rjm
Road Foreman
Iron Horses Forever
Posts: 92
|
Post by rjm on Jul 27, 2014 22:38:08 GMT -5
Trying to get the old Santa Fe blue & yellow off a Kato NW2 got the majority off with brake fluid and a two day soak. Rinsed it thoroughly with 70% alcohol and rinsed with warm soapy water. Around where the yellow on the nose is, I have a residue that looks like soap scum. Can scratch it with my finger and it comes off. What is the residue and how would be the best way to remove it barring sand blasting? Thanks a bunch RJ
|
|
|
Post by lajmdlr on Jul 27, 2014 23:34:08 GMT -5
RJ If you can scrape it off w/ your finger nail you should be able to do it w/ a sharp edge of something plastic like a credit card, ruler, etc. Did you find anything for those stacks yet? Looks like they're little more than twice the size of the bell (12"). If you have issue 33 of the WP "Headlight" it has Folio Drawings, ALCo S-2, EMD NW2, EMD GP7
|
|
|
Post by Mark R. on Jul 27, 2014 23:59:03 GMT -5
You really shouldn't have used brake fluid on a Kato shell. You're lucky you haven't destroyed the shell after a two day soak in brake fluid. That film you are seeing is probably the plastic breaking down / drying out. I'd be real hesitant to start scraping at it as you would be removing material at this point.
Let is dry for a few days and see if it stays the same or gets worse. You might be able to prime over it and give it a light sanding in between coats to smooth it out.
Mark.
|
|
|
Post by iomalley on Jul 28, 2014 6:23:15 GMT -5
Yes, I second Mark. I stripped a Kato SD40 shell once with brake fluid and it all crumbled away in my hands!
|
|
rjm
Road Foreman
Iron Horses Forever
Posts: 92
|
Post by rjm on Jul 28, 2014 8:37:29 GMT -5
Mark & Sean, for future reference how then do you remove paint from a Kato shell? In the picture you see the yellow on the nose; behind it is some sort of residue from the yellow decal! Luckily it has not dissolved yet! Well I rubbed on the spot with a brass wire brush and it is coming off, probably a no-no, yet it is working, just cannot get in the details enough. Andy I got into this too late for those issues will see if the FRRS society has a copy in their store when I ride over there this coming week. Thanks RJ
|
|
|
Post by Mark R. on Jul 28, 2014 11:08:49 GMT -5
Instead of typing the process out, I strip Kato engines the same as in Brian's video ....
Now that you explain the residue, I can see the pattern of the yellow. May have been something in the yellow paint left behind that is used to make it more opaque. (?) Regardless, I would tend to think if you follow the proceedure in the video, it should take care of that as well.
Mark.
|
|
c415rock
Moderator
"Linking the East with the West"
Posts: 1,044
|
Post by c415rock on Jul 28, 2014 12:48:42 GMT -5
HI RJ,
Brian's method he shows in the Youtube video is the only way to go. I have used this method several times and it works flawless.
Good Luck with your project. I look forward to seeing that WP unit. Erik
|
|
|
Post by santafemikie on Jul 28, 2014 13:22:33 GMT -5
Hi RJ,
If the body evaporates or crumbles after it dries out, Kato still has bodies available. Where the yellow bonnet on your model was, may not smooth out well. You might try some Mr. Surfacer, it's just a bit more hefty than primer. They also make a Mr. Dissolved Putty that you paint on with a brush, it's a thick liquid. If you put on a light coat and keep the surface level, it will seek out the low spots and smooth the panel with minimal sanding.
