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Post by tjmfishing on Mar 17, 2012 16:49:51 GMT -5
Lately, I've been adding to my GMDD fleet as my many MLW's outnumber them. I got this undecorated Kato SD40 w/ dynamic brakes in the mail from another member the other day. I'm still waiting on the steps and fans, among other things, but here's what I have so far. Eventually, it will look like this:   The brass parts are castings from Miniatures by Eric. Cab doors open on both sides, full cab interior lighted class lights and white extra flags.  If I can figure out how to wire LED's I'll light the ditchlights as well.  I stuck the wrong pilot on the rear by mistake so that'll be swapped out.  Non dynamic brake hatch from my Athearn SD40-2(W) project, cut to size. The dynamic brake hatch from this shell will be going on the SD40-2(W)  |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 17, 2012 17:07:18 GMT -5
Wow you waste no time! Looking good so far I like what you have done.
Kato units with ditch lights have cut outs in the front of the frame for the light tubes that lead up into the nose area, under the cab floor and then up to the light board. I have seen others run wires this way and I intend to do the same on a Kato unit I have
Is that DB hatch going on the SD40-2W I'm sending you or the other one you were working on?
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Post by tjmfishing on Mar 17, 2012 17:27:46 GMT -5
Yeah, this was literally four hours work I think. Considering I've been building diesels for less than 6 months, I'm happy with how they turn out. I figured I'd better post some shots for you. The dynamic brake hatch is already on the SD40-2(W) I've been working on. Thanks for the tip on the wires, I never actually checked.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 17, 2012 18:33:15 GMT -5
You might have to mill two little channels for those wires but it shouldn't be to difficult.
I have to say your talents detailing are better than mine, and I've been at it years. If I could do it that well I probably would keep doing it but as it is, if I want anything like that in future I may find somebody to do it for me.
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Post by iomalley on Mar 20, 2012 8:36:43 GMT -5
Just a sug Taylor.... You may want to remove the rear plow if you're modelling a late 70's version. SDs from that era had no rear plow or pilot plate.  It wasn't til they were starting to be painted in the stripes that they got a full pilot plate and some with a small rock plow. in the 90's + some got rear plows depending on their assignment. (IE a road switcher assignment that requires these units to back up over 1 or more crossings) |
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Post by tjmfishing on Mar 20, 2012 20:49:38 GMT -5
Just a sug Taylor.... You may want to remove the rear plow if you're modelling a late 70's version. SDs from that era had no rear plow or pilot plate. It wasn't til they were starting to be painted in the stripes that they got a full pilot plate and some with a small rock plow. in the 90's + some got rear plows depending on their assignment. (IE a road switcher assignment that requires these units to back up over 1 or more crossings) Thanks for pointing that out. As I said before I was planning on removing that plow as I grabbed the wrong one from my parts box. Would you suggest that I just take a hacksaw and file to the pilot or what? Also do you know of any photos that show that rear pilot better, struck out on CNRphotos.com too. |
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Post by iomalley on Mar 20, 2012 20:57:58 GMT -5
Sure, 5083 has no pilot plate, 5053 has a flat plate, and 5037 has a rock plow.    they were originally ordered from GMDD in the late 60's with footboards on the back, but they were removed completely, and when they started to paint them in the stripes, they either added just the plates, or with a rock plow. after 1990 i stopped researching them....  notice 5037 still has the handrail across the top of the cut levers, as if it still had footboards... also worthy of note, the "M" on the side of the cab indicated the unit had modified centre pedestal/journals to allow the centre axle on the truck more lateral movement. this was also indicated by a yellow painted journal cap. |
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Post by tjmfishing on Mar 20, 2012 21:01:07 GMT -5
Thanks, I'm only concerned with 1985 at the latest. For this one anyways, I guess I'll go with the "no plate" like the C630M's...as much as I hate the look of it. One more thing, any idea who makes those "loops" that they eventually put the ditch lights on?
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Post by iomalley on Mar 20, 2012 21:03:26 GMT -5
nobody makes one exactly like it, you need to make'm out of styrene...
MBE has something close in their CP anticlimber kit but its not thick enough.
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Post by tjmfishing on Mar 20, 2012 21:06:39 GMT -5
Alright thanks. Also realized the ditch lights are gonna have to go too as they didn't add them until the repaint too. Thanks for explaining the M as well, I was wondering about that and figured it had something to do with the yellow covers. That for poor track or something?
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Post by m636 on Mar 20, 2012 21:56:53 GMT -5
Thanks, I'm only concerned with 1985 at the latest. For this one anyways, I guess I'll go with the "no plate" like the C630M's...as much as I hate the look of it. One more thing, any idea who makes those "loops" that they eventually put the ditch lights on? Railflyer make the parts or you can use F-unit rear lift lug and modified it . |
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Post by spud7378 on Mar 21, 2012 7:47:01 GMT -5
looking good!
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Post by tamaman on Mar 21, 2012 9:20:11 GMT -5
Cool!
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Post by iomalley on Mar 21, 2012 11:42:40 GMT -5
Alright thanks. Also realized the ditch lights are gonna have to go too as they didn't add them until the repaint too. Thanks for explaining the M as well, I was wondering about that and figured it had something to do with the yellow covers. That for poor track or something? They did use ditch lights out west in the 70's so you could keep them, although they were called 'rock lights'. Not sure why the journals were modified, but IIRC my dad (who was a machinist in Mac Yd and London RH) said it allowed the centre axle to move more laterally so it wouldn't bind on sharp curves. The SD40-2Ws had them too. I think GMD adopted the practice in production so the designation was dropped. |
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Post by tjmfishing on Mar 21, 2012 14:34:04 GMT -5
Thanks all.
Eric- I think I'm just gonna scratchbuild them, shouldn't be too hard
Sean- I forgot about the rock lights, I wouldn't be surprised if they were used on the Gaspe during that time as rockslides weren't uncommon east of the tunnel in Port Daniel. I really like the look of them.
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Post by ricnok on Mar 22, 2012 8:48:54 GMT -5
Those lifting lugs are hard to scratch and look good. Been there, done that.
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Post by iomalley on Mar 22, 2012 10:11:01 GMT -5
Not really, you sandwich all 4 lift lugs together to file the shape and drill thru... been there done that!  Also Taylor, you need to revise the end handrails cuz you can't fit the lift lugs in with US style handrails and stanchion loc'n. the lift lugs go right where the stanchions are now. CDN railings have those stanchions closer to the sides... |
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Post by tjmfishing on Mar 22, 2012 13:20:30 GMT -5
Thanks Sean but those are the stock kato handrails and I just put them on for show for these photos. The long and short hood ones are fine but I was planning to scratchbuild end rails and solder them to the brass anyways. There's no way I'm gonna drill into it with those tiny bits.
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Post by iomalley on Mar 23, 2012 8:08:37 GMT -5
Try tungsten bits, they work awesome at drilling the ends of the stanchions for wire. my 5075 has kato centre stanchions with the drop step and MU box. i drilled out the stanchions and used wire for the rest. i get my drill bits from drillbitcity. i get resharpened bits which are cheaper and just fine for modeling. www.drillbitcity.com/index.htmsimply poke the centre of the handrail with a dental pick or awl and drill with the carbide bits. HSS bits tend to walk, but Tungsten bits bite. mind you Tungsten is very brittle, i wouldn't use them to go thru thick material, they will snap. and get yourself a very good pin vise that will hold the 0.125 shank. |
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Post by tjmfishing on Mar 23, 2012 20:13:03 GMT -5
But would even those tiny tungsten buts drill through a brass Miniatures by Eric anticlimber with just a pin vise?
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