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Post by Packer on Oct 3, 2015 14:05:24 GMT -5
I'm wondering if it's possible to go the other way in this swap? put a Kato GP35 shell on a Proto GP30 drive?
My reasoning is I have a few spare proto GP30 drives, and even one with AAR trucks. I'd like to make a model of an ex-Frisco GP35, but do it as cheaply as possible. Figure if I can find a Kato Shell, it'd be cheaper than buying an entire Kato GP35.
I only managed to find one Kato GP35 in my price range, which I bought at a train show a couple of weeks ago in Dothan.
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Post by markj on Oct 13, 2015 8:16:09 GMT -5
Hello Group, I don’t post here too often, but this one caught my attentions. Although the OP is looking for advice on swapping a Kato drive for the P2K one; has anyone considered using an Athearn Genesis drive from a GP7 or GP9? If you check out the lead photo in this post – Kaslo GP9RM – it looks like the Genesis drive is similar to the P2K and the frame already has the distinctive “fish belly” frame detail, which the OP is trying to replicate on the Kato frame. Actually, weren’t most GP30s were built on (trade in?) GP7 or 9 frames? Does anyone know if the bolster spacing would have to be changed to use the Genesis frame? You need that one extra foot length for the front truck (10’ 6”) and 32’ between bolster centers. A copy of the drawing that appeared in Mainline Modeler can be found here: mylargescale.com – BN GP30 Build. Sorry for the thread drift, but if a Genesis drive will work, it might save on the build time and make the conversion easier. Thanks, Mark
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deez
Chairman
Midland Belt Railway
Posts: 949
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Post by deez on Oct 13, 2015 11:16:02 GMT -5
All GP Emd's up to (mid 65' I think) were built on fishbelly frames.
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Post by roadkill on Oct 14, 2015 20:08:01 GMT -5
Truck centers are closer on a GP7/9/18/20 vs. the GP30/35. Won't leave enough room to fit the fuel tank.
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Post by markj on Oct 16, 2015 8:56:43 GMT -5
Yes Roger, the dimensions on this - drawing - show GP7 truck centers at 31’ where as the drawing from Mainline Modeler shows the GP30 has 32’ between truck centers. One foot too short! I don’t have a Genesis frame to examine the bolster area, but I wonder if there is enough width there to drill and install new bolster pins at the correct distance. We’re talking about only 0.1378 of an inch (3.5mm). It just seems like a quicker way to get a better drive and more frame detail in one step. Again, this is off topic from the OP’s question, so I don’t want to be stealing his thunder here. Thanks, Mark
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Post by diesel on Mar 19, 2016 9:12:53 GMT -5
I put in a Genesis motor in Athearn's older standard SD40 and I'm putting one into their SD38 too. Yes, it's a bit of milling, but there is a lot more milling to do when trying to add a Mashima because you have to make room for the splines, unless you use the original hex thinner splines... damn,... I just thought of that now after all that. -kitbashing!
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