Good luck with your build, Mike
|
|
rjm
Road Foreman
Iron Horses Forever
Posts: 92
|
Post by rjm on Jul 28, 2014 15:28:06 GMT -5
Wow just didn't use strong enough alcohol, the 70% was in the wifes greenhouse and was handy. Learned about not using brake fluid on ths brand of model! Have to repair the cab as the window frames became brittle from the rake fluid bath. So again thank you all and thank the powers that be for videos!! Never found that one of Brians on the net. Is this product any good? Polly S Plastic Prep_Preparation Cleansing Agent for Plastic Models? RJ
|
|
|
Post by Mark R. on Jul 28, 2014 16:35:03 GMT -5
If you find the shell drying out and disintegrating, you can get a replacement from Kato .... search.cartserver.com/search/search.cgi?cartid=s-1078&keywords=HONW2&maxhits=100&go=List+Parts&bool=AND&bool=ANDIf you call them, you might get lucky on an undecorated version. I got an undecorated from them a few months ago even though they are listed as not available. As for your current project, if your window frames have disintegrated, the rest won't be far behind. Inspect it carefully after a few days to a week as the plastic gasses off the remnants of the brake fluid bath. Be a shame to proceed forward only to have it break down on you and ruin your work. Mark.
|
|
|
Post by Mark R. on Jul 28, 2014 16:37:12 GMT -5
Wow just didn't use strong enough alcohol, the 70% was in the wifes greenhouse and was handy. Learned about not using brake fluid on ths brand of model! Have to repair the cab as the window frames became brittle from the rake fluid bath. So again thank you all and thank the powers that be for videos!! Never found that one of Brians on the net. Is this product any good? Polly S Plastic Prep_Preparation Cleansing Agent for Plastic Models? RJ The plastic prep is designed to eliminate any contaminates left on the shell from the mold process. A wash in alcohol will do the same thing. Mark.
|
|
rjm
Road Foreman
Iron Horses Forever
Posts: 92
|
Post by rjm on Jul 28, 2014 16:47:10 GMT -5
Thanks Mark kida figure it would be close to an alchol wash. Randy just talked to Gail at the FRRS gift shop has issue 33 on hold for me, will make a road trip tomorrow and pick it up. RJ
|
|
rjm
Road Foreman
Iron Horses Forever
Posts: 92
|
Post by rjm on Aug 1, 2014 22:25:47 GMT -5
Update: Made it to Portola, CA. got some issues of the Headlight; the folio pictures are of a stock NW2 and look to be something other than a phase 1 locomotive, darn. So the good thing just measured the stacks on #608 in person, the stack is 18” dia. X 36” tall the metal is 18 or 16 gauge sheet metal my guess has an inner pipe with some sort of ceramic or just rock insulation too hard to get at to be sure. RJ
|
|
rjm
Road Foreman
Iron Horses Forever
Posts: 92
|
Post by rjm on Aug 3, 2014 12:31:36 GMT -5
U fellows were right as usual the darn cab lost it's window frames and bottom sill, glued up some styrene. Any suggestions on where to get a cab, found athearns version-different back sill. Tried to fix with tyrene, pretty ugly work! Can get better on the sanding, will use as a example & practice shell - to get better at this hobby. Just practicing ! RJ
|
|
c415rock
Moderator
"Linking the East with the West"
Posts: 1,044
|
Post by c415rock on Aug 3, 2014 14:08:09 GMT -5
RJ,
Cannon makes P/N: 1503 Early EMD switcher cab kit.
That should fix your issue.
Erik
|
|
|
Post by Mark R. on Aug 3, 2014 16:37:46 GMT -5
Trouble is, that plastic is going to keep deteriorating. Like an old rusty car, you can keep fixing it, but it will just go bad in another spot.
Should really bite the bullet and get a whole new assembly from Kato.
Mark.
|
|
rjm
Road Foreman
Iron Horses Forever
Posts: 92
|
Post by rjm on Aug 3, 2014 21:17:04 GMT -5
Erik got one of those kits, just watching the rest of the body deteriorating so gotta chew the lead and do as every one is suggesting. Thanks Mark going to use this trashed shell for practice, so I don't screw up the new one when it gets here. Finally found the right Kato site to order a new body. Will update once I get things working in a better direction RJ
|
|
|
Post by Mark R. on Aug 3, 2014 21:30:49 GMT -5
.... Finally found the right Kato site to order a new body. .... RJ I gave you a direct link to the order page earlier ! Mark.
|
|
rjm
Road Foreman
Iron Horses Forever
Posts: 92
|
Post by rjm on Aug 4, 2014 19:03:58 GMT -5
I know now that I read back, just sometimes don't comprehend what I read, its caused bty CRS. RJ
|
|