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Post by simulatortrain on Apr 19, 2014 18:37:03 GMT -5
I have a Stewart VO1000 that I'm detailing as WM 132, currently in Hagerstown, MD. I'm trying to improve the detail a good bit over the stock model, since I've spent too much time in/around the real thing to call it good... The lettering isn't 100% prototypical, but I haven't decided yet if I am going to repaint it or not. I added rerail frogs to the frame and cut off a few pieces for sound and a ground light. That much is already weathered. Tonight I opened the top and front of the hood in preparation for "shutters" and appropriate see through coverings. I'll cut out that front pillar once I am ready to glue in the shutters.
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Post by simulatortrain on May 23, 2014 12:12:27 GMT -5
I decided to strip the paint because I didn't feel the Stewart lettering was good enough. I have the shutters glued in place. The second shot shows the walkway for over the top shutters.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on May 23, 2014 17:17:18 GMT -5
interesting take on the unit can't wait to see more
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dale
Superintendent
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Post by dale on May 25, 2014 11:15:49 GMT -5
Did you use clapboard siding for the shutters?
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Post by simulatortrain on May 25, 2014 12:40:24 GMT -5
Yes, it's clapboard. I had originally thought about building it up from individual pieces and using that for sound, but that seemed like too much work.
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Post by simulatortrain on May 26, 2014 22:12:23 GMT -5
I had some time, so I built some pilot pieces: They aren't anything too special, but I'm pretty proud of them since I have very limited styrene experience.
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Post by icghogger on May 27, 2014 8:01:47 GMT -5
Not bad, not bad at all!! You can add that to your styrene experience on your resume!!
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Post by simulatortrain on May 27, 2014 20:54:39 GMT -5
Thanks! I hope to try scratchbuilding a gondola soon from styrene, so this is definitely valuable experience for that. I'm thinking I should try something smaller first. Anyway, I first added some supports. These aren't present on the prototype, but I chose to err on the side of durability: Then I glued on the grille. I hope it won't be too hard to get paint to spray back behind there, but I don't see much of a way to complete detailing of the front unless I have the screen glued on. It's a little too flimsy to stand on its own. Now, a question for those more familiar with mixed materials: When I go to glue my strip pieces on the front of the grill, in front of my center pillars, am I better off using CA or plastic cement? I used CA to glue on the screen, naturally, since I have dissimilar materials; if I used plastic cement, would the two pieces of styrene melt somewhat and flow together, effectively locking the screen in place? As I type this, a possible best solution seems to be using CA against the screen and then flowing some plastic cement around the ends where they join the shell. Any input will be appreciated.
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Post by icghogger on May 28, 2014 8:02:40 GMT -5
Styrene cement will be the best for those styrene to styrene joints. For metal to styrene joints, I have had good success with contact cement, as well as CA. Medium to thick CA has the benefit of gap filling, but may fill the holes in your grille mesh. For better control when applying CA, I use a needle, pointy end stuck in a dowel for the handle. Cut the top off needle eye with an abrasive disc, after which, it looks like a two-tine fork. I dip the "fork" end in a drop of CA, and use it to apply a very small amount to the joint. Clean the fork with acetone or wait till the CA hardens, and scrap it off with an Xacto blade
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Post by simulatortrain on Jun 10, 2014 0:09:20 GMT -5
No shiny new pictures as of yet, just an update. I got primer on everything last week, and shot the black paint today. You'll probably next see it after decals.
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Post by Eccentric_Crank on Jun 10, 2014 1:25:35 GMT -5
Nice! This is a build to watch. I'm doing one of these as Comox Logging #7128 (8 stack calliope version). What did you use for the top grille? I'm thinking of etching the shutters like you said for sound. If it works out, I'll be doing the whole E&N/CPR fleet. I only need another 4 DS4-4-1000s.
Keep up the great work,
Dan M.
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Post by simulatortrain on Jun 10, 2014 14:39:11 GMT -5
The top is Plano etched walkway material. I used the brass, but I'm thinking the stainless might have been stronger and perhaps a better choice. I'll be interested to see your builds as they progress.
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Post by Eccentric_Crank on Jun 10, 2014 22:33:00 GMT -5
Thanks, I'll look that stuff up. I'll post when I have something to show, but it'll be a while. Too many alligators to wrestle at the moment..
Dan M.
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Post by tamaman on Jun 11, 2014 9:31:30 GMT -5
Good start!
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Post by simulatortrain on Jun 21, 2014 22:57:03 GMT -5
Alright, another small pictureless update to post. A little delayed because of vacation this past week, but that has given me more motivation to work on this. I was looking over the unit tonight making sure I had done everything I needed to do prior to a gloss coat, when I noticed the hood handrails were slightly bowed. There is nothing I hate more in this hobby than plastic spaghetti handrails. Even though I initially thought these were ok, I pulled them back off and will be buying some steam loco stanchions and using brass wire for the rails. Hopefully I can find something appropriately sized. If not, well, maybe another thing to keep me awake at night...
Actually, now that I think about it, I do have two decal questions:
I want builders plates for the unit, but I'm not aware of anybody who makes round Baldwin plates. Further complicating this is the fact that in 1944, Baldwin cast its plates from iron rather than bronze, so any existing etch or decal plates probably wouldn't work anyway. Is there anybody who does one-off custom decals who can do silver? If not, it can probably be faked on the artwork, but silver would be cool. Then again, it's tiny.
Secondly, I have a sheet of Microscale fireball decals I plan to use, however, the set does not come with the correct hood lettering. That set only has hood letteing for road engines, not smaller lettering that was used on switchers. I would like to send a sample to someone from the sheet so they can match the yellow and print me a few sets of the smaller lettering. Who do you recommend? If nobody can do silver, I will probably have them do the builders plates as well.
Sorry for the accidental long-winded post, and hopefully next time will bring some handrail shots...
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Post by Eccentric_Crank on Jun 22, 2014 10:56:00 GMT -5
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Post by simulatortrain on Jun 22, 2014 11:32:01 GMT -5
I've worked a bit with some similar material for homemade PCBs, it seemed like it was only limited by how small the printer could make a trace. I had considered trying to etch some copper builders plates and then plate them with nickel for the color, but it seemed like it would be a lot of work for such small pieces.
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dale
Superintendent
Posts: 157
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Post by dale on Jun 22, 2014 15:40:29 GMT -5
What did you use for the front grille screen?
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Post by simulatortrain on Jun 22, 2014 20:52:19 GMT -5
The front is Scale Scenics micro mesh and some small styrene stripe for the framing pieces.
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Post by Eccentric_Crank on Jun 23, 2014 12:40:23 GMT -5
I've worked a bit with some similar material for homemade PCBs, it seemed like it was only limited by how small the printer could make a trace. I had considered trying to etch some copper builders plates and then plate them with nickel for the color, but it seemed like it would be a lot of work for such small pieces. This stuff seems to be a variation of the gold leafing process, only using laserjet toner as hot-melt sizing. If you skip the rubbing/scrubbing step, it might look embossed if the toner was heavy enough. One sheet of clear decal paper should yield a lifetime supply of builders plates. You would need to paint or print the background layer colour separately. Dan M.
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