agoatsw
Probationary Member
Posts: 8
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h16-44
Jun 27, 2012 0:24:09 GMT -5
Post by agoatsw on Jun 27, 2012 0:24:09 GMT -5
I have been wanting to add more details to a h16-44 FM. I have searched internet and detail west, DA, etc. But other than the basic Mu hoses, horns, handrails. I have come up very short, I really like the blocky robust FM look, just need ideas to add to locos. Any help would be great, Thanks G
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h16-44
Jun 27, 2012 7:00:25 GMT -5
Post by stillbre on Jun 27, 2012 7:00:25 GMT -5
Are you trying to replicate a prototype or will this model be freelanced?
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agoatsw
Probationary Member
Posts: 8
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h16-44
Jun 27, 2012 9:37:12 GMT -5
Post by agoatsw on Jun 27, 2012 9:37:12 GMT -5
I will be doing a freelanced model, but I also want to see all options that are available.
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h16-44
Jun 27, 2012 10:46:03 GMT -5
Post by iomalley on Jun 27, 2012 10:46:03 GMT -5
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dtinut
Chairman
Modeling the DT&I of the 60's & 70's
Posts: 661
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Post by dtinut on Jun 27, 2012 23:29:12 GMT -5
Don't forget Atlas offered the H15/16-44 models. I have bought quite a few FM parts from them - handrails, builders plates, cabs, headlight, etc to rebuild a Bachmann H16-44. Also the Athearn FM Trainmaster has some parts on it that useable, depending in what you are building.
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Post by CP_8530 on Jul 2, 2012 22:34:18 GMT -5
I find it's easier to add parts when you're working off a prototype, or in the case of freelanced units, if you have some sort of basis of what a typical unit looked like (horn locations, winterization hatches, bells etc). Maybe work from what a demo unit looked like or such. I did up this factory painted Bachmann H16-44 a few months back with a bunch of detailed parts and modifications: new horns, new passenger diesel/water fuel tank, modified numberboards, pilot modifications, renumbering, headlights, new railings from Athearn stanchions and steel wire, and a bunch of other mods according to the prototype:
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h16-44
Jul 2, 2012 22:45:18 GMT -5
Post by Randy Earle on Jul 2, 2012 22:45:18 GMT -5
Looks great Dan!
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h16-44
Jul 3, 2012 1:04:50 GMT -5
Post by oldrail on Jul 3, 2012 1:04:50 GMT -5
That is one righteous H-16 !
Dick
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h16-44
Jul 3, 2012 7:30:57 GMT -5
Post by jmlaboda on Jul 3, 2012 7:30:57 GMT -5
That's one sweet looking FM there Dan!!! Thanks for sharing the shot!!!
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agoatsw
Probationary Member
Posts: 8
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h16-44
Jul 3, 2012 10:43:10 GMT -5
Post by agoatsw on Jul 3, 2012 10:43:10 GMT -5
WOW, Thanks dan for the photo that helps a lot. Where did you get the pilot details? I have been looking at photos on the web and dont see much in the way of different things done to H16-44. I dont find any A.C. units for the cab or radio antennas, etc.. like i do for geeps and SD units? anyone know why? Thanks G
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h16-44
Jul 3, 2012 11:43:37 GMT -5
Post by CP_8530 on Jul 3, 2012 11:43:37 GMT -5
Thanks guys. agoatsw, the pilot block under the coupler is a modified Athearn RS3 part, the footboards came with the Bachmann model, MU cables were old P2K parts, lift rings were round Kadee coupler bolster pins on their side, ladder assembly on the end was scratchbuilt from wire and styrene, and the coupler lift bars were the stock ones modified with a new center lifter. There's also an MU plug stand barely visible that was scratchbuilt using styrene, wire and some P2K GP9 MU parts.
To top it off, Kadee #5's and coupler boxes replaced the cheap metal covers and horn hooks Bachmann had on there.
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dekon
Staff Member
Posts: 634
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h16-44
Jul 3, 2012 21:49:22 GMT -5
Post by dekon on Jul 3, 2012 21:49:22 GMT -5
mrdan, that is one sweet looking FM! I am planing to do one in the Pacman scheme.
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jn4672
Probationary Member
Posts: 1
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h16-44
Mar 6, 2015 4:14:33 GMT -5
Post by jn4672 on Mar 6, 2015 4:14:33 GMT -5
I know this is an old post, but has anyone has list of parts for the Bachmann C.P. loco? Many thanks JN
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Post by simulatortrain on Mar 6, 2015 7:52:46 GMT -5
That pilot piece between the footboards would probably be a good thing for someone to put on Shapeways...
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Post by sbhunterca on Mar 6, 2015 14:58:07 GMT -5
I'll be printing the pilot for my H-10-64... should be the same part. Even if it's a little different, no problem to customize one... Is it the Atlas or Bachmann H-16-44 you are using? I have both shells, but might as well start with the right one. I could get that up by early next week. Steve Hunter www.shapeways.com/shops/Eastern_Road_Models
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h16-44
Mar 6, 2015 15:48:07 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by simulatortrain on Mar 6, 2015 15:48:07 GMT -5
Sounds good. I've built them out of styrene a few times and it isn't terrible, but printing them probably means they will come out more uniform. I don't need them for anything specific right now, but I just figured it's a useful part to offer.
On the subject of H16-44s, I always wanted to build one of the late style like the Bachmann model out of Atlas Trainmaster parts.
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h16-44
Mar 6, 2015 16:04:53 GMT -5
Post by sbhunterca on Mar 6, 2015 16:04:53 GMT -5
Cool. I'm using mostly Atlas parts on the H-10-64, but I'll measure the Bachmann shell as well.
These aren't THAT hard to scratchbuild, but they're fussy little parts and the time is better spent on fun stuff!
:-)
Steve
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fr8kar
Chairman
Little man raise the cotton, beer joints get the money
Posts: 309
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h16-44
Mar 7, 2015 9:06:41 GMT -5
Post by fr8kar on Mar 7, 2015 9:06:41 GMT -5
Steve, quick question about the printed parts: how well do they survive in the real world? I have a few parts I've made for a structure model and once I found out FD and UFD could only withstand 118°F before deforming I quickly changed materials and went with S&F nylon. 118°F and higher is easily possible in my Texas garage, which is where my models are kept. Aside from heat, how do FD and UFD materials hold up to handling, how do they take paint, etc.?
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Post by sbhunterca on Mar 7, 2015 10:40:32 GMT -5
Hi, Ryan:
That sort of heat could become an issue, although the very small parts would be less likely to deform (not as heavy, so less likely to droop if they soften). Anything below 119 degrees won't bother FUD, so for most of us it's not an issue.
These parts won't print in the strong & flexible nylon... I'd have to make the detail too coarse and the surface finish, of course, is pretty rough in s&f.
Handling isn't usually a problem- good designs avoid tall freestanding details in these somewhat brittle materials. Any breakage is most likely to happen during assembly, due to accidentally applying too much force.
I wouldn't anticipate breakage on the pilots, as they would be ACCed to the locomotive's end plate an footboards. There's a lot of structural support there, and the shape of the pilot is inherently strong.
I always clean my parts with 95-99% isopropyl alcohol, then paint them with acrylics. I've never had any adhesion troubles.
Steve
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Post by sbhunterca on Mar 7, 2015 10:42:27 GMT -5
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