on Aug 25, 2014 20:33:15 GMT -5
Very nice and complete model. I am not a big GE fan but yours is sharp. I honestly never knew there could be that much work involved in building a GE.
Could you shot a few more pics from all around, maybe outside in the sunlight if possible. Thanks for sharing.
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Post by kasskadesub on Aug 26, 2014 17:38:24 GMT -5
The work was replacing the RPP details and the additional doors. It all depends how detailed, of course, here on diesel detailers boards. Here are a few more from the original shoot, I will get some from outside too. interior without cab rear quarter Engineers Side reverse move off to beans
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Post by kasskadesub on Aug 26, 2014 19:13:47 GMT -5
outdoor photos when the sun decides to come out. been overcast all day. standby
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Post by jp68 on Aug 27, 2014 17:57:38 GMT -5
Nice build. Where did you get the cab interior?
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Post by kasskadesub on Aug 27, 2014 23:30:18 GMT -5
Thanks for the comments, it is a modified cannon and co. I had to find what a dash 7 interior looked like and tried to follow the example. Good example found here: GE informationModified the rear wall to be more like GE and added my own twists like making the seats a high back and add the GE logo on the seats. Put the control stand in and some dry brushing and came up with this:
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