KSC SD40-2

Another fine job Kiro!!

very nice you would never know this was an athearn bb kit, great job. i believe it was kcs that sold a few units to cpr and cp left the same kcs paint scheme and re lettered for cp. i think

Oh yes a good ol KCS SD40-2 looks great man,GREAT job.

-Damian
Will you join the KCS side

Hey Kiro,awesome as usual but I have one question for you now...

What is your secret for the brake chain,how is it attached to the frame and truck?

No problem.

You can use a Cannon & Co. brake tensioner set. First, drill out a hole a little wider than the chain circumference you will use in the brake tensioner (I use the smallest A-Line chain). Use the modeled channel in the brake tensioner as reference. Be gently though because if not done with care, you can brake the part. Be sure that the chain goes "through" the hole drilled in the tensioner, what I do is to use an new X-Acto blade to open the channel so the chain can "flow" through the channel. To add the tensioner to the sill, what I do is insert a 19" brass rod in the sill, use a #71 drill bit or similar size to insert the rod in the sill where it is supposed to be located. Then drill the tensioner base with the same drill and the simply connect the tensioner against the sill using the rod as the base for giving it a good strenght. Otherwise the tensioner can be out of its place easily. Use CA to attach the tensioner to the sill.
For the spring..... use the smallest drill you can find. Here an 80 drill might be to big. Drill the spring all along, insert a 10" brass rod, 7 or 8mm long. Be sure to leave some rod out on both sides of the spring maybe 2mm each side. Bend one side almost like a "U" because this is where you will insert the chain that points to the brake tensioner. The other side can be left straight and will go to the brake reservoir mechanism. Glue the inserted rod to the plastic spring using CA. The plastica square mount that the spring is attached to, requires to be separated from the spring. Drill a hole through the square, from top to bottom, until you reach half of the height of the square, do not go further, using the same drill size used for the 19" brass rod. Then, drill a hole from where the spring was attached to the square mount using the same drill you used for the spring. After this has been done, drill a hole in the sill where the square mount has to be located, in this hole you will insert a 19" brass rod section. Usually, I glue first the little 19" rod to the square mount, then insert the square mount to hole in the sill and glue it with CA.
After this, slip the straight side of the spring rod through the square mount where the spring was originally attached, glue with CA. On the air reservoir mechanism where it forms an elbow, just below the square mount location, drill a small hole in the actioning device (reffer to the photo). Insert the 10" rod, usually 3 mm long, the top requires to be bended square, this is where you will attach one of the sides of the chain.
Now the chain...... I sepparate the chain in two sections, here the long of each section depends on your prefference, but let both sections long enough to allow them to be a little loose to let the truck swing freely (8 mm for each section will work fine). First insert the first section of the chain in the bended "U" coming out from the spring, this section will be the one that connects to the brake reservoir mechanism rod but do not glue it yet, one of the sides will be hanging out loose for now. Then, the second chain section, will be located from the spring to the hole did before on the brake tensioner using the "U" to hold it in place in one of the chain sides. When you accomplish these steps, glue the chain to the brake tensioner from behind of the hole to avoid the CA going in the front of the tensioner. Then glue the other side of this chain section to the rod in the spring that was bent previously as a "U".

Be aware to not glue the chain side that will inserts to the brake reservoir elbow mechanism, since you need just to leave it free to allow you to take it off whenever you need to separte the trucks, the underframe from the hood, etc.

It the KCS SD40-2, I did use the molded brake tensioner that comes in the diesel sill, just follow up the steps described.

It seems difficult, but it is not. Maybe will take you an hour or so, but when you finish, the effort is worth because is one of the "eye catch" details that will differentiate your model.

Do this after you paint your model, usually this is one of the final "touch-ups".


Please let me know if you need any further detail.

Jose

The snoot nose usually meant a locotrol equipped locomotive, and that would also be the reason for all the antennas. Locotrol was used to control mid-train helpers and showed up in the late 60's and early 70's on many railroads. It helped eliminate manned helper districts on railroads with steeper grades, and also allowed longer unit-trains without the worry of breaking knuckles due to excess train weight.

Well Kiro I have to say just like everyone else, a simply amazing job, that is a damn fine locomotive!!