GOOD-NUFF
Road Foreman
Locomotive Engineer/Conductor
Posts: 54
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Post by GOOD-NUFF on Jan 1, 2011 13:30:13 GMT -5
Something went wrong! I now have a textured silver finish! 1. I had a ceiling fan on. (Did that have an effect on it?) 2. The test section looked fine. 3. I used Scalecoat II (66/33 paint/thinner) @ 20psi with a new tip on the airbrush. To the Alcohol Bath she goes! Thanks! Bry
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Post by torikoos on Jan 1, 2011 14:28:22 GMT -5
That's what I had on my CF 7, looks like the paint dried before it reached the surface, did it rub off easily with your finger? (hope you tried before she's submerged in the bath...) A few things could have happened, too much pressure (= more velocity which means the particles will dry while flying through the air at speed). Scalecoat II works best around 15 to 20 psi I once read somewhere. I haven't used it myself, so perhaps someone can verify this? too great a distance (more distance covered = more time to dry) - too small a tip/needle on the airbrush (depending on the paint, this can cause clogging which means dry particles will fly of the tip in the paint stream) - The fan may have been of influence, but it really depends on the location of it and how it affected the airstream, personally I think that was not the case.
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GOOD-NUFF
Road Foreman
Locomotive Engineer/Conductor
Posts: 54
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Post by GOOD-NUFF on Jan 1, 2011 14:33:55 GMT -5
That's what I had on my CF 7, looks like the paint dried before it reached the surface, did it rub off easily with your finger? (hope you tried before she's submerged in the bath...) A few things could have happened, too much pressure (= more velocity which means the particles will dry while flying through the air at speed). too great a distance (more distance covered = more time to dry) - too small a tip/needle on the airbrush (depending on the paint, this can cause clogging which means dry particles will fly of the tip in the paint stream) - The fan may have been of influence, but it really depends on the location of it and how it affected the airstream, personally I think that was not the case. I think you're on to something. I might have been holding the car too far away from the airbrush. Too great of distance may have caused the paint particles to dry before they hit the car, hence causing the textured effect. I tried rubbing, but it only made it worse. I'm afraid she's going to take a bath. My fear is the rubbing alcohol will cause the detail parts to fall off. Better to start with a clean slate and try again. Thanks for the insight! Bry
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Post by santafemikie on Jan 1, 2011 15:27:57 GMT -5
Hey Bry,
I think you should try to thin Scalecoat II silver about 30/70 paint/thinner and keep you pressure around 15-20 lbs. Spray it on lightly and use a couple of coats. It dries rather quickly so stay relatively close to your work. Make sure you keep your gun clean before and after use as the silver has a very heavy pigment. The paint will need to be sealed BEFORE you decal with a clear coat. I use clear gloss with only enough thinner to get it through the air brush. I have heard that Future floor wax can be used for this also(ask Glenn Hoover). This will keep your decals from "shadowing". If you use too much thinner on new silver paint, the siver will become liquid again and be a runny mess. Don't ask how I learned that one!!! ;D
Cheers and Happy New Year! Mike
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c415rock
Moderator
"Linking the East with the West"
Posts: 1,044
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Post by c415rock on Jan 1, 2011 16:19:42 GMT -5
Bry, I mix my Scalecoat at a 50/50 mix and spray a 10 to15 psi. I am not sure the alcohol is going to work on striping the car you may need to use Scalecoat striper or break fluid. With this mix you need to spray several light coats to build up the color to a silk smooth finish.
Good luck and hope this helps Erik
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Post by torikoos on Jan 1, 2011 16:47:36 GMT -5
I tried rubbing, but it only made it worse. Thanks for the insight! Bry What I meant was that if indeed it came off easy, it would be proof that the paint was dry before it hit the surface and therefore did not bond/stick well enough. Try and hold the airbrush between 4 and 8" away, no further than that. Do a few quick tests with pressure and distance on a piece of scrap styrene or so to see what the best results are, and then try again. Good luck with the next attempt!
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GOOD-NUFF
Road Foreman
Locomotive Engineer/Conductor
Posts: 54
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Post by GOOD-NUFF on Jan 1, 2011 19:40:03 GMT -5
Hey Guys,
Thank you very much for the tips. You guys were right on the mark:
1. The paint did dry before it hit the car. I took a dry toothbrush and the dried paint came off. However, the finish still seemed slightly textured. 2. The combination of the ceiling fan on high and the fact that I was holding the airbrush 10-12 inches from the car contributed to the drying.
The alcohol bath worked wonders (about 3 hours soak time). However, it seemed to take all of the body putty off too. Now it's back to the workbench and play catch-up!
Thanks again guys, Bry
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liengineerbob
Chairman
Sitting at my workbench trying to figure out what to do next!
Posts: 335
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Post by liengineerbob on Jan 6, 2011 17:57:12 GMT -5
I have had similar problems when spraying lacquer based primer on both models and the real vehicles. as others have pointed out, you defiantly held the airbrush too far way and the paint dried before hitting the surface.
AustrailianTerrier, what color Scale Coat paint did you use on the E-Unit.....it look terrific!!
